I have a question for anyone. I have developed a interest in fixing bikes/trikes now (having seen what bike repair shops charge for basic work). I was looking at my sister-in-law's trike and it is missing a few spokes on all 3 of the wheels and on looking they pulled out of the rims leaving larger holes. Is it possible to patch a rim so you can just replace the spokes or do you need to replace the rims? Looking forward to any advice you give. Lin
Spokes pulled out thru rim
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Can a custom washer be used for the spoke nipple so it won't pull through?
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Yes you can use a washer, it will lessen the amount of threads in the nipple itself but it should be fine. You could order spokes a few MM longer. I would suggest Stainless washers and the size would be as small a washer that the nipple will fit through. I have seen specific bike washers perhaps they have a slight curve to them.
They do make nipple washers. It might be helpful to see a picture or two of the problem.
I agree some pics are needed. As more than one rim had spokes pull through, it could be rust or was the wrong size parts when new. The rims are probably unusable unless they were made for larger spoke nipples. Then the hubs need to match up to that same size spoke.
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Steel rim? It usually leaves a small volcano shape. I have used a ball peen hammer to close up the pulled out spoke nipple holes. Work around the protruding edges until it is flush with the rest of the rim. Works pretty well.
Aluminum rims? It's shot, replace it. Cracks or pulled out sections, it's ruined.
Some brands/models of trikes have thicker spokes (and larger nipples). 0.108" spokes for example vs .080" for regular bikes. They are often stronger than the rim. They usually pull through in some sort of accident where you have a lot of sudden force. Not via a super slow mo action. A crash or someone stepping on the wheel or dropping some large heavy object, a pedal from another bike hitting hard.
If you use washers, brass washers are softer and will bend to fit in the rim.
Aluminum rims? It's shot, replace it. Cracks or pulled out sections, it's ruined.
Some brands/models of trikes have thicker spokes (and larger nipples). 0.108" spokes for example vs .080" for regular bikes. They are often stronger than the rim. They usually pull through in some sort of accident where you have a lot of sudden force. Not via a super slow mo action. A crash or someone stepping on the wheel or dropping some large heavy object, a pedal from another bike hitting hard.
If you use washers, brass washers are softer and will bend to fit in the rim.
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Wow. That looks like a real challenge to me. If you use a washer you will need a longer spoke. And re lacing a hub still attached to the trike sounds like a nightmare to me. I would suggest figuring out how to remove the hub and lacing it with all new spokes and new rim. If you are going through that much effort it would be silly to use damaged spokes and a damaged rim. The hub is probably fine, but I suggest all new spokes and rims.
The front wheel has this same problem? Maybe the whole trike is very cheaply made.
Maybe find a good used one for her instead, this might be one of those projects that just gets to be more work as it goes along.
Maybe find a good used one for her instead, this might be one of those projects that just gets to be more work as it goes along.
Yes. Very curious what caused this. Maybe an extremely heavy load, but hard to imagine that would cause all three wheels have the same issue.
I recognise that model of rim. It is very light, even for aluminum. And not strong at all. OEM on some cheap bsos. Obviously the spokes are much stronger than the rim. It's not that hard to replace just the rim. The beginner method is to tape the new rim to the old and move the spokes over 1 at a time. you will need to match the size (24? or 26?) and the spoke hole count. Another brand of similar style can work with the existing spokes. There is some fudging on spoke length. As long as you don't use some deep dish aero rim or change between steel and aluminum.
That sort of damage is from a big impact. Like dropping a sledge hammer on the bike. Not from regular riding stress unless someone jambs a big stick into the wheel. I've seen it often at the local bike coop.
Stick in the wheel makes sense.
My concern is the other thread on this trike suggests rebuilding the wheel with the hub still attached to the trike. I’m not saying that is impossible, but sounds close to impossible. How would you true the wheel? Just by spoke tension? I don’t know. Could you even lace it while attached? If t was me, I would try to get the hub removed before anything else. Certainly before investing any money.
Disclaimer. I have never even touched a trike. I am not speaking from experience.
My concern is the other thread on this trike suggests rebuilding the wheel with the hub still attached to the trike. I’m not saying that is impossible, but sounds close to impossible. How would you true the wheel? Just by spoke tension? I don’t know. Could you even lace it while attached? If t was me, I would try to get the hub removed before anything else. Certainly before investing any money.
Disclaimer. I have never even touched a trike. I am not speaking from experience.
Post a photo of the whole trike if you can.
Removing the rear wheels from a trike is pretty easy unless it's solid rust ( I had one like that). Most trike rear wheels don't have axles in the wheels. The main axles are attached to the frame. There is usually a nut or bolt holding the wheel on depending on the brand. Most trikes are 1 wheel drive so the two rear hubs are different. One will just slide on and turn freely on the axle or the axle will turn freely in the frame. The drive side hub will be keyed to the axle. Some use a small square key like a lawn mower blade. Some of the newer box mart Schwinns have a washer welded in to the hub that lines up with flats on the axle. Those will strip out pretty easy so it's important to keep the wheel on tight and not ride it if it gets loose.
How true the rear wheels need to be depends on what kind of brakes are on the back wheels. Many trikes have a coaster brake in the drive train and no rim brakes so those don't have to be perfect. All the old Chicago Schwinn Town and Country Tri -Wheelers had coaster brakes (1 or 3 speed). It's pretty rare to see a classic upright trike with rim brakes on the rear wheels. I've seen some that have a band brake on the rear axle.
The front wheel on most trikes is pretty normal. Some have drum brakes, most use a typical rim caliper brake.
Another beginner method of changing rims is to tape the spokes where they cross so they will hold their position. Remove all the nipples and rim. Then reverse the process. That can work on a trike wheel still on the axle.
Trying to fit a trike rear wheel in a truing stand means you need a temporary axle to fit in the stand. You can use a couple of automotive jack stands to hold the trike up and true the wheels on the trike. Most classic up right trikes can't handle high speeds so perfectly true wheels aren't critical.
Removing the rear wheels from a trike is pretty easy unless it's solid rust ( I had one like that). Most trike rear wheels don't have axles in the wheels. The main axles are attached to the frame. There is usually a nut or bolt holding the wheel on depending on the brand. Most trikes are 1 wheel drive so the two rear hubs are different. One will just slide on and turn freely on the axle or the axle will turn freely in the frame. The drive side hub will be keyed to the axle. Some use a small square key like a lawn mower blade. Some of the newer box mart Schwinns have a washer welded in to the hub that lines up with flats on the axle. Those will strip out pretty easy so it's important to keep the wheel on tight and not ride it if it gets loose.
How true the rear wheels need to be depends on what kind of brakes are on the back wheels. Many trikes have a coaster brake in the drive train and no rim brakes so those don't have to be perfect. All the old Chicago Schwinn Town and Country Tri -Wheelers had coaster brakes (1 or 3 speed). It's pretty rare to see a classic upright trike with rim brakes on the rear wheels. I've seen some that have a band brake on the rear axle.
The front wheel on most trikes is pretty normal. Some have drum brakes, most use a typical rim caliper brake.
Another beginner method of changing rims is to tape the spokes where they cross so they will hold their position. Remove all the nipples and rim. Then reverse the process. That can work on a trike wheel still on the axle.
Trying to fit a trike rear wheel in a truing stand means you need a temporary axle to fit in the stand. You can use a couple of automotive jack stands to hold the trike up and true the wheels on the trike. Most classic up right trikes can't handle high speeds so perfectly true wheels aren't critical.
Sorry took so long to get the picture of my sister-in-law's bike. It's temporarily been my storage area for rims and tyres 
. Found no identifying maker marks so suspect it's Chinese manufacturer. I have to replace the pedals. It also has both a hand brake and brakes operated by just back wheeling. I just want it safe for her to use and i personally am worried about the safety of wheels missing spokes. Lin
. Found no identifying maker marks so suspect it's Chinese manufacturer. I have to replace the pedals. It also has both a hand brake and brakes operated by just back wheeling. I just want it safe for her to use and i personally am worried about the safety of wheels missing spokes. Lin
