Shoestring (DONE!)

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Hey, which Dust Bowl sticker design do you like better: the one on top, or the one on the bottom? At least one of these is going on the tank.
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Looking good man! It's nice when a bike starts to take shape. I really like the rims and tires you've got on this one. For the fabric maybe you need to get it into some mud to stain it? I don't know but it's not too far off now. The other pieces you've stained look great. I can't help with the hub parts, I've never rebuilt one of these. For the tank stickers I'm slightly partial to the top version. But they're both pretty good. You seem to be on the home stretch here and she's looking great!
 
Looking good man! It's nice when a bike starts to take shape. I really like the rims and tires you've got on this one. For the fabric maybe you need to get it into some mud to stain it? I don't know but it's not too far off now. The other pieces you've stained look great. I can't help with the hub parts, I've never rebuilt one of these. For the tank stickers I'm slightly partial to the top version. But they're both pretty good. You seem to be on the home stretch here and she's looking great!
Thanks Pondo! The cream tires and brown wheels are just placeholders while I get the wheels and tires I want to use ready. I want to use them on something, but I haven't found the right bike for them just yet.

Mud could work for staining the fabric, but I'm thinking a mix of coffee and paint could really do the trick. I could still sprinkle a little dirt on it though! Thanks! I'm doing what I can to get this bike done on time.
 
Okay, I had a few things slow me down today (photo and video shoot at my dad's shop, selling a bike, and just giving the dog I'm looking after some attention,) but I did make a little progress today. I messed with paint for the first time in... a while, and painted some fauxtina on the edges of my bottom bracket bearing cups. Aside from getting a little paint inside the cups, I'm very happy with the results! I can clean up the mistakes with a wire brush or some steel wool easily enough.
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I also touched up my head badge sticker design, so I'll print that off again one more time tomorrow before I stain it and apply it to the bike.

I won't go over all my plans for tomorrow since half of what I intend to do seldom gets done, so instead I'll just try to report what progress I have made by the end of the day tomorrow.
 
That looks great! If they were just off to the side in a pic with no clues or explanation I would think the patina was real, not Memorex. (fair enough, old add reference. Like '70s old. "Is it live or is it Memorex?" Memorex made recording equipment including 8 tracks and cassettes in addition to electronics. My mom met my (step)dad when they both worked there in 1971).
 
That looks great! If they were just off to the side in a pic with no clues or explanation I would think the patina was real, not Memorex. (fair enough, old add reference. Like '70s old. "Is it live or is it Memorex?" Memorex made recording equipment including 8 tracks and cassettes in addition to electronics. My mom met my (step)dad when they both worked there in 1971).
Thank you! Yeah, that Memorex reference is before my time. Still, cool story on how your folks met!
 
I don't see much difference between the two dust bowls except for the dust pattern above the bowl. I guess the bottom one may look a little better.
 
Okay, it's been a bit more hectic than I anticipated, but I've made some more progress on Shoestring. Once again, I'll list everything I've accomplished so far, but I'll share a few photos afterwards.

1. Made one last tweak to my head badge sticker, and got 2 copies printed at the library for $0.50.
2. Finished staining stickers.
3. Applied fixative to stickers for extra protection.
4. Applied stickers to tank, chain guard and frame.
5. Figured out how to build headlight.
6. Gathered additional hardware for headlight. $5.99 after tax. (At this point, I may be going over my $50 budget, but only just. I don't care at this point, I just want to get this bike done.)
7. Installed bearing cups. Previous technique using all-thread, nuts and washers worked better this time around.
8. Fauxtina'd bottom bracket parts.
9. Cleaned up rear sprockets with wire wheel attachment on grinder.
10. Not quite related, but picked up 5 free vintage bikes from Marketplace. 1 would make a nice project; the rest make great parts packs.

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Side note: is there supposed to be this much of a gap between the top bearing cup and the top crown race or whatever it's called? I have everything just tight enough to avoid play, but there's about a 2mm gap between these parts.
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Also, I still haven't heard anyone say anything about the Komet coaster brake parts yet. Really need some advice on that pretty quickly if I'm going to get this bike done in time.

I was hoping to have the crank assembly installed tonight, but I can take care of that in the morning after I take care of the pets. I'll try to update as much as I can, but with only about 2 weeks left to go, I'm more concerned about getting this bike done than shooting/sharing progress photos. I'll do what I can.
 
That headset install doesn't look right. The gap between the cone and cup should be somewhere around 1/16".

With cleaning the hard grease out of the bearing races I use a round toothpick to flick it out, overnight soak in penetrating oil to soften it up, a mild acidic mixture in the ultrasonic tank (vinegar, Simple Green, citrus cleaners, whatever is on hand). Usually gets them nice & clean.

I think I have a Komet hub or two in my stash. I'll look in the morning and help you out however you need.
 
I didn't find the hubs I thought I had. I don't think I would use a powered wire brush to clean them, there is the risk of rounding over knurled or ribbed edges. I have some brushes that look like a toothbrush with metal bristles I use for chores like this. I get mine from NAPA.

I did find a thread on rebuilding Komet Supers right here on Rat Rod Bikes from 2010. Click this link.
 
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That headset install doesn't look right. The gap between the cone and cup should be somewhere around 1/16".

With cleaning the hard grease out of the bearing races I use a round toothpick to flick it out, overnight soak in penetrating oil to soften it up, a mild acidic mixture in the ultrasonic tank (vinegar, Simple Green, citrus cleaners, whatever is on hand). Usually gets them nice & clean.

I think I have a Komet hub or two in my stash. I'll look in the morning and help you out however you need.
I agree. I think the cone might be too wide, so it doesn't sit down further like it needs too. Fortunately, I have a bunch of these parts, so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. And if the replacement is too shiny, I already have a solution for that!;)

Sounds good. I've got some PB Blaster on hand i could soak them with. I've been using Simple Green and distilled water to clean everything so far. The tricky part is that one part of the coaster brake hub that the bearing is stuck on. It's tough to get inside that one with a toothpick, but maybe the PB Blaster soak will help.
I didn't find the hubs I thought I had. I don't think I would use a powered wire brush to clean them, there is the risk of rounding over knurled or ribbed edges. I have some brushes that look like a toothbrush with metal bristles I use for chores like this. I get mine from NAPA.

I did find a thread from on rebuilding Komet Supers right here on Rat Rod Bikes from 2011. Click this link.
I've got some steel and brass hand brushes I could use to clean up everything. Should I be concerned about whatever wear marks are on the parts, or do they just need a good scrubbing with the brush and they'll be fine to reinstall?

I saw that thread before. Honestly, it's not much help to a novice like me, especially with a number of photos missing in the replies. I need a more thorough tutorial that discusses everything, from how to take certain components apart, to how much grease to apply and where to apply it. Best guide I found was in an old Schwinn service manual posted on The C.A.B.E., and even that left me with some questions, especially on identifying wear and tear.
 
I agree. I think the cone might be too wide, so it doesn't sit down further like it needs too. Fortunately, I have a bunch of these parts, so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. And if the replacement is too shiny, I already have a solution for that!;)

Sounds good. I've got some PB Blaster on hand i could soak them with. I've been using Simple Green and distilled water to clean everything so far. The tricky part is that one part of the coaster brake hub that the bearing is stuck on. It's tough to get inside that one with a toothpick, but maybe the PB Blaster soak will help.

I've got some steel and brass hand brushes I could use to clean up everything. Should I be concerned about whatever wear marks are on the parts, or do they just need a good scrubbing with the brush and they'll be fine to reinstall?

I saw that thread before. Honestly, it's not much help to a novice like me, especially with a number of photos missing in the replies. I need a more thorough tutorial that discusses everything, from how to take certain components apart, to how much grease to apply and where to apply it. Best guide I found was in an old Schwinn service manual posted on The C.A.B.E., and even that left me with some questions, especially on identifying wear and tear.
The wear is evident so pick your best pieces and roll with it; that is just a fact of life when dealing with vintage parts most of the time.. As to grease, pack the bearings and races well. Use a thin grease coating on the outside of the brake shoes and the inside diameter of the hub. Adjustment is usually done on the reaction arm side after assembly. I'd say just start rolling with the rebuild and post questions and photos as you go, lots of builders here to chime in if you get stalled.

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The wear is evident so pick your best pieces and roll with it; that is just a fact of life when dealing with vintage parts most of the time.. As to grease, pack the bearings and races well. Use a thin grease coating on the outside of the brake shoes and the inside diameter of the hub. Adjustment is usually done on the reaction arm side after assembly. I'd say just start rolling with the rebuild and post questions and photos as you go, lots of builders here to chime in if you get stalled.

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Sounds like a plan! Thanks Couch Tater!
 
Okay, today took a bit longer to get started than anticipated, but I did manage to get my bottom bracket installed. I think I'm getting better at installing parts with bearings! The crank turns smoothly and freely, but it doesn't wobble or jiggle from being too loose. The pedals are the only parts that make any sound.


I threw on the chain guard to see how it looked, and it's starting to look like a bike once more!
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I'm getting really excited here. The list of things left to do is getting pretty short. Not sure what I'll do next, but as long as I keep making progress, that's good enough for me.
 
Most excellent rust bucket rat. Very well done man. Love the aging of everything.
Bravo!
 

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