Schwinn High Sierra. 1986?

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Just picked this one up. Couldn’t resist. Will get a deluxe tune up and detailing and will then be looking for a new owner.

I’m guessing 1986 based on the stamp on the rear hub.

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Dang. That seems high. Doesn’t even have the slingshot stem. I plan to clean this up thoroughly and have a little fun riding it around. Everything is for sale though. Curious if anyone has a reasonable valuation on this this?
 
The bike has a bent steerer tube. By zooming in on the above photo you can see it.

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I will get some better pictures and document my attempt to fix this. This is a bummer as the fork has mounts for the roller brakes. That’s what makes this bike special.

Otherwise, I have been very impressed with the quality of this bike. Fingers crossed.
 
It looks like they are bent forward slightly. That usually means they were bent back and corrected. To do any more bending will make them even weaker. I would take them off and check the crown for cracks if you keep them.
 
I had a factory made Monark motor bike when I was a kid, jackknifed in soft sand. My dad took it to a body shop and had it put in a press, and press it straight, road fine after, being about 16 I road the snot out f it..........Curt
 
I wouldn't trust the fork after 3 bends. wonder if the bosses on commoeplacement forks (the other kind) might work with your brakes. They look about the same size.

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If you are wondering if a fork with cantilever/v brake post would work with the cam brake, I don't think so. According to Saint Sheldon, "Roller-cam brakes do not work on cantilever studs made for conventional cantilevers, because conventional cantilever studs are mounted inward from the rim, while roller-cam studs are outward from the rim."

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-... do not,are interchangeable with roller-cams.
 
If you are wondering if a fork with cantilever/v brake post would work with the cam brake, I don't think so. According to Saint Sheldon, "Roller-cam brakes do not work on cantilever studs made for conventional cantilevers, because conventional cantilever studs are mounted inward from the rim, while roller-cam studs are outward from the rim."

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-... do not,are interchangeable with roller-cams.
Looking at the pics, the roller bosses are farther apart. I'd find an old fork with bosses and see how they lined up and possibly do some "modifying" to see how it mifght work beofre buying a new fork. There's always ebay to look for a roller brake fork also.
 
The roller cam bosses are above or outside the rim. Similar or maybe the same as u-brake. There are a few forks on eBay, but they are north of $200.

I was pretty bummed about this, but gave it the old college try. For your viewing pleasure I took a video.

The results are about as good as I could have hoped for. Now we need to debate whether this has weakened them too much.

 
How you planning to ride it ?? Rough? Jumps ? I’ve straightened many forks with no problems. That fork, even after being bent and straightened a couple times is still a stronger fork than the the black one you have pictured. As long as with top and bottom bearings in place and tightened to spec, the fork still rotates freely without any binding, even minor binding , I’d say it will work ok.
 
Finished. The bike pulls to the right when riding. I am sure the fork is somehow still bent. So the question is, does this bike have enough collectable value, that someone would want it with a damaged fork? Still OK for casual riding. Or should I salvage the parts for a clunker build. The bear trap pedals, the slingshot stem, and the wheels are great. The roller cam brakes are nice, but I wouldn't have a use for them.
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