Shoestring (DONE!)
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This has never really stopped, but today they come from south of the border.
I remember renting a farmhouse here in 1980. I found that a lot of grape pickers and pruners were sleeping in the barn.
I called the sheriff, the INS, and the health department, but no one would come.
They almost burned the place down, and I had to call the fire marshal. When the fire marshall called the sheriff, he had to come.
That was a pretty sad situation but I had a wife and kids living out there. It turned out that the guy I had rented the property from had a brother who was farming close by, and he had stashed those people in the barn that I was supposedly renting.
I remember renting a farmhouse here in 1980. I found that a lot of grape pickers and pruners were sleeping in the barn.
I called the sheriff, the INS, and the health department, but no one would come.
They almost burned the place down, and I had to call the fire marshal. When the fire marshall called the sheriff, he had to come.
That was a pretty sad situation but I had a wife and kids living out there. It turned out that the guy I had rented the property from had a brother who was farming close by, and he had stashed those people in the barn that I was supposedly renting.
Okay, I've got some more (slightly-belated) progress to report. Early last Saturday morning, I checked Craigslist and Marketplace to see if there was anything good for free before I fell back asleep. Normally, I don't find anything of serious interest, but this time, a place not too far from home had A LOT of stuff they were giving away. Dad tagged along and got himself a free tall metal cabinet and a couple other things, while I was in full-on upcycling heaven! I got all the free wood, bamboo, metal, and plexiglass my Ford Focus could carry! Between what I picked up Saturday and what I've already got, I've probably got enough material for more bicycle tanks, racks and other accessories than actual bikes! If this was right when wood prices started spiking, I could've traded all of this for a flock of Elgin Bluebirds!
After expertly stacking everything pictured above inside my car, I found I still had room for more. So I got more. It's all free anyway, might as well grab everything I can carry!
One other thing happened Saturday. I still wasn't sure how I was going to take apart the Komet Super coaster brake hub on one of the wheels I want to use on Shoestring, so I took another look at a similar hub I pulled from another project I'm working on. For a lark, I started just twisting parts around by hand, and suddenly, I managed to get this Komet hub apart! It was the dumbest thing, because I had tried using my dad's vice and some other tools on this hub to get it apart, and that didn't work, yet somehow I was able to get it apart just by fiddling with it in my bare hands! Just... WHAT?!
With this unexpected discovery, I now felt like there was a chance I could use that Komet hubbed-wheel after all...
Too be continued...
After expertly stacking everything pictured above inside my car, I found I still had room for more. So I got more. It's all free anyway, might as well grab everything I can carry!
One other thing happened Saturday. I still wasn't sure how I was going to take apart the Komet Super coaster brake hub on one of the wheels I want to use on Shoestring, so I took another look at a similar hub I pulled from another project I'm working on. For a lark, I started just twisting parts around by hand, and suddenly, I managed to get this Komet hub apart! It was the dumbest thing, because I had tried using my dad's vice and some other tools on this hub to get it apart, and that didn't work, yet somehow I was able to get it apart just by fiddling with it in my bare hands! Just... WHAT?!
With this unexpected discovery, I now felt like there was a chance I could use that Komet hubbed-wheel after all...
Too be continued...
It locks up if you turn the wrong two parts.
This is so similar to the Hi-Stop I just did, but the Hi-stop doesn't have the metal band.
You have to hold the shoes on the assembly by hand as you assemble it.
This Comet is easier. A little.
This is so similar to the Hi-Stop I just did, but the Hi-stop doesn't have the metal band.
You have to hold the shoes on the assembly by hand as you assemble it.
This Comet is easier. A little.
Later on Monday, I moved all that free upcycling material into storage. I do not want to have to move all that stuff again anytime soon.
Now on to the good stuff. I took a few samples of wood with me over to my dad's shop, where he now has a functional bandsaw! Ever since he got this thing, I'd been itching to try it out. I decided to go ahead and cut out the tank insert for Shoestring using the bandsaw and belt sander to get it shaped right.
Two attempts later, and I got my tank insert! I accidentally cut off too much material on my first try, but it made the second tank insert much nicer as a result.
I also tried using the wire brush wheel to clean out the inside of the spoon that will hold the headlight in place, but I rally need one of my smaller wire brush wheels on a drill to get inside this thing better.
Next, I took apart the coaster brake hubs on the 2 rear wheels I wanted to use. The Bendix hub came apart easily enough. Perhaps a little too easily, as one of the brake shoes was snapped in half inside the hub. Fortunately, I've got donors.
Next up, the Komet Super. Some of these pictures are for assembly reference, in case I can't find the photos on my phone fast enough.
It was a fighter, but that Komet hub eventually came apart. I don't know what kind of grease was packed inside of it, but it was black as tar! Best of all, both hubs on both wheels look to be in good, usable condition. Now I just need to clean up all the internal bits, check for defects, replace whatever bearings need replacing, and reassemble them!
Here's a somewhat better look at the tank insert I made on Monday.
For the most part, it came out great, but there's a new problem. The gap in the tank that the plywood sits inside isn't dead straight with the frame.
In fact, the tank itself is just ever-so-slightly off. It's angled a little more to the left than the right, not by much, but just enough to mess with the look of the tank insert. Apparently the metal tab on the back of the tank is bent slightly, which is probably the cause of it. I could straighten it out, but then I might not be able to get the tank to sit in the frame quite right. Admittedly, it's not a big deal, just a minor detail, but I'll want to come back and tinker with it later.
One other thing I did on Monday was print out all my stickers at the local library, all four sheets for $1. That puts the remaining budget down to $19.88.
So what's next?
Well, I need to try and get the bike rideable first. I've pretty much got all the internal bits apart now, so I'll want to clean them up in my ultrasonic cleaner. I have not used one of these before, so I need to do some research to see how to use it properly before I go and mess something up. If I'm lucky, I won't need to replace any bearings. Realistically, I'll probably need to replace most if not all of them. Fortunately, I still have almost $20 to play with, so I should still be okay if I need to go out and buy new bearings.
There's still another issue I need to contend with before I reassemble the bike: I need to get all the remaining sediment, rust, and dust out of the frame. I noticed that some of that junk worked its way inside the bearings for the short time I had them on the bike. I'm debating rinsing the frame out with water, then letting it dry out before I spray the inside with rust preventative to keep more junk from forming inside the frame. I don't know of a better way to clean out the inside of the bike frame, so if anyone has any experience or advice on how to clean out the inside of a bike frame, I could really use your help.
Once I can get the frame cleaned out and the internal parts cleaned up, I'll reassemble the bike to rideable condition. After that, I can focus more on the cosmetics. (Although honestly, with the summer heat limiting the amount of time I can safely spend outside, I just might have to work on the cosmetic stuff whenever I can't do anything about the functional stuff.)
Speaking of cosmetics, I still need to try a few other ways to stain the stickers, front tire and shoestring streamers. I should be able to come up with something good soon, but I won't apply any of it until I know whether or not it will work.
That's all for now. Hopefully I'll have more progress to report by the end of the week!
Now on to the good stuff. I took a few samples of wood with me over to my dad's shop, where he now has a functional bandsaw! Ever since he got this thing, I'd been itching to try it out. I decided to go ahead and cut out the tank insert for Shoestring using the bandsaw and belt sander to get it shaped right.
Two attempts later, and I got my tank insert! I accidentally cut off too much material on my first try, but it made the second tank insert much nicer as a result.
I also tried using the wire brush wheel to clean out the inside of the spoon that will hold the headlight in place, but I rally need one of my smaller wire brush wheels on a drill to get inside this thing better.
Next, I took apart the coaster brake hubs on the 2 rear wheels I wanted to use. The Bendix hub came apart easily enough. Perhaps a little too easily, as one of the brake shoes was snapped in half inside the hub. Fortunately, I've got donors.
Next up, the Komet Super. Some of these pictures are for assembly reference, in case I can't find the photos on my phone fast enough.
It was a fighter, but that Komet hub eventually came apart. I don't know what kind of grease was packed inside of it, but it was black as tar! Best of all, both hubs on both wheels look to be in good, usable condition. Now I just need to clean up all the internal bits, check for defects, replace whatever bearings need replacing, and reassemble them!
Here's a somewhat better look at the tank insert I made on Monday.
For the most part, it came out great, but there's a new problem. The gap in the tank that the plywood sits inside isn't dead straight with the frame.
In fact, the tank itself is just ever-so-slightly off. It's angled a little more to the left than the right, not by much, but just enough to mess with the look of the tank insert. Apparently the metal tab on the back of the tank is bent slightly, which is probably the cause of it. I could straighten it out, but then I might not be able to get the tank to sit in the frame quite right. Admittedly, it's not a big deal, just a minor detail, but I'll want to come back and tinker with it later.
One other thing I did on Monday was print out all my stickers at the local library, all four sheets for $1. That puts the remaining budget down to $19.88.
So what's next?
Well, I need to try and get the bike rideable first. I've pretty much got all the internal bits apart now, so I'll want to clean them up in my ultrasonic cleaner. I have not used one of these before, so I need to do some research to see how to use it properly before I go and mess something up. If I'm lucky, I won't need to replace any bearings. Realistically, I'll probably need to replace most if not all of them. Fortunately, I still have almost $20 to play with, so I should still be okay if I need to go out and buy new bearings.
There's still another issue I need to contend with before I reassemble the bike: I need to get all the remaining sediment, rust, and dust out of the frame. I noticed that some of that junk worked its way inside the bearings for the short time I had them on the bike. I'm debating rinsing the frame out with water, then letting it dry out before I spray the inside with rust preventative to keep more junk from forming inside the frame. I don't know of a better way to clean out the inside of the bike frame, so if anyone has any experience or advice on how to clean out the inside of a bike frame, I could really use your help.
Once I can get the frame cleaned out and the internal parts cleaned up, I'll reassemble the bike to rideable condition. After that, I can focus more on the cosmetics. (Although honestly, with the summer heat limiting the amount of time I can safely spend outside, I just might have to work on the cosmetic stuff whenever I can't do anything about the functional stuff.)
Speaking of cosmetics, I still need to try a few other ways to stain the stickers, front tire and shoestring streamers. I should be able to come up with something good soon, but I won't apply any of it until I know whether or not it will work.
That's all for now. Hopefully I'll have more progress to report by the end of the week!
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That first link definitely helps. I have a decent understanding of how to rebuild other coaster brake hubs, but the Komets seem... trickier. Thanks for the help!
Hahaha! Yeah, I was wondering if anyone was going to say anything about those. I should have a few pictures of them on my computer. Let me do some digging and I'll try and share some later today.
If anything, the Komet should be easier than the hi-stop, because it has the band to hold it together during the assembly.
Internally I believe they are kissing cousins.
A lot of different coaster brakes were made with this design.
Internally I believe they are kissing cousins.
A lot of different coaster brakes were made with this design.
The only real difference between the Komet and Hi-stop Is that spring steel band which retracts the brakes. The Hi-stop has a coil spring on the axle that serves the same function.
The band pushes the brake shoes in, which pushes the cones apart.
On the Hi-stop, the coil spring pushes the cones apart, allowing the shoes to drop in.
Other than the brake shoe return spring design they operate the same.
The band pushes the brake shoes in, which pushes the cones apart.
On the Hi-stop, the coil spring pushes the cones apart, allowing the shoes to drop in.
Other than the brake shoe return spring design they operate the same.
Well, here are 3 of the trucks inside that storage building. First is my dad's 1940 Ford rat rod pickup (although how much of it is actually 1940, I don't know.) We're hoping to get it back on the road soon.
Next is a 1950 Ford truck Dad bought over 10 years ago. It needed one of everything, even then, but it did run and drive back then, albeit poorly. We're still holding onto it, since my brother wants to do something with it, after he gets his 1949 Chevy truck finished.
Next is a 1950 Chevy 3-window truck that either my dad or brother bought to be my brother's hot rod, but he ultimately built a much better truck. We can't even get the doors to open on this one!
Okay, I figured out why my tank insert wasn't sitting inside the frame correctly: it's the way the tank is designed. I cut the inset to fit inside the slot at the bottom of the tank, and the tank itself. Well, the tank inset turned out just right in that respect, but I didn't pay close enough attention to the slot in the bottom of the tank...
See what's wrong? The slot is ever-so-slightly diagonal. It leans to the left up front, and to the right at the rear, when viewed upside-down.
I thought it was because of this bent tab at the back of the tank, but it turns out that's not the problem at all. You can see below how the left side of the tank has more metal than the right side...
...And at the front of the tank, the right side has more metal than the left side. That's why the tank insert looked off to me! The tank insert insert wasn't crooked; the tank itself wasn't crooked; it was the slot in the underside of the tank that was crooked! So it looks like I'll have to either modify or replace my tank insert base. Nothing too difficult, thankfully.
Also, something else I spotted: a small hole in the right seat stay. It's not too bad I think, but I'd hate to ride this bike only to have it fall apart under me. I do not want that to happen again. So if all I need to do is weld it up, I know some folks who can help me out.
See what's wrong? The slot is ever-so-slightly diagonal. It leans to the left up front, and to the right at the rear, when viewed upside-down.
I thought it was because of this bent tab at the back of the tank, but it turns out that's not the problem at all. You can see below how the left side of the tank has more metal than the right side...
...And at the front of the tank, the right side has more metal than the left side. That's why the tank insert looked off to me! The tank insert insert wasn't crooked; the tank itself wasn't crooked; it was the slot in the underside of the tank that was crooked! So it looks like I'll have to either modify or replace my tank insert base. Nothing too difficult, thankfully.
Also, something else I spotted: a small hole in the right seat stay. It's not too bad I think, but I'd hate to ride this bike only to have it fall apart under me. I do not want that to happen again. So if all I need to do is weld it up, I know some folks who can help me out.
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I like the handlebars you scored
Thanks! They're nice and long, but they don't offer a lot of room...
Great trucks too.
I like how the tank insert is shaping up.
I like how the tank insert is shaping up.
Thank you!
Looking good. Trucks are a special treat. I really like the '40 Ford, especially the red wheels side!
Thank you! Yeah, that's my favorite side of the old '40 as well!
