I am finishing up a build that I started back a few months ago. I have run into a slight problem that I hope some of you have already overcome. My Phantom clone is a seven speed with front and rear brakes, I was able to find a front springer with bosses and was able to fit the cantilevers around the front fender, with proper clearance. As luck would have it the rear didn't turn out to my standards. I need to be able to apply a factory quality bend or indention on each side of the rear fender so I will have proper clearance for the rear cantilevers. How would I go about applying this modification and still have it look up to my standards, is there someone who can do this or is there a tool available to effect this repair. This is one cool project bike, one I always wanted and decided to build, I wish I could post a pic, have some really good pics in my cellphone, but not really sure how to post a pic. Also I ordered a really nice Persons springer seat with crashbar, believe it is a Permaco 7301, but the guy shipped it to me with the small seatpost clamp, I need the standard size clamp. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Schwinn Phantom clone build
- Thread starter kahoys
- Start date
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A Schwinn would use the small seat post clamp. Schwinn seat posts are 13/16" dia on the big end and are constricted down to 5/8" at the top so you need the smaller clamp.
What kind of fenders did you buy that don't have indentations? I bought repop fenders for my Phantom and they fit perfect. I think it would be hard to put the indentations in without messing up the chrome plating. I've never tried it though. Gary
What kind of fenders did you buy that don't have indentations? I bought repop fenders for my Phantom and they fit perfect. I think it would be hard to put the indentations in without messing up the chrome plating. I've never tried it though. Gary
My seatpost is not an original Phantom part, I measured the outer circumference, and its right at about 1". I built this clone on a Southport frame. Most if not all of my parts came from a guy on ebay "bicyclebones". I got right at 1200.00 invested, so I am trying to get these last two bugs worked out. My fenders had all of the indentations need except the last set for my cantilevers. I was reading an article on this site on how to install indentations and if done with great care and patience yields steller results. Still looking for the larger standard size clamp, have added my request over in the wanted section.
B607 said:
I am failing to see how this is a clone?
Maybe a sort-of-look-a-like?
But to your question, ages ago we would turn fenders off of different model Schwinn's (mostly front fenders) into spring fork fenders. We would first remove the original dimples with a hammer and dolly. Then we made a simple female die out of a block of aluminum, lots of filing to get the shape. we would then press the fender and die in a vise using different diameter steel rods for the male die. worked great. I can not remember how many girls bikes we stripped for parts and threw the frames in the trash.
Maybe a sort-of-look-a-like?
But to your question, ages ago we would turn fenders off of different model Schwinn's (mostly front fenders) into spring fork fenders. We would first remove the original dimples with a hammer and dolly. Then we made a simple female die out of a block of aluminum, lots of filing to get the shape. we would then press the fender and die in a vise using different diameter steel rods for the male die. worked great. I can not remember how many girls bikes we stripped for parts and threw the frames in the trash.
Great information, will use your method, wow this is really an informative site, with a wealth of experience and information, thanks much.
dogdart said:I use simple blocks of wood . & various tools to dimple my fenders . Not necessarily super show quality . but quite acceptable :wink:
Was contemplating, carving a wood block, then I started looking around the machine shop at work and other surounding shops.
Came across a block of aluminun shaped like a "c laying flat", it is a support for our balancing fixture. It set mind to thinking what I could come up with at hope that was the same shape. I had an old ak-47/sks front site ajustment tool that was shaped exactly the same way. I mounted it in vice with a round piece of stock to fit in the open area of the flat shaped c. Used duck tape to position the assembly in the vice and turned the vice slowly until the dimple appeared at the pre-measured deph. Man the results were stunning. Realy appreciate ur input and photos, they really set my mind to thinking. Without your ideas and photos, this may not have happened at all. And thanks much to all that responded to my how to request, you guys are a wealth of information, glad I found and tuned into this site.I can take photos with my cellphone, but thats about it, not to computer savy, thanks again, you guys rock.
Came across a block of aluminun shaped like a "c laying flat", it is a support for our balancing fixture. It set mind to thinking what I could come up with at hope that was the same shape. I had an old ak-47/sks front site ajustment tool that was shaped exactly the same way. I mounted it in vice with a round piece of stock to fit in the open area of the flat shaped c. Used duck tape to position the assembly in the vice and turned the vice slowly until the dimple appeared at the pre-measured deph. Man the results were stunning. Realy appreciate ur input and photos, they really set my mind to thinking. Without your ideas and photos, this may not have happened at all. And thanks much to all that responded to my how to request, you guys are a wealth of information, glad I found and tuned into this site.I can take photos with my cellphone, but thats about it, not to computer savy, thanks again, you guys rock.
dogdart said:I use simple blocks of wood . & various tools to dimple my fenders . Not necessarily super show quality . but quite acceptable :wink:
