Still plugging away Crankarm restore

[41DX]

So ,I am still plugging away on my Klunker build and changing things as I go. Picked up some late 70's Campy Pista 175 mm crankarms (the Shimano 600's I have are 170's,a little too short and not quite the era I was looking for).
They Pista's don't look bad (minor scratches and a few slight places where the annodization has worn thin), but I want to make these old cranks shine. searching the web it sounds like the way to guss these up is to douse them in oven cleaner for a few minutes to remove the annodization, followed by soap and water. Sand the scratches away with progressivly finer sandpaper followed by a good buffing on the wheel.
Doing this would destroy the original annodized look which I am not too worried about as long as they look good and stay shiny when done. Has anyone done this before?
Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this?
Pretty brief in my description of process because I am not that fast of a typist, but am I missing anything?
Other suggestions?

Thanks for your input,
T

 

[Rat Rod]

I removed the anodizing on a Pro Neck stem a few months back.

I used Drain-O crystals in a big bucket with some water. I wore a heavy shirt, safety goggles and some heavy duty rubber gloves. I dipped the stem down in the Drain-O mix and let it soak for a minute or two. I then pulled it out and dropped it into a bucket filled with water and baking soda to neutralize the reaction. The stem got really hot in the bucket of Drain-O. I also had to use some steel wool on the stem to get the extra ano off after I pulled it out of the Drain-O mix. The ano turns black when it comes off.

After I gave it a final rinse with some soap and water I buffed the stem out on my bench grinder's buffing wheel. Turned out pretty nice.

BEFORE

AFTER

 

[41DX]

Wow,
Thats what I am looking for.
Being from the habbit of if a little is good alot is better, can you clue me in on specifics before I melt my new to me cranks?
roughly how much drano/baking powder per gallon of water did you use?
That stem looks awesome.
Thanks,
T

 

[Rat Rod]

Here's the write up I did on the process a while back...


It went like this for me...if you plan to do it it's at your own risk because the Drain-O is some nasty poisonous stuff.

1. Get two buckets of water.
2. Have a few rags handy and some 0000 steel wool.
3. Put on some safety glasses, long pants and shirt, face mask, & thick rubber kitchen gloves
4. In one bucket pour in some of the Drain-O crystals
5. In the other bucket pour in some baking soda with the water.
6. Dip the anodized parts into the Drain-O bucket and pull them out every 20 seconds or so.
7. Parts will start turning black and you can rub off the anodizing with the steel wool.
8. Parts will start to get hot from the chemical process.
9. Once the anodizing is all off, dip the parts into the baking soda bucket to neutralize the process.
10. I then dipped the parts in some soapy water and cleaned them really well.
11. After they dried I polished them on my bench grinder using a RYOBI buffing wheel.

I'm not responsible if you choose to do this and have issues. It's just what I tried and it worked for me.

 

[Rat Rod]

I don't think I had any exact measurements.

I was pretty conservative I know that much...I hate dealing with chemicals.

 

[41DX]

I think I will have a go.
Thanks for the great tips.
I agree, as I do this in my head the only thing I can't figure out is what to do with the bucket of drano when finished. Not sure I want to send it to the septic system..

 

[B607]

I don't think I had any exact measurements.

I was pretty conservative I know that much...I hate dealing with chemicals.

Uh Oh! :shock: Rat Rod, it sounds like you need educated before you go messin' with those chemicals. :roll: Drano has a pH of 13...it is very "basic". (opposite of acidic, also called alkaline) The pH scale only goes to 0-14. So at pH13, Drano kicks butt. I think you must have assumed Drano was acidic to use baking soda to attempt to "neutralize" it. You should have used vinegar (weakly acid) to do this, not baking soda, which is also basic. (alkaline) Oh well...live and learn. Better living through chemistry. :mrgreen: B607

 

[Rat Rod]

Yeah...I'm no chemist..I was just following someone else's steps on the BMX forum.

It seemed to work regardless of the wrong chemicals.

Maybe it was just the soap and water that did the trick.

As I said, I was pretty conservative on the quantity I used...probably way less than what is recommended.

 

[41DX]

Thanks for the information. I will stop off and get some drano on the way home from work today. Monday while everyone else is at work, I will have a go.

I will be sure to take a before and after picture.
T

 

[Hay Burner]

So ,I am still plugging away on my Klunker build and changing things as I go. Picked up some late 70's Campy Pista 175 mm crankarms (the Shimano 600's I have are 170's,a little too short and not quite the era I was looking for).
They Pista's don't look bad (minor scratches and a few slight places where the annodization has worn thin), but I want to make these old cranks shine. searching the web it sounds like the way to guss these up is to douse them in oven cleaner for a few minutes to remove the annodization, followed by soap and water. Sand the scratches away with progressivly finer sandpaper followed by a good buffing on the wheel.
Doing this would destroy the original annodized look which I am not too worried about as long as they look good and stay shiny when done. Has anyone done this before?
Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this?
Pretty brief in my description of process because I am not that fast of a typist, but am I missing anything?
Other suggestions?

Thanks for your input,
T

I have had the same results using Greased Lightning degreaser. Just let the part soak in it for a few minutes and it will come right off then polish.

 

[dos cruiser]

I prefer to use a very fine wire wheel and then buff it to a shine.