Schwinn Tanked Springer

[54shadow]

I picked this baby tonight. Me, not being a Schwinn-phile, need some help on identifying this puppy. Thinking that the serial number was on the bottom of the crank, looked, nada, could be hidden under the tank on the frame?

I can still see the "Schwinn" decal ghosting under all of that blue paint on the tank. It looks like it was originally a medium to dark blue in color. As you can see, the tank has a horn button. The seat is a "Troxell," but, one of the springs has snapped in two and missing the top half.

Also, the light on the front fender is gone, but, looks to be the original fenders as they are the same blue under the baby blue paint.

Any clue as to where I can find the serial number or, someone can get the year, somewhere in the ballpark?

I'll let it sit as is for now.

 

[deorman]

Left rear dropout. http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html/

 

[peejus]

Oh.. that poor bike. . Kinda looks like a mishmash of bits.. the crank looks ganked.. shouldn't that little hole be matched up with a tab on the crank arm?
And I'm used to schwinns having a cloverleaf crank

If no serial number on the bottom bracket, check the drop outs or the neck tube..
The head badge should also have a faint julian date that will give you the actual day it was built..



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[54shadow]

Oh.. that poor bike. . Kinda looks like a mishmash of bits.. the crank looks ganked.. shouldn't that little hole be matched up with a tab on the crank arm?
And I'm used to schwinns having a cloverleaf crank

If no serial number on the bottom bracket, check the drop outs or the neck tube..
The head badge should also have a faint julian date that will give you the actual day it was built..



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That is what I am thinking.

 

[54shadow]

Left rear dropout. http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html/

I'll give it a check. It has a Komel Super coaster brake hub.

 

[54shadow]

Here is the inside of the tank, shows somewhat, the original color. Has a Komel Super coaster brake. The serial number is: K 22841.

 

[54shadow]

Left rear dropout. http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html/

Looks to be a 1953 model: K22841

 

[54shadow]

Oh.. that poor bike. . Kinda looks like a mishmash of bits.. the crank looks ganked.. shouldn't that little hole be matched up with a tab on the crank arm?
And I'm used to schwinns having a cloverleaf crank

If no serial number on the bottom bracket, check the drop outs or the neck tube..
The head badge should also have a faint julian date that will give you the actual day it was built..



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Looks to be maybe a universal set up, crank bit is in a smaller hole that other one maybe for a larger set up or is just there for looks.

 

[RustySprockets]

Potential is there. Crank ring looks like Shelby to me. Tank is the type found on the Schwinn Phantom. Feather style chainguard is commonly found on their straight-bar frames, rather than the cantilever. Good luck stripping off the rattlecan paint--you may be surprised what you find underneath.

 

[54shadow]

Potential is there. Crank ring looks like Shelby to me. Tank is the type found on the Schwinn Phantom. Feather style chainguard is commonly found on their straight-bar frames, rather than the cantilever. Good luck stripping off the rattlecan paint--you may be surprised what you find underneath.

Is there any way I can gently and gradually, remove the "rattlecan" paint job, down to the original patina?
Thanks for the comment, by the way.

 

[54shadow]

Left rear dropout. http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html/

Thanks for the link for the codes, really helped!

 

[RustySprockets]

Is there any way I can gently and gradually, remove the "rattlecan" paint job, down to the original patina?
Thanks for the comment, by the way.

This link at The CABE pretty much parrots anything I'd say about the task ahead. Results really depend on the product you're trying to remove.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/how-do-you-remove-house-paint.59456/

I haven't done this recently and some of the formulations have changed since the time when I did. Historically, cheap hastily-applied spray bombs like yours were some of the easiest to remove--alkyd enamel applied with a brush were among the worst. Color matters, too. I don't even bother trying with gloss black enamel anymore...I consider it lost.

 

[54shadow]

This link at The CABE pretty much parrots anything I'd say about the task ahead. Results really depend on the product you're trying to remove.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/how-do-you-remove-house-paint.59456/

I haven't done this recently and some of the formulations have changed since the time when I did. Historically, cheap hastily-applied spray bombs like yours were some of the easiest to remove--alkyd enamel applied with a brush were among the worst. Color matters, too. I don't even bother trying with gloss black enamel anymore...I consider it lost.

Would a Scotch Pad be too abrasive for this task?

 

[RustySprockets]

Would a Scotch Pad be too abrasive for this task?

I believe even the gentlest Scotch-Bright would scratch the original paint when it eventually reached that level. You'd also need to be especially careful around the decals and stencils--they'll wipe right off.

 

[RustySprockets]

I'm betting you discover something like THIS underneath. I can already see the feather stencils on the top bar...

 

[54shadow]

I'm betting you discover something like THIS underneath. I can already see the feather stencils on the top bar...

 

[54shadow]

I bet it will be! When I took the tank off, I notice the lighter, cream colored paint where the blue bombed paint had not touched.