Small hones... for seat tubes

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

yoothgeye

I build stuff.
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
8,257
Reaction score
2,029
Location
Roanoke Rapids, NC
Rating - 100%
5   0   0
Just wondering if anyone has seen any small hones or made something to help clean bad welds or rust out of a seat tube. I remember one member buying a drill bit to drill out an old seat post, and though that would do what I'm asking about, it could too easily get out of hand.

I've just noticed that some frames I am working with have a bad weld in the seat tube that makes the seat post stick.
 
Due to the cost I always use a die grinder, carbide burr, be real careful, grind away only enough weld for the post to pass.

A hone will pretty much follows in shape that's given to it, meaning your hole won't be perfectly round, or true.
a drill will likely oblique or oblong the hole. besides how big a drill will you need to turn a 7/8 drill bit or larger, Plus who is going to hold it? :)
 
I have used a wheel cylinder hone to clean up the inside of a seat tube. If it's not too bad I have also used red scotchbrite and a piece of heavy wire, like a coat hanger. Bend the wire in half around the scotchbrite and twist it a few times then chuck it in the drill.
 
For rust use a long drill bit with steel wool on the end and a liberal dose of wd40 or such. Use enough steel wool to have a tight fit. Works well on wheel chairs when we need it to.
 
A cheap alternative can be made by duct taping and wrapping a length of emory cloth or other fabric based sandpaper (pieces of an old belt sander belt) to a length of 3/8 or 1/2 tube. Chuck it up in a drill motor and use it as you would a hone. Do pay attention to the wrap direction and the rotation of your drill.

Gizmo
 
Yeah, not something to completely change the seat tube, but just make it a smoother fit. Some bikes I come across have a seat post that almost feels stuck, and once I get it out I see that the factory weld is the culprit, not impossibly stuck, but something I'd like to smooth out a little and usually far enough down that it's hard to work with.
 
I make flap hones similar to Gizmo's method, but with a slot cut in the rod to hold the sandpaper. A hone like this will allow you to apply substantial pressure on the problem spot.

DSC01571.jpg
 
I like that idea, and if you backed it with a stiff but flexible piece of plastic (like cut from the top of a plastic tote) it might work more evenly.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top