*Silent Assassin* - Rear Fender Added
- Thread starter laidbackcool
- Start date
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Re-configuring the rear springs and trusses in hopes of a much cleaner, more uniformed appearance...a few kinks to iron out but like what it's evolving into so far...
I decided to flip the truss rods underneath the seat stays... also flipped the spring bumper cups upside down and at the base of the fork hoop. Added a couple of copper-plated bell hangers at the top of the spring stays. Threw some washers underneath and on top of the truss fork brackets, all of which are mounted to a clamp that hugs the seat post The rear suspension is faux and implemented for looks, but it's a look that I like much better nonetheless.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
https://www.flickr.com/people//
After reviewing placement of the truss rods being mounted inside of the rear drop outs, I realized that it would interfere with the flow of the chainline (once installed). As a result, the truss rods were remounted on the outside of drop outs. Also ditched the copper bell hangers because it didn't flow aesthetically and for functional purposes.
I like the refinements. It cleans things up a bit around the seatpost.
Keep on building buddy!
Keep on building buddy!
Thanks King!
Mounted the tail light to the rear fender last night...probably the easiest install during the entire build and will post photos later today. Now, I can shift my focus to the stem, handlebars, and the drive train. Speaking of handlebars, I've been struggling back and forth on what look I should go for and will compliment the bike sitting as low to the ground as it does. In earlier parts of the thread, I mentioned that I was initially leaning toward going with ones below, which I've seen on a build by texasbigjon who by the way builds incredible looking bikes!
On eBay, I just stumbled across these Wald stamped handlebars...never seen any with dimples in them before...
...and I'm also looking at a set of pullbacks made for an actual Japanese chopper.
Any thoughts
or suggestions are welcome 
I kinda like the Japanese chopper bars. They remind me of the ones that @deven_science is using on Tractorliner
I happen to agree. Love the bars on Tractorliner and it certainly doesn't hurt that they've been placed on a very cool looking bike
!!! Option #1 does not have the vertical rise that will give low-sitting bike more visual depth. Option #2 although with dimples is a typical looking ape hanger that you see on lowriders or schwinn krates. The Japanese chopper bars have enough vertical rise for visual depth and enough pullback to compliment the long lines of the frame. However, I wish the down tubes had a little more curvature or bend to them. I've also been looking at the Harley Davidson ones below (which might even be the exact same bars) that I'm starting to grow fond of... 
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I like the dimpled bars, because there is so much detail and things to Stare at on you're bike, It would flow right up the handle bars..... The lowrider and shwine bars a a lot narrow'er, the dimple bars are wide like old school chopper bars. Awsome bike by the way....
You my good friend also make a very valid point and I think the dimpled bars provide a certain level of ol' skool edginess to the bike. Thanks for the kind words.I like the dimpled bars, because there is so much detail and things to Stare at on you're bike, It would flow right up the handle bars..... The lowrider and shwine bars a a lot narrow'er, the dimple bars are wide like old school chopper bars. Awsome bike by the way....
Last night, I asked my wife to check out the photos of the handlebars and tell me which ones she liked the most. It so happens that she was partial to the Japanese chopper bars as well. I'll decide soon but for now will focus on acquiring more hardware for the bottom bracket.I like the dimpled bars, because there is so much detail and things to Stare at on you're bike, It would flow right up the handle bars..... The lowrider and shwine bars a a lot narrow'er, the dimple bars are wide like old school chopper bars. Awsome bike by the way....
Here are a few boring and uneventful updates:
1. Rear Springs & Trusses
mounted the ends of the truss brackets to the springs and used large washers to keep the steer tube hole of the truss brackets fastened securely when mounted to the truss rods. Don't know why it took me so long to think of this configuration, but it's one that I'm very happy with.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
1. Rear Springs & Trusses
mounted the ends of the truss brackets to the springs and used large washers to keep the steer tube hole of the truss brackets fastened securely when mounted to the truss rods. Don't know why it took me so long to think of this configuration, but it's one that I'm very happy with.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
2. Tail light (lens not attached)
The paint eventually will be removed to bare metal. I couldn't ask for the light to be mounted at a better location on the fender.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
The paint eventually will be removed to bare metal. I couldn't ask for the light to be mounted at a better location on the fender.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
3. Saddle/seat
It's fair to say that I tweaked the layout of the undercarriage to reflect the straight lines in the frame. The removal of the seat springs gives more attention and emphasis to the rear springs and trusses. The seat post clamp was flipped upside, which allows the seat when mounted to sit level and also closer to the top tube.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
It's fair to say that I tweaked the layout of the undercarriage to reflect the straight lines in the frame. The removal of the seat springs gives more attention and emphasis to the rear springs and trusses. The seat post clamp was flipped upside, which allows the seat when mounted to sit level and also closer to the top tube.
https://www.flickr.com/people//
4. Bottom Bracket & Crank
Out with old....
And in with the new...
140mm crank arm with a 40-tooth sprocket
Just ordered a bottom bracket yesterday and will be anticipating it's arrival sometime later this week. Still have to get pedals, a chain tensioner (or two), a stem, and handlebars. I also believe I have a handle on how I want to remedy the chainline issue...I'm determined and ready to finish building this bike and take it for a test ride. More to come!!!
Out with old....
And in with the new...
140mm crank arm with a 40-tooth sprocket
Just ordered a bottom bracket yesterday and will be anticipating it's arrival sometime later this week. Still have to get pedals, a chain tensioner (or two), a stem, and handlebars. I also believe I have a handle on how I want to remedy the chainline issue...I'm determined and ready to finish building this bike and take it for a test ride. More to come!!!
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The Renaissance Man
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Man, there's so much going on that I haven't checked in here lately, but wow, this is really looking good!
Thanks Renaissance Man!
The bottom bracket arrived earlier today and was installed along with the crank arms. Added an old chain I had lying in the garage to get a feel for the chain line....
The bottom bracket arrived earlier today and was installed along with the crank arms. Added an old chain I had lying in the garage to get a feel for the chain line....
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Wow! Those cranks are short!
Luke.
Luke.
A few days ago, I bought a pulley from Lowe's to use as my chain tensioner. I removed the wheel from the steel body...took a small piece of innertube and placed it onto the middle section of the wheel to serve as a strip between it and the chain. I then attached the wheel to a bracket that subsequently was mounted to a hole on the lower dropout extension. Turned out to be the perfect place to hide the wheel, and it ensures that the lower section of the chain will clear the chain stay very easily.
The tensioner is extremely close to the spokes but has just enough clearance to roll without rubbing against the rear wheel. I'll most likely put something in place to mount the top bracket hole to the seat stay in order to keep it stable in one location.
Before....
After...
The chainline was the biggest obstacle I had to overcome on this build, and I cannot be any happier with the results. Until I'm able to secure a stem, handlebars, and pedals, there's really nothing left for me to work on from a functionality standpoint to get the bike ready for a test ride. Once I reach that stage and determine that I'm satisfied with the bike's performance, then I'll be looking to strip the frame to bare metal and paint the hub caps on the rear wheel matte black to match the rim. I'm very pleased with how the build has come together and I sense the finish line is near
!
The tensioner is extremely close to the spokes but has just enough clearance to roll without rubbing against the rear wheel. I'll most likely put something in place to mount the top bracket hole to the seat stay in order to keep it stable in one location.
Before....
After...
The chainline was the biggest obstacle I had to overcome on this build, and I cannot be any happier with the results. Until I'm able to secure a stem, handlebars, and pedals, there's really nothing left for me to work on from a functionality standpoint to get the bike ready for a test ride. Once I reach that stage and determine that I'm satisfied with the bike's performance, then I'll be looking to strip the frame to bare metal and paint the hub caps on the rear wheel matte black to match the rim. I'm very pleased with how the build has come together and I sense the finish line is near
!
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Nice work LBC! Looking forward to seeing this one finished!
Luke.
Luke.
