Sears spyder?

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The Spyder bikes are always cool. I am thinking this is a Spyder.
 

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That's got a great 2 tone paint job! The BMI sticker shows it a 71 or later bike.
Here's a 5 speed Spyder:
57d3604581a556e9e0403299a5636ca9e34845cd_r.jpg
 
A lot of it looks like dirt, but it does have some rough spots. But, for it's age, it's great!

The founder of this website, Ratrod, meticulously takes his bikes all apart and carefully cleans each part. He may have a better way than I would.

I would completely disassemble it, than give the frame and forks a scrubbing with dish soap and water with a plastic scrubber. I would watch to see that I wasn't taking the shine off by overdoing it, just enough to get the grime off. Graphics may be easy to scrub off, so i would go easy on them. For chrome that is still good, I would spray it down with WD40 and use very fine steel wool (0000) to gently break up the rust, after letting the WD40 soak in for awhile. Then, I would get some paste car wax and wax it down and buff it out a couple times to bring out the shine, again watching to see I wasn't removing any paint. Then, the little nicks and things don't look nearly as bad. And I would finish with a big bacon cheeseburger!:rofl:

There might be a better way though. I think others have clear coated their bikes to bring out the shine and preserve the finish.
 
Thanks for your advice -- I do those things.!i just tend to over do it and I was hoping somebody had a miracle product that will safely save the paint. Thanks for your help though very much -- I have becer tried wax so I will do that.
 
Thanks for your advice -- I do those things.!i just tend to over do it and I was hoping somebody had a miracle product that will safely save the paint. Thanks for your help though very much -- I have becer tried wax so I will do that.
I like to use simple green to wash em. Don't use the concentrate it leaves a film... I cut it back to like 1/3 to water.
Literally spray it on and watch grime drop off... It's very gentle as far as solvent issues... I don't go at screened graphics with anything till sealed.. the binder is cooker and gone... So it's powered pigment hanging on for dear life... Can follow with wax.


Wax is a solvent... So try build a film before working graphics or decals...
You want out on a thin coat to let haze.

Johnson's is what most art institutions will use for archival waxing of sculpture..it's not like carnival wax ur used to.

This is softtttttt.. like more like Vaseline I just leave he tin in the sun it's basically oil.
 

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