Schwinn type springer clearance problem

[pick]

Replaced the stock forks on this rat bike (26" 50's JC Higgins mens bike) with a schwinn type springer. I don't have enough clearance between the tank & the curved back vertical bars on the springer. It fits, but if I were to ride in a circle it would probably take 20'. That's not gonna work. It looks really cool, but I plan on riding this one. Removing the tank would remedy the problem, but I don't want to do that. Anyone ever had this problem, & if so, how did you solve it? Any suggestions or pics would be appreciated. Novice here, so take it easy on me! :?: :!:

 

[SCHWINNRAY69]

They usually do hit the tank because not many people are doing sharp circles when they want to ride a cruiser :wink:

 

[user 135]

Old schwinn bikes had this problem. Lots of dented tanks too. I think they turned a little sharper though.

 

[pick]

This only turns about 15 or 25 degrees at the most.

 

[pick]

Here are som pics, that may help. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[stretch]

not really you can do to either part to fix it, just roll with it and be careful not to dent the tank. :|

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

It looks like, if the pivot point on fork legs was further forward it would provide more space.
This may sound crazy, maybe even dangerous, and probably shouldn't be done :wink: (is that enough of a disclaimer?) but, what if you find a seat post clamp that would fit over the portion of the fork tube where the pivot bolt passes through. Position it with the side with the seat bolt holes facing forward. Weld it on for extra safety. Then reposition the fork legs through the seat bolt holes. It would change the rake on the fork, but also provide some space.
Heck, if done well, it would almost look 'stock'.

Just a stupid idea from my 'mind lab' :mrgreen:

Cheers!
Dr. T

 

[texasbigjon]

im guessing that the headtube on the springer, is longer than your stock fork was. try taking out the extra bearing race that you are using as a spacer. then re-assemble the fork and see if it doesnt kick the front end out a little more! if it does,then have the fork threaded and cut down for a more stock look.

 

[KJV]

just let it smash the tank.
THATS HOW RATS ROLL :mrgreen:

 

[deorman]

If you space the steer tube at the crown instead of the top nut, you'll gain a little clearance. Enough to be worth doing? I dunno. It will also have a lengthening affect on the turning radius. :roll: You'll also have to shim the lower inner race (I use metallic tape :mrgreen: ) to keep it tight.

 

[deorman]

For a cool look without the hassle, fab up some truss rods for the stock fork. 8)

 

[jwm]

I'd look at maybe re mounting the tank, and shifting it back in the frame. It looks like there is enough overhang in the front that you could do it without leaving a gap. Or even if there was some gap you could find some creative way to fill it.

JWM

 

[Spincycle]

Looking at the first picture I can see that your spring bolt can be backed out about 3/8". I would only thread it in untill the end of the bolt is flush with the back of the bracket. If your spring is loose after doing that either replace it or shim it with some washers between the spring and the fork bracket. The washers will be hardly noticable in there. That will bring your main fork tubes farther away from the tank. Does that make any sense?

 

[pick]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions! I think I will try moving the tank back first. That seems like the simplest move. If that don't give me enough clearance, I will move on to the next suggestion. Thanks again!

 

[c.p.odom]

I will go out on a limb and say "It does not fit"!
But then I always liked a challenge.
First the pivot point needs to be moved forward.
Easiest solution might be an older Schwinn forged steering column turned backwards.
This would move the pivot point forward about 3/4 of an inch.
Other than that I would fabricate/modify the existing steering column, moving the pivot point forward as far as needed.
Note that the upper spring anchor will need to be moved forward the same amount.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Is that the correct tank? After looking again, it looks a little long. I like the idea of moving the bracket that mounts to the spring closer to the bearing cup. It won't provide a lot of extra room, even a little will help, right?

Cheers!
Dr. T

 

[scrumblero]

I dont see a reason you couldn't re-weld the lower mounting bolt to the front of the bottom of the steerer tube... :roll:

 

[c.p.odom]

Exactly!
Move it forward about one inch.
Get a longer spring bolt and a one inch stand-off for the upper spring anchor and you are good to go.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

That's where i was headed in my first post. I don't weld (yet), so I tend to think of bolt-on solutions.

Cheers!
Dr. T

 

[outskirtscustoms]

Personally I'd take the tank on a anvil and re-shape the front corners to give a little clearance but that's just me and may be more work than you want to go through. In other words it's a pain in the saddle.