Since I had a crossbar welded in right there, I was thinking of cutting that part off.
Scurf
- Thread starter Wildcat
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I took the board off to check where all the flex was. The welder was right, it needs more support down the sides. The next step will be to get two lengths of 3/4" tubing for each side. 36" inches of tubing welded on each side should do the trick. I'll have to buy some new, there's nothing in my scrap pile that will work. I'll use round tubing on the outside of the frame so they can also be painted like bamboo and show on either end of the board.
An easy fix for the band brake, I just added a thicker nut on the housing.
An easy fix for the band brake, I just added a thicker nut on the housing.
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The welder picked up a 20' section of 7/8ths pipe for 10 bucks. I used a tube cutter and have 13 feet left over for later use. I clamped it together and he showed up after lunch and welded it up. It must be strong enough now.
My white paint showed up today also. I mixed up a little to test on the springer fork. A little brown goes a long way, I had to add a bunch of white to get it light enough. Then yellow to get the look of bamboo. I did the base coat. It'll get another coat of that then darker paint for the bands and striations.
My white paint showed up today also. I mixed up a little to test on the springer fork. A little brown goes a long way, I had to add a bunch of white to get it light enough. Then yellow to get the look of bamboo. I did the base coat. It'll get another coat of that then darker paint for the bands and striations.
I was thinking that flatbar might be a bit weak for that span. Glad you found a solution.
Genius springer setup, BTW.
I have filed that pic away under my ‘springer ideas’ folder…
I have filed that pic away under my ‘springer ideas’ folder…
Genius springer setup, BTW.
Thanks. It can transfer from one bike to another fairly easily, as I have done a couple times already, and used different fork legs.I have filed that pic away under my ‘springer ideas’ folder…
I've got the base coat on and mixed up two shades of paint in used jars. One is brown for the rings and the other is a lighter shade, but a little darker than the base coat.
That will go on with a little plastic brush to mimic the grain of bamboo, hopefully it will be a close match. The rings will get painted on with the small brush. It should look something like this with a couple coats of clear afterward:
That will go on with a little plastic brush to mimic the grain of bamboo, hopefully it will be a close match. The rings will get painted on with the small brush. It should look something like this with a couple coats of clear afterward:
Everything was dry in an hour with the fan on, so I mocked it up. I tried the BMX handlebars and stem and like the look compared to the high bars. I have to clean up the board, it has some spatter from a paint job I did last month. The frame still has a little flex, but will work fine.
The band brake will come off so I don't have to run a brake cable and lever. Just a fender brake will keep it simple. I'm going to use a leftover piece of flat bar to strengthen the inside of the fender where it will contact the tire. The two fenders are already bolted together, but I won't use the brace that came with it. I'll use some more flat bar to make a hinged brace that will let the fender move back and forth. Then the lower front edge will get a spring attached that runs under the board to hold it away from tire. Then something added to where a foot will make contact with the fender. It seems simple enough.
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I made some cuts for the fender brake using the flat bar that I used for the drive system in the beginning. The two 9" sections go from the axle upward where they attach to the 8" section which will be folded into a U shape and face downward. The 8" section will attach to the fender at the factory grommet, it has indents made for a front fork that will work just right. The attachment of the sections won't be tightened down, they will rotate probably using a 3/8ths nut and bolt with nylon washers.
The insert at the front of the fender is where it will contact the tire. I bent it so it's raised where it makes contact. I'll drill some holes and mount it with the end hanging down slightly so the spring can attach. It's the same hole as I used previously and the spring will attach under the board to provide the action. I still don't have anything to mount on the outside of the fender to press on. There's a grommet on the fender for the rear stay on a normal bike so it will attach there.
The insert at the front of the fender is where it will contact the tire. I bent it so it's raised where it makes contact. I'll drill some holes and mount it with the end hanging down slightly so the spring can attach. It's the same hole as I used previously and the spring will attach under the board to provide the action. I still don't have anything to mount on the outside of the fender to press on. There's a grommet on the fender for the rear stay on a normal bike so it will attach there.
I finally got around to installing safety washers and locknuts to the fork.
I found some better metal for the fender brake, heavier and already drilled out. The inner and outer pieces holes line right up too. The rear braces need to be drilled out along with the cross over part. I already bent it this morning to fit the fender. Then just rounding the edges and bolting it up is left.
I checked it all for alignment and rolled around the shop to check it. Everything seems solid. The handlebars are at just the right spot. The wife even tried it and liked it.
I found some better metal for the fender brake, heavier and already drilled out. The inner and outer pieces holes line right up too. The rear braces need to be drilled out along with the cross over part. I already bent it this morning to fit the fender. Then just rounding the edges and bolting it up is left.
I checked it all for alignment and rolled around the shop to check it. Everything seems solid. The handlebars are at just the right spot. The wife even tried it and liked it.
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I just saw "Mrs. Wildcat" post up some pics of this on FB and tag you.
Awesome work on the bamboo paint. This looks like it would be a blast.
Awesome work on the bamboo paint. This looks like it would be a blast.
The rear fender brake didn't pan out. I mocked it up to have a look and realized it wouldn't work. The force of braking would push the fender down through the frame. There's no way the brace could hold that much force.
So it's back to the drawing board, but I still have the two fenders bolted together so I'll keep them, just not for brakes. I could add another fender and have it wrap around further.
I also tried it without the springer attachment to see how it held up. It has the same amount of spring in the frame. But I can add brakes to the front wheel like this. Looks better with springs though.
So it's back to the drawing board, but I still have the two fenders bolted together so I'll keep them, just not for brakes. I could add another fender and have it wrap around further.
I also tried it without the springer attachment to see how it held up. It has the same amount of spring in the frame. But I can add brakes to the front wheel like this. Looks better with springs though.
I went back to the band brake, calipers hung too low to the ground and the hole would need drilled back out anyway. The crossbar welded in went right over the brake mount hole. The shop didn't have any more 6' brake cables, I already bought them all. So I may steal one off my other build, it has two brakes and I wanted to finish this up before the end of the month. Hopefully the shop will get more cables in for my other build.
I think I have a good idea for a stand. The factory made rear stand won't work with the rear BMX forks, but I can make up a stand fairly easily. A "U" shape and two holes for the axle. The bracket on top of the fender can hold it while it's up, and the two bamboo supports under the board can provide a stop when it's down. Maybe I can cut up the factory one, it's made for a 26" bike.
I think the flex in the frame can be lessened if I mount the board differently. Instead of a horizontal brace running along the middle, separate braces across the frame at 4 spots should secure the board so it provides more rigidity. I'll use thicker metal also.
I think I have a good idea for a stand. The factory made rear stand won't work with the rear BMX forks, but I can make up a stand fairly easily. A "U" shape and two holes for the axle. The bracket on top of the fender can hold it while it's up, and the two bamboo supports under the board can provide a stop when it's down. Maybe I can cut up the factory one, it's made for a 26" bike.
I think the flex in the frame can be lessened if I mount the board differently. Instead of a horizontal brace running along the middle, separate braces across the frame at 4 spots should secure the board so it provides more rigidity. I'll use thicker metal also.
I want to do this using a rear coaster brake wheel, and apply a brake lever or cable to the sprocket (or its scalped remains) instead of a chain.
But I’m thinking that to get enough travel to engage and release the brake, I might have to use a lever multiplication scheme.
I never really thought about how many degrees you have to turn that sprocket forward & back to engage and disengage the mechanism.
Right now I’m working on the world’s cheapest no-name coaster, but internally it is the same as a Hi-stop.
It’s on a 16 inch 20 spoke wheel, and I’m thinking, ”good skurf candidate”.
But I’m thinking that to get enough travel to engage and release the brake, I might have to use a lever multiplication scheme.
I never really thought about how many degrees you have to turn that sprocket forward & back to engage and disengage the mechanism.
Right now I’m working on the world’s cheapest no-name coaster, but internally it is the same as a Hi-stop.
It’s on a 16 inch 20 spoke wheel, and I’m thinking, ”good skurf candidate”.
You can tell it’s been along time since I rode a coaster brake bike.
