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Mr. Farrell

Mr. Farrell

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has anybody used one of these chinese made springers? i know you get what ya pay for but considering it's half the price of others it might be worth it. sales are final though, so i gotta be sure this will work.

give me all the feedback ya got. i was thinking of ordering from choppers us tomorrow for the one day sale, need to sort out my options.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGRAY-SPRING...ltDomain_0?hash=item5635e7e10a#ht_3888wt_1032
 
i've brought a few. truthfully i've never had a real one so i don't know if they're any better. the cheap ones worked well enough for me.

chopper us is having a sale? i haven't seen any details on it.
 
I have one that I got second(third)hand. It's usable, but with a couple of issues. Whether you get a good one or bad one, it's pretty limited as to what size steer head it can be fit to, although a long one CAN be adapted with some effort. A very tiny difference may require you to bend the upper mount, so as to be able to properly tighten the head bearings. Mine has some quality issues, as well. When disassembled, it has to go back exactly the same as it was because it's not exactly the same on both sides. If you swap a leg or turn the head tube around, it cocks the wheel to one side. The head tube is pretty thin, so at some point the handle bar stem distorted the tube enough that the lower bearing race can only be removed/installed by bending or drifting with a hammer, and the upper bearing race gets tough to turn. With all that said, it does reduce wrist shock, doesn't effect steering adversely, and looks pretty cool. (p.s. the old timers with the cast pivot are DEFINITELY better.)
 
Just be sure to lube all the pivot points, Chinese stuff tends to be dry!
 
JoKeR63 said:
Just be sure to lube all the pivot points, Chinese stuff tends to be dry!
Click to expand...
thats what she said :oops:
 
thanx for the info guys. i hate it when parts dont fit easily, so ill probably go with the chopper us version. i got some b-day money so it wont hurt my wallet to spend a little extra.

the murray i have has an extra long head tube, so i gotta be able to return it if it doesnt work.

hey doerman, the pivot point is the "T" at the bottom of the steer tube right? im guessing on the chinese models, its a separate piece, making it more fragile.


and yes... choppers us is having a one day sale today (march 1st). everything is 30% off.
 
i've purchased a few of these in the past. my lbs carries them. (cheap chinese springers)
even with a hand full to choose from, 2 of 3 have had a mean lean to one side or the other.
i think the jigs they use to make these are about as crooked as the eye sight of the welders.
 
new development... choppers us says the sterr tube on their sprinr is 7" long and the threaded section is only 2.75". the head tube on my murray is 5" at most. i dont know if thats gonna fit.

the support guy said that 5" head tube was short compared to others. does that sound right? anybody got any specs on average head tube size... or comon sizes for other cruisers?
 
you should be in the realm of possibility. though it will require a little creative thinking.
is that an upside down bearing race i see? (wink wink, nudge nudge) :)
IMG_2910.jpg

my head tube is actually just shy of 5" without the bearings.
 
it says on the ebay link that it has 9.25" center tube length. is that standard?? what should be the regular length for 5" headtube??
 
The pivot point on the springer I have is welded to the steer tube. It's not perfectly straight and has very little contact surface, and the legs are just punched through, no inner bushing. :|
 
Mr. Farrell said:
si if i flip the upper bearing race, what do the bearings actually end up running against?

sorry for bein so needy. im just curious.
Click to expand...

i used 2 bearing race. the first normally, and then a second as a spacer. (upside down)
IMG_2912.jpg

pretty much did the same as the vid with one modification.
grind the threads from the first race so it will pass beyond the threads of the fork tube. the second upside down race, is threaded.
you could cut a spacer like in the vid, but i think you'll find that top nut will like to work itself loose when riding.

having the second race thread onto the fork tube instead of a spacer, will help prevent this from happening.
 

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