Hey, which Dust Bowl sticker design do you like better: the one on top, or the one on the bottom? At least one of these is going on the tank.
Thanks Pondo! The cream tires and brown wheels are just placeholders while I get the wheels and tires I want to use ready. I want to use them on something, but I haven't found the right bike for them just yet.Looking good man! It's nice when a bike starts to take shape. I really like the rims and tires you've got on this one. For the fabric maybe you need to get it into some mud to stain it? I don't know but it's not too far off now. The other pieces you've stained look great. I can't help with the hub parts, I've never rebuilt one of these. For the tank stickers I'm slightly partial to the top version. But they're both pretty good. You seem to be on the home stretch here and she's looking great!
Thank you! Yeah, that Memorex reference is before my time. Still, cool story on how your folks met!That looks great! If they were just off to the side in a pic with no clues or explanation I would think the patina was real, not Memorex. (fair enough, old add reference. Like '70s old. "Is it live or is it Memorex?" Memorex made recording equipment including 8 tracks and cassettes in addition to electronics. My mom met my (step)dad when they both worked there in 1971).
That's the only difference. I'm going to go with the bottom one. Thanks!I don't see much difference between the two dust bowls except for the dust pattern above the bowl. I guess the bottom one may look a little better.
I agree. I think the cone might be too wide, so it doesn't sit down further like it needs too. Fortunately, I have a bunch of these parts, so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. And if the replacement is too shiny, I already have a solution for that!That headset install doesn't look right. The gap between the cone and cup should be somewhere around 1/16".
With cleaning the hard grease out of the bearing races I use a round toothpick to flick it out, overnight soak in penetrating oil to soften it up, a mild acidic mixture in the ultrasonic tank (vinegar, Simple Green, citrus cleaners, whatever is on hand). Usually gets them nice & clean.
I think I have a Komet hub or two in my stash. I'll look in the morning and help you out however you need.
I've got some steel and brass hand brushes I could use to clean up everything. Should I be concerned about whatever wear marks are on the parts, or do they just need a good scrubbing with the brush and they'll be fine to reinstall?I didn't find the hubs I thought I had. I don't think I would use a powered wire brush to clean them, there is the risk of rounding over knurled or ribbed edges. I have some brushes that look like a toothbrush with metal bristles I use for chores like this. I get mine from NAPA.
I did find a thread from on rebuilding Komet Supers right here on Rat Rod Bikes from 2011. Click this link.
The wear is evident so pick your best pieces and roll with it; that is just a fact of life when dealing with vintage parts most of the time.. As to grease, pack the bearings and races well. Use a thin grease coating on the outside of the brake shoes and the inside diameter of the hub. Adjustment is usually done on the reaction arm side after assembly. I'd say just start rolling with the rebuild and post questions and photos as you go, lots of builders here to chime in if you get stalled.I agree. I think the cone might be too wide, so it doesn't sit down further like it needs too. Fortunately, I have a bunch of these parts, so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. And if the replacement is too shiny, I already have a solution for that!
Sounds good. I've got some PB Blaster on hand i could soak them with. I've been using Simple Green and distilled water to clean everything so far. The tricky part is that one part of the coaster brake hub that the bearing is stuck on. It's tough to get inside that one with a toothpick, but maybe the PB Blaster soak will help.
I've got some steel and brass hand brushes I could use to clean up everything. Should I be concerned about whatever wear marks are on the parts, or do they just need a good scrubbing with the brush and they'll be fine to reinstall?
I saw that thread before. Honestly, it's not much help to a novice like me, especially with a number of photos missing in the replies. I need a more thorough tutorial that discusses everything, from how to take certain components apart, to how much grease to apply and where to apply it. Best guide I found was in an old Schwinn service manual posted on The C.A.B.E., and even that left me with some questions, especially on identifying wear and tear.
Sounds like a plan! Thanks Couch Tater!The wear is evident so pick your best pieces and roll with it; that is just a fact of life when dealing with vintage parts most of the time.. As to grease, pack the bearings and races well. Use a thin grease coating on the outside of the brake shoes and the inside diameter of the hub. Adjustment is usually done on the reaction arm side after assembly. I'd say just start rolling with the rebuild and post questions and photos as you go, lots of builders here to chime in if you get stalled.
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Thanks Pondo! Will do!Looking good! I really like how your decals came out. The overall style of the bike is fantastic, keep it going!
Thank you Kingfish! It's been a ton of fun figuring out how to make everything I've added to the bike look older than it is!Most excellent rust bucket rat. Very well done man. Love the aging of everything.
Bravo!
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