-
If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to RatRodBikes and give back.
You can become a Supporting Member which comes with a decal or just click here to donate.
SOLD Silver King M-1 frame and fork
- Thread starter zephyrblau
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Can't wait to see the Top Fueller Drag Forks on it.
LOL @Kingfish! I will put a set on it to show you though. My thoughts on it are polished frame. New Monark chrome forks. Belt drive system. I have some cool 24 inch RWL tires I want to use. Not sure on the rims yet. Long spring seat and short rise apes like a Manta Ray has. No fenders
So a 1930s bike meets 1960s tires meets 2017 drive line...lol
So a 1930s bike meets 1960s tires meets 2017 drive line...lol
I think they would look awesome on an SK.
I like your plans for this one. I picked up a belt drive bike from CL for the same purpose. The thing with belt drives and these SK frames is the have a longer drivetrain, and the only belts that are long enough are the Gates CDX belts which cost more. Have fun man! Nice score.
I like your plans for this one. I picked up a belt drive bike from CL for the same purpose. The thing with belt drives and these SK frames is the have a longer drivetrain, and the only belts that are long enough are the Gates CDX belts which cost more. Have fun man! Nice score.
I looked at the Gates belt systems. Not really sure how to measure the whole system or what size sprockets to use. Do the wheel sprockets fit any hub or are the hubs made for the belt Sprocket?
Where do I find a key for the lock?
Where do I find a key for the lock?
There is a Gates Carbon Belt Drive app that is pretty cool for you phone to get all the right gearing and measurements.
The cogs are available for different hub styles.
The cogs are available for different hub styles.
I would go to a locksmith and have one made. Shouldn't cost more then 40 bucks I think.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Got my Silverking today! Very happy with it. I need a few questions answered. My head badge holes are on the sides. Does this mean it is a 1936? The seat post tube where it goes into the BB has groves. I assume to hold it in the BB. The seat post tube comes all the way to the top of the frame where the seat post goes in. Do you think it could be pushed back down or leave it alone? Anyone have a seat Post?
9.2 pounds for the frame and fork.
my apologies for just seeing this now. i don't think I got the usual notification. so I'll answer as many questions as I can.
guessing '36 based on the low serial number. it's definitely not a '35. not sure about head badge mounting scenarios.
remove the lock & take it to a locksmith is my suggestion.
I would leave the seat tube 'as is'. not sure what's going on w/ the knurling but I really don't think there's anything wrong. there is an internal expansion device that keeps the ends of all tubes secure where they enter a casting.
I've made seat posts in the past. not the "7" style, but I suppose that could be done if you wanted to sacrifice one.
all you need is a hollow seat post, cut the bottom off @ an angle that matches one from a stem, install a long bolt & viola!
HTH
happy to answer any other questions if I can.
guessing '36 based on the low serial number. it's definitely not a '35. not sure about head badge mounting scenarios.
remove the lock & take it to a locksmith is my suggestion.
I would leave the seat tube 'as is'. not sure what's going on w/ the knurling but I really don't think there's anything wrong. there is an internal expansion device that keeps the ends of all tubes secure where they enter a casting.
I've made seat posts in the past. not the "7" style, but I suppose that could be done if you wanted to sacrifice one.
all you need is a hollow seat post, cut the bottom off @ an angle that matches one from a stem, install a long bolt & viola!
HTH
happy to answer any other questions if I can.
