Slow cooked burrito
- Thread starter feuerdog
- Start date
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Blarg! I finally found some time this week to touch the bike.
1. It has a base coat of brown primer on it now.
2. I'm changing the handlebars to some very tall ape hangers, and I had to change the stem to fit those bars.
3. I'm changing the seat to something a bit wider and more comfortable.
4. I've started scuffing down the wheels to prep for paint, i'm thinking black and tan.
5. I think I might add some more "decorative" bad welds to the frame to amplify "the look".
6. I had to buy a few new chains since the old one was seized up so bad.
I hope to have more progress shots soon, maybe next week.
1. It has a base coat of brown primer on it now.
2. I'm changing the handlebars to some very tall ape hangers, and I had to change the stem to fit those bars.
3. I'm changing the seat to something a bit wider and more comfortable.
4. I've started scuffing down the wheels to prep for paint, i'm thinking black and tan.
5. I think I might add some more "decorative" bad welds to the frame to amplify "the look".
6. I had to buy a few new chains since the old one was seized up so bad.
I hope to have more progress shots soon, maybe next week.
Hi feuerdog, You are doing a good job and I love burritos. My two Lincolns on your future welding projects... I am by no means an expert in anything but I have found that using a better quality smaller wire gauge like .025 on thin metal and tube works better because it takes less heat with less diameter than larger wire. I did not have very good luck with the low budget wire from Harbor Frieght. You can get .025 Lincoln wire at Home Depot at a fair price. I also like to stitch the weld in opposite spots instead of trying to make a constant puddle while letting the weld cool for a second before pulling the trigger again. If you burn through let the weld cool again for a second or so and aim the wire at the welded area of the hole and pump the trigger in short pumps letting cool in between to fill the hole. Always aim at the welded spot where more material has been built up. You may also want to use a smaller diameter sleeve tube inside the finish tube at the butt welds for strenght. I like to set my temp as high as possible as my wire speed so I get a good penetration without distorsion or warpage. Listen for that frying sizzling bacon sound. As mentioned before by another member it is absolutely criticle to prep and clean for a good solid nice looking weld. Also as you upgrade your equipment your welding will get better. I currently use a 220 volt Lincoln 180 with a Co2/Argon mix sheilding gas. It may help to use a can of spatter sheild to spray on the metal and dip your nozzel in a jar of spatter sheild. It helps keep the dingleberries at a minimum and clean up easy. Get both at your local welding supplier. Maybe all this will help, Oh yeah, practice and more practice. Slow cooking is always better! Best wishes.
Nice, I appreciate the tips.
I still have a ton of the current wire to use, so i'm gonna stick with that for now.
You're right of course about the cleaning and prep work too,....my impatience made things more difficult when I didn't take the time to do things better and slower.
I'll have to look for the anti-spatter stuff you mentioned, thats new to me. I just learned about weld-through primer this past weekend too. I'm learning new stuff about welding all the time.
This build has my first weld-based modding though, so i'm actually gonna use my spatter as an artistic touch this time around.
I need to tack weld more, up my amps, and prep better. A few more adjustments and some practice and I should be doin better soon.
Thanks again
I still have a ton of the current wire to use, so i'm gonna stick with that for now.
You're right of course about the cleaning and prep work too,....my impatience made things more difficult when I didn't take the time to do things better and slower.
I'll have to look for the anti-spatter stuff you mentioned, thats new to me. I just learned about weld-through primer this past weekend too. I'm learning new stuff about welding all the time.
This build has my first weld-based modding though, so i'm actually gonna use my spatter as an artistic touch this time around.
I need to tack weld more, up my amps, and prep better. A few more adjustments and some practice and I should be doin better soon.
Thanks again
I made some good progress on the bike on saturday,....and had a strange turn of style direction too.
The wheels are painted, the frame is painted(for the most part), and the new style has inspired a new name.
Problem - A really bad area of rust corrosion on the rear wheel has revealed holes in the rim after sanding and prep work.
I attempted to weld fill the holes, and was successful for the most part, but after grinding everything back down smooth i'm having second thoughts as to the durability of the repair. I may have to replace the wheel.
Solution - The new style change really favors a typical 26" knobby tire as opposed to the older steel Schwinn 18 speed wheel. I don't remember which "S" wheel size it is right now. So, since I have a set of 26" rim brakes mtb wheels not being used, I think i'm going to use those instead.
The only parts I have to worry about now are.....
1. Ensuring the rear cog set is compatible with the older components.
2. Fitting the the older brakes to the smaller and wider 26" mtb wheels.
3. Hoping the mtb knobby tires clear the frame, but this shouldn't be a problem at all.
4. At 1.5" of current ride clearance, I hope the smaller 26" wheels have enough height to get the frame off the ground.
The rest of the details, and some pics should be sorted this coming week.....
1. Paint the brakes and other components.
2. Fir the newer mtb wheels and tires.
3. Fit new cables, the chain, and adjust everything.
4. Take pics and post them here.
The wheels are painted, the frame is painted(for the most part), and the new style has inspired a new name.
Problem - A really bad area of rust corrosion on the rear wheel has revealed holes in the rim after sanding and prep work.
I attempted to weld fill the holes, and was successful for the most part, but after grinding everything back down smooth i'm having second thoughts as to the durability of the repair. I may have to replace the wheel.
Solution - The new style change really favors a typical 26" knobby tire as opposed to the older steel Schwinn 18 speed wheel. I don't remember which "S" wheel size it is right now. So, since I have a set of 26" rim brakes mtb wheels not being used, I think i'm going to use those instead.
The only parts I have to worry about now are.....
1. Ensuring the rear cog set is compatible with the older components.
2. Fitting the the older brakes to the smaller and wider 26" mtb wheels.
3. Hoping the mtb knobby tires clear the frame, but this shouldn't be a problem at all.
4. At 1.5" of current ride clearance, I hope the smaller 26" wheels have enough height to get the frame off the ground.
The rest of the details, and some pics should be sorted this coming week.....
1. Paint the brakes and other components.
2. Fir the newer mtb wheels and tires.
3. Fit new cables, the chain, and adjust everything.
4. Take pics and post them here.
