I also have these which don’t match. I was going to order one more, and put the oddest one on the bike.
Sting-Gray
- Thread starter Ulu
- Start date
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This is part of the mechanism from a reclining chair.
I drilled out the rivets to recover these shaped bars.
These are going to wind up as seat reinforcement and support.
I drilled out the rivets to recover these shaped bars.
These are going to wind up as seat reinforcement and support.
Trimming and re-shaping accomplished.
I brush finished these on a wire wheel.
Shaped and drilled.
They need a little relief grind to sit flush.
Assembled, with stainless screws and a chrome carriage bolt.
They need a little relief grind to sit flush.
Assembled, with stainless screws and a chrome carriage bolt.
A little work with the grinder and a rat tail file makes the reflief.
I did the cutting grinding and burnishing outside today.
However, once I got up to 100 Fahrenheit I went into the garage. No bike vice in the garage, but it has air-conditioning and lots of insulation.
However, once I got up to 100 Fahrenheit I went into the garage. No bike vice in the garage, but it has air-conditioning and lots of insulation.
Well this project got its first ride today.
The seat is solid and substantial and the bike has a shifter that will work fifth sixth and seventh gear. I need to repad the seat.
It seems to steer OK, it is light, fast and sporty. It will do a wheelie.
It still has no brakes and I stopped by doing a dramatic power slide in my driveway.
This is an under the seat shot. You can see that I could not tighten the 3rd nut until I made that relief cut in the bracket.
When I reassembled this I used the large delrin washers inside and outside of the seat, to protect the upholstery fabric.
The seat is solid and substantial and the bike has a shifter that will work fifth sixth and seventh gear. I need to repad the seat.
It seems to steer OK, it is light, fast and sporty. It will do a wheelie.
It still has no brakes and I stopped by doing a dramatic power slide in my driveway.
This is an under the seat shot. You can see that I could not tighten the 3rd nut until I made that relief cut in the bracket.
When I reassembled this I used the large delrin washers inside and outside of the seat, to protect the upholstery fabric.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Cool little bracket. Very resourceful
Ditto
Thanks gents.
It sure helps to hoard junk for 50 yea . . . Ummm. . . I mean it sure helps to have a large pile of resources to choose from.
But, then, you all know that.
Those brackets were pretty easy, but I still need to build the brakes. I have been dinking around with the shifter lever and cables until almost midnight, I am pretty well toast. Toast . . . Hmmm . . . I think I’ll have a nitecap.
yah…just a dash of scotch and ice: for the toast. BRB…
Hmmm . . . So here’s to the Rats!
It sure helps to hoard junk for 50 yea . . . Ummm. . . I mean it sure helps to have a large pile of resources to choose from.
But, then, you all know that.
Those brackets were pretty easy, but I still need to build the brakes. I have been dinking around with the shifter lever and cables until almost midnight, I am pretty well toast. Toast . . . Hmmm . . . I think I’ll have a nitecap.
yah…just a dash of scotch and ice: for the toast. BRB…
Hmmm . . . So here’s to the Rats!
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Customizing the brakes…
These still need more work. Levers are not welded yet.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
That is insano in the braino! I keep wanting to add this stuff to the Highlights thread, too bad it is not in the Build Off. Have you done this before with v brakes? Extremely curious to hear how it works
Oh no this is all original.
I’ve never even considered such a thing before. We’ll see how it works out leverage wise. I think it will be able to lock up this 20.
Back when I was a teenager and we were welding together funky bicycles, one guy built the champion wheelie bike.
He had a 20 inch wheel in the back and a 26 in the front. That’s kind of what I was thinking when I put this together.
I’m surprised at how well it goes, but I’m not going to put another mile on it until it has brakes.
I have two of these little devils. They are just the right size to fit under the stingray seat.
I’m thinking this will make a perfect tail light and license plate mount. This was attached to some steel I picked up off the street.
I’ve never even considered such a thing before. We’ll see how it works out leverage wise. I think it will be able to lock up this 20.
Back when I was a teenager and we were welding together funky bicycles, one guy built the champion wheelie bike.
He had a 20 inch wheel in the back and a 26 in the front. That’s kind of what I was thinking when I put this together.
I’m surprised at how well it goes, but I’m not going to put another mile on it until it has brakes.
I have two of these little devils. They are just the right size to fit under the stingray seat.
I’m thinking this will make a perfect tail light and license plate mount. This was attached to some steel I picked up off the street.
More photographs from post-midnight mechanical madness….
I decided that functionally and visually my brake arrangement was going to look much better if I reversed the lower levers.
Unfortunately I had a lot of problems shaping the return springs, and I eventually got them to work. But they don’t match from left to right so it looks odd.
Third time is the charm!
X marks he spot.
These are not welded yet.
Overhang on the brake pads and the eccentricity of the lower lever are both reduced, which is a structural boom.
Compare this to my previous view of this device. It is visually far superior as well, (except for the ugly return springs.)
Antique tail light lens may be on the bike soon.
I decided that functionally and visually my brake arrangement was going to look much better if I reversed the lower levers.
Unfortunately I had a lot of problems shaping the return springs, and I eventually got them to work. But they don’t match from left to right so it looks odd.
Third time is the charm!
X marks he spot.
These are not welded yet.
Overhang on the brake pads and the eccentricity of the lower lever are both reduced, which is a structural boom.
Compare this to my previous view of this device. It is visually far superior as well, (except for the ugly return springs.)
Antique tail light lens may be on the bike soon.
I had to make clearance holes for the screwheads.
Since these have to bypass I put some offset in one arm.
There was more grinding forming drilling relieving sanding hammering filing and wire brushing. Before I weld these I will have to decide whether the simitars point up or out.
I don’t think it’s going to make any difference in the leverage but there’s a little difference in the clearance.
Here, you can see the offset clearly.
I think we’re almost ready to weld once I scrape off the last remnants of black paint.
Since these have to bypass I put some offset in one arm.
There was more grinding forming drilling relieving sanding hammering filing and wire brushing. Before I weld these I will have to decide whether the simitars point up or out.
I don’t think it’s going to make any difference in the leverage but there’s a little difference in the clearance.
Here, you can see the offset clearly.
I think we’re almost ready to weld once I scrape off the last remnants of black paint.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
I haven’t worked everything out yet, but if I point them up I might use a … ummm … portable 90°brake noodle.
That would make it into a side pull.
But if I point them out, then I think I should use a Y cable.
This means using the abominable factory brake noodle until I come up with something better. But it is there and it will work for now.
My photographs might be a little bit misleading because, in the photographs where they are installed on the bike with the scimitars pointing up, I am holding the brakes close against the wheel. They are pointing quite a bit up and this would be the fully engaged position.
In the photograph where they point out I didn’t show that.
<edit>
When I mounted the scimitars pointing out and checked the distance between the eyes in the retracted position, they are almost identical.
That would make it into a side pull.
But if I point them out, then I think I should use a Y cable.
This means using the abominable factory brake noodle until I come up with something better. But it is there and it will work for now.
My photographs might be a little bit misleading because, in the photographs where they are installed on the bike with the scimitars pointing up, I am holding the brakes close against the wheel. They are pointing quite a bit up and this would be the fully engaged position.
In the photograph where they point out I didn’t show that.
<edit>
When I mounted the scimitars pointing out and checked the distance between the eyes in the retracted position, they are almost identical.
Mockup using chain v-pull and the abominable brake noodle. The chain might be OK but the noodle will not.
Same thing with the scimitars on top reversed.
This would be the fully engaged position. It’s not welded yet. I wired the pads together.
The way I assembled the chain, there is some eccentric action that makes the levers want to deflect & rub. Perhaps this would reduce with the cable set up.
This would be the fully engaged position. It’s not welded yet. I wired the pads together.
The way I assembled the chain, there is some eccentric action that makes the levers want to deflect & rub. Perhaps this would reduce with the cable set up.
