Sears Scorpion aka "Stinger Ray" 🦂

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Location
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I hope to finish this build as I got in over my head the last try. Might make some slight mods but try to keep it clean and simple.
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Use these Mongoose wheels.
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That's a nice change, I really like the springer and mags!
Thanks Pondo. My brother got the bike for me a few months ago on his way thru Tennessee. Springer came from a rusty, paint peeling, pinkish, girls 26" 5 speed I bought for $25 from a guy that cleans out storage buildings. The wheels came from a Mongoose Air Assault 20" BMX bike I found on Marketplace. Just trying out thing to see what works right now.
 
And just think about it.... I could be in the air conditioned house, setting in the recliner, watching College Football. But, no, I'm finding this in the rear fender of my build bike.
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And you thought that would be all there was to it.
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⏪Dang SQUATTERS!⏩ At least they have provided the build a name (although not as original as one would hope).🦂
 
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Started cleaning the fenders and chain guard. Under front fender before.
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Under rear fender before.
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Inside chain guard before.
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I applied Naval Jelly and after 30 minutes or so scrubbed with a small brass brush. Removing this much rust required several coats of Naval Jelly and took several hours. But keep at it and it will clean up.

This is what I ended up with.
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What should I do to prevent the rust from coming back on the underside? Paint? Clear coat? Thanks in advance.
 
That turned out great!

I'm facing the same situation and plan to rub some Boiled Linseed Oil into the exposed metal to stop the rust from returning. I personally don't like using clear paint but that's just me.

BTW, I bought some wire brushes like that from Harbor Freight. They claim to be brass but a magnet proves otherwise!
 
That turned out great!

I'm facing the same situation and plan to rub some Boiled Linseed Oil into the exposed metal to stop the rust from returning. I personally don't like using clear paint but that's just me.

BTW, I bought some wire brushes like that from Harbor Freight. They claim to be brass but a magnet proves otherwise!
I got the ones I used from Harbor Freight also. They seem to work alright. With all the rust that was under there I don't think I ruined anything. Boiled Linseed Oil is a good idea to keep them from rusting again. Thanks
 
Is there any way to know what these numbers mean? 502477650 46296
502 = Sears
477650 = Sears model number. There is no correlation between this and a year.
46296 = Murray internal item number. There is no correlation between this and a year.

They made the Wildcat (Murray name) for years starting in 1966 (I believe) through the mid 70’s (again… I believe). If yours was a Murray sold bike, it would start with an MO (Murray Ohio) number. But yours is a Sears, so at least you know that much.

The only way I’ve been able to tell from non Murray numbers is through research from clues. If you look here: https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/1968-foremost-swinger.118684/
you’ll see how I figured out how one of my Eliminators was a ’68 JC Penny Foremost Swinger 3-speed. (color and clues on the frame) It may have an X25 number (JC Penny). I’ll check tonight.

My ’67 Eliminator is Murray built, I knew was a ’67 because MO7 = Murray Ohio 1967

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502 = Sears
477650 = Sears model number. There is no correlation between this and a year.
Thanks Crash for the info. From pictures I've seen this bike might be a 1968 coaster. Original color was violet or purple and the original Sears head badge was missing but I could see the outline when I removed the blue paint. It had the decal louvers on the chain guard and 3 stripes on the seat post tube. Thanks again.
 
Removed the vinyl cover someone had glued to the seat tonight. I heated the underside with a heat gun and pulled it loose first. Then the sides. Then the top. The contact cement turned loose fairly easily.
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The original covering is in surprisingly fair condition. Very sunburnt and has one split but not bad for 50+ years.
 
502 = Sears
477650 = Sears model number. There is no correlation between this and a year.
46296 = Murray internal item number. There is no correlation between this and a year.

They made the Wildcat (Murray name) for years starting in 1966 (I believe) through the mid 70’s (again… I believe). If yours was a Murray sold bike, it would start with an MO (Murray Ohio) number. But yours is a Sears, so at least you know that much.

The only way I’ve been able to tell from non Murray numbers is through research from clues. If you look here: https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/1968-foremost-swinger.118684/
you’ll see how I figured out how one of my Eliminators was a ’68 JC Penny Foremost Swinger 3-speed. (color and clues on the frame) It may have an X25 number (JC Penny). I’ll check tonight.

My ’67 Eliminator is Murray built, I knew was a ’67 because MO7 = Murray Ohio 1967

View attachment 247934


close. 502 is the Sears supplier code for Murray. There are lists of Sears suppliers (3 digit numbers) but most lists are missing the bike makers. If you have a bike that starts with 502, it was made by Murray and sold via Sears. Many of the bikes Murray supplied to Sears were also supplied to other retailers (usually with different names or colors) but not with the 502 prefix.

Wishbook has many Sears catalogs that usually include model numbers in the descriptions. Sears got their start with mail order so the numbers were essential. Many of the Sears sold bikes were 1-season models so it's possible to track down a year with the model number. Even the famous Spaceliner can be narrowed down to a 2 year period.
 
Sanded the bare metal with 320 grit. Then primed and sanded the frame and forks with 500 grit
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Sprayed the frame and forks with Dupli-Color Metalcast Silver basecoat.
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Next the frame got a couple of coats of Dupli-Color Metalcast Yellow.
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Then the frame and forks got a couple of coats of Dupli-Color Metalcast Red.
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I may give it a little more Yellow but I think it looks fair.
 

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