Finally got this thing working. It's a Minn Kota 35 lbs thrust trolling motor on a 2001 Walden Odyssey. The original controller is a resistance switching 5-speed. I wanted something that allowed a fine throttle control throughout its range (and is more efficient), so I replaced the stock controller with a pulse width modulator.
The PWM is inside this black box (with added heat sink sticking out). It is bolted to the bulkhead inside the storage compartment next to the battery. The throttle is controlled by a bar end shifter pulling a cable that pulls the arm on the big gear. The big gear turns the small gear, which is attached to the PWM potentiometer shaft at a ratio of about 3:1. The springs on the other side of the arm pull the throttle back to neutral. Somehow, I got the balance of spring tension correct first shot.
Prior to hitting the PWM, the + lead from the battery goes to the 50A breaker and battery cut off switch in the cockpit. You can see the step-down pulleys that allows the cable for retracting the motor to pass under the seat. I also had to make that bit of frame work for the control handle that retracts the motor.
Kayak with motor deployed.
Here, the control handle is in the up position, retracting the motor. The control is the original transom mount repurposed with a couple pulleys added and a cut off section of the motor shaft for the handle. The throttle handle is on the left outside the cockpit. On the inside behind the throttle (not shown), is a forward-neutral-reverse switch that goes back to the PWM. The rope cam lock in front of the coaming is for a little added retraction for the motor that gains a few extra inches by pulling down on a pulley that the control cable passes through just forward of the rudder/motor.
Motor in retracted position. The kayak cart also comes apart to fit inside the compartment. The motor turns using the original foot-pedal rudder system. I could cut the rudder down a little, but if I use that upper hole, it takes less effort (though I get less retraction), which might be useful if I let my nephews or nieces use it as the control stick probably needs a little too much effort for a kid.
The PWM is inside this black box (with added heat sink sticking out). It is bolted to the bulkhead inside the storage compartment next to the battery. The throttle is controlled by a bar end shifter pulling a cable that pulls the arm on the big gear. The big gear turns the small gear, which is attached to the PWM potentiometer shaft at a ratio of about 3:1. The springs on the other side of the arm pull the throttle back to neutral. Somehow, I got the balance of spring tension correct first shot.
Prior to hitting the PWM, the + lead from the battery goes to the 50A breaker and battery cut off switch in the cockpit. You can see the step-down pulleys that allows the cable for retracting the motor to pass under the seat. I also had to make that bit of frame work for the control handle that retracts the motor.
Kayak with motor deployed.
Here, the control handle is in the up position, retracting the motor. The control is the original transom mount repurposed with a couple pulleys added and a cut off section of the motor shaft for the handle. The throttle handle is on the left outside the cockpit. On the inside behind the throttle (not shown), is a forward-neutral-reverse switch that goes back to the PWM. The rope cam lock in front of the coaming is for a little added retraction for the motor that gains a few extra inches by pulling down on a pulley that the control cable passes through just forward of the rudder/motor.
Motor in retracted position. The kayak cart also comes apart to fit inside the compartment. The motor turns using the original foot-pedal rudder system. I could cut the rudder down a little, but if I use that upper hole, it takes less effort (though I get less retraction), which might be useful if I let my nephews or nieces use it as the control stick probably needs a little too much effort for a kid.
