Sturmy Archer 2nd gear free spinning

[flatflip]

Today I bought a 1974 Schwinn Speedster on craigslist. It is super clean and the seller said it shifts perfectly. I bought it and stopped on the way home for a ride and took some pics. It shifted and rode perfectly. When I got home I rode it again and when I shifted into 2nd gear it spins freely like the chain is off. I added about a thimble of oil through the oil tap and oiled the tiny shifter chain, letting it run into / towards the hub. Is this a common defect? A friend of mine told me a while back that he lost his second gear but didn't really say it free spins. Thanks for any advice. I can fix anything but would like to know what I'm getting into. Thanks, Mick

 

[deorman]

Entirely possible that you just need to tighten the cable a little. Make sure the pulley and stop are not moving.

 

[flatflip]

Entirely possible that you just need to tighten the cable a little. Make sure the pulley and stop are not moving.

That fixed it! Thank You so much! I forgot that when I got home, the first thing I did was adjust the seat and adjust the cable stop. It was twisted and the cable was not quite parallel with the top bar. I just tweaked it for looks. "Now" it is straight and properly adjusted.

 

[gcrank1]

Remember that when you screw the rod into the hub (the adj. rod with the chain) that you gently take it down to were it stops and back off up to 1 turn. 2nd is your 1:1 ratio, and you adjust the trigger from 2nd gear. If the cable breaks it goes to stuck in 3rd (too high if you have the typical 18t rear sprocket), so change to a 20-22 to make high more usable than just on long flats or downhill, and which lowers the overall ratio on 1st and 2nd too (makes 1st a real hill climbin' granny gear).

 

[flatflip]

Remember that when you screw the rod into the hub (the adj. rod with the chain) that you gently take it down to were it stops and back off up to 1 turn. 2nd is your 1:1 ratio, and you adjust the trigger from 2nd gear. If the cable breaks it goes to stuck in 3rd (too high if you have the typical 18t rear sprocket), so change to a 20-22 to make high more usable than just on long flats or downhill, and which lowers the overall ratio on 1st and 2nd too (makes 1st a real hill climbin' granny gear).

Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know if if my hub uses the long or short spindle indicator?

My chain has been twisted sometime by someone. Maybe they were trying to adjust it or maybe they didn't know to bottom the threads and then back off a turn. (like gcrank1 said).

 

[gcrank1]

I think that as long as the chain can be seen in the nut hole and is making the bend that it is the right one. Ive straightened several with some gentle small pliers work and havent broke one yet. It just needs to be flexible enough to move back and forth when you throw the trigger. If the chain does break while working on it, save the rod, I have some ideas for one.

 

[flatflip]

I replaced the spindle indicator. Found a new one on Amazon for $2 and change from Niagara Cycle, Inc. Man, It shifts like a dream now.

Found this great SA manual pdf here; http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/%7Ehadland/aw.pdf That's how I knew which indicator to get.

(pdf's are awesome on iPad / iBooks. Just open the page in Safari, click on "open in iBooks". It will save for off-line viewing anytime.)