The Brown Bobber (Hot Rod)

[Pushie Pirate]

Had a few projects on the go, often build a couple at the same time to stop myself getting bored, plus in the long run
you save on materials. I live fairly isolated so I can't just slip down to the local hardware store to get stuff, true hot
rodding build with what ya got!

Calling this one "The Brown Bobber" with a bit of hot rod influence not such a popular colour and that is why I decided
on brown. Did the chopped then raked fork stem and laid back seat post. Have gone with two different lengths of forks
just to see how she looks. Bit of a surprise with this one, currently wrapped in paper not because I am hiding something
because I don't want paint on this part of the frame.

This pic with the longer forks the one to the right with shorter folks, has that board tracker look about her. Got some
fat tan coloured tyres and a nice brown seat which influenced the colour choice, hey anyone out there got a tip on the
best way to clean dirty finger marks and grease off tyres?

Hope to slap some paint on this than knock her together some time soon.

 

[NicksGarage]

hey anyone out there got a tip on the
best way to clean dirty finger marks and grease off tyres?

Mr. Clean Magic Erasers.

 

[Ichoptop]

I like the grey. Ford painted many cars Dove Grey in the 30s and 40s and though the interiors were oxblood I really like the brown. Good looking ride for sure.

 

[cledry]

Looks nice with the shorter forks.

How hard is it to lay the seatpost back? Do you cut it at the bottom bracket and stays and relocate it? Wondering if it would be possible to leave one atached to the bottom bracket and use a conduit bender after cutting it loose from the stays and simply put a bend low down to do the same thing.

 

[Pushie Pirate]

Looks nice with the shorter forks.

How hard is it to lay the seatpost back? Do you cut it at the bottom bracket and stays and relocate it? Wondering if it would be possible to leave one atached to the bottom bracket and use a conduit bender after cutting it loose from the stays and simply put a bend low down to do the same thing.

Hi cledry, I have done a few of these now, most of the frames I have found the seat post is just seized into the pipe
where it should slide. I have but very rarely do you free them up so my solution is to hack saw them off get another
seat post and replace it. At the same time lay it down, I cut a small V down near the pedal crank at the back then
very carefully cut along the curved tubes that run past the seat post until they are free. Cut through the pipe leading
to the front of the seat post, you can then lay the seat post right back to the small pipe where the fenders are mounted.
Finally you have to replace the small bit of pipe filling the gap you have made at the front of the seat post, hope you
understand all that?.

A couple advantages, one, your feet are closer to the ground when you stop and you still keep a good length from the
pedals when riding. Two, I think they look better but still keep the same style to the frame.

Can't find the pic's right now below is a link to my Vee-Dub-Cycle the first couple of pic's show this mod and my poor
arc welding, must get a mig one day.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=55616

 

[cledry]

Makes perfect sense. You are pie cutting the tube and adding a bit to the forward side. It is just what I am looking to do to my cheapo Chinese Schwinn. I need a bit more extension but like the feel of having both feet firmly on the ground when stopped.

Looks nice with the shorter forks.

How hard is it to lay the seatpost back? Do you cut it at the bottom bracket and stays and relocate it? Wondering if it would be possible to leave one atached to the bottom bracket and use a conduit bender after cutting it loose from the stays and simply put a bend low down to do the same thing.

Hi cledry, I have done a few of these now, most of the frames I have found the seat post is just seized into the pipe
where it should slide. I have but very rarely do you free them up so my solution is to hack saw them off get another
seat post and replace it. At the same time lay it down, I cut a small V down near the pedal crank at the back then
very carefully cut along the curved tubes that run past the seat post until they are free. Cut through the pipe leading
to the front of the seat post, you can then lay the seat post right back to the small pipe where the fenders are mounted.
Finally you have to replace the small bit of pipe filling the gap you have made at the front of the seat post, hope you
understand all that?.

A couple advantages, one, your feet are closer to the ground when you stop and you still keep a good length from the
pedals when riding. Two, I think they look better but still keep the same style to the frame.

Can't find the pic's right now below is a link to my Vee-Dub-Cycle the first couple of pic's show this mod and my poor
arc welding, must get a mig one day.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=55616

 

[karfer67]

I like the shorter fork. Nice work

 

[the_undecider]

I like the name "Brown Bobber." Nuff said.

 

[Pushie Pirate]

Got the Brown Bobber on the road today, as you can see I had this old three speed free wheel Sturmy Archer hub
so used it to give the Bobber three speeds and that chromed engine look. Took a bit of fiddling, I started out with
a geared bike front sprocket and as many would know a geared sprocket and a back pedal brake chain are different
so had to change over to a more suited front sprocket, got there in the end after a few colourful words! Took a bit
but got there in the end and she goes okay!

Really wanted to go for that old school Hot Rod look you know how you see those old early Fords and Chevs with the
chromed engine parts showing, that is the look I am after but a push bike version!

 

[Lowlife Lucas]

That looks awesome!

 

[iven]

dude you should run a gold and a silver chain on that.. would look good that gold on the brown and the silver over the rear chrome chain would look cool man :idea:
just a thought :wink: :mrgreen:

 

[Pushie Pirate]

Your bike looks awesome. Out of curiosity, how do the 3 speeds work if the 3speed hub is not directly connected to the rear wheel? Just wondering.

Because of the two sprockets on the pedal axle if you change gears the speed slows or speeds up.
I guess the hub works a bit like a gearbox, transfered via the chains through the pedal axle.
Had to do a bit of fiddling with the chains clearance, had to shim out the gap between the two
sprockets and play around with the hub chain length to get it right, as I said a few colourful
words came out during that process!!!!

 

[deven_science]

Your bike looks awesome. Out of curiosity, how do the 3 speeds work if the 3speed hub is not directly connected to the rear wheel? Just wondering.

Because of the two sprockets on the pedal axle if you change gears the speed slows or speeds up.
I guess the hub works a bit like a gearbox, transfered via the chains through the pedal axle.
Had to do a bit of fiddling with the chains clearance, had to shim out the gap between the two
sprockets and play around with the hub chain length to get it right, as I said a few colourful
words came out during that process!!!!

Wow. I'm just not quite getting how that actually changes your gearing, even though it's not the rear or front hub. My brain's not wrapping around it.

 

[Pushie Pirate]

Your bike looks awesome. Out of curiosity, how do the 3 speeds work if the 3speed hub is not directly connected to the rear wheel? Just wondering.

Because of the two sprockets on the pedal axle if you change gears the speed slows or speeds up.
I guess the hub works a bit like a gearbox, transfered via the chains through the pedal axle.
Had to do a bit of fiddling with the chains clearance, had to shim out the gap between the two
sprockets and play around with the hub chain length to get it right, as I said a few colourful
words came out during that process!!!!

Wow. I'm just not quite getting how that actually changes your gearing, even though it's not the rear or front hub. My brain's not wrapping around it.

I understand it is sort of hard to describe too, look at it this way the rear wheel can only go as fast as the top
hub allows, if its in low gear you pedal fast, climb hills easier, high gear you pedal slow, faster on the flats.

It works trust me!

 

[Critter1]

Looks like it works the same as if that three speed was on the back wheel alone.

 

[Onewheelsqueel]

Im not getting it either. Would think the hub shell would have to have a gear like a trike hub and run the rear wheel. Otherwise your just spinning a hub to spin it, changing gears would cause more drag if you shifted up, feeling like its harder to pedal like a lower ratio.

 

[Onewheelsqueel]

Yes I think the bike is cool as well. Just not seeing what makes it multi geared.

 

[Pushie Pirate]

Change of tyres for the Brown Bobber, put on some white walls fat on the back and skinny on the front, bit more of a hot rod style look to her.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Your bike looks awesome. Out of curiosity, how do the 3 speeds work if the 3speed hub is not directly connected to the rear wheel? Just wondering.

Because of the two sprockets on the pedal axle if you change gears the speed slows or speeds up.
I guess the hub works a bit like a gearbox, transfered via the chains through the pedal axle.
Had to do a bit of fiddling with the chains clearance, had to shim out the gap between the two
sprockets and play around with the hub chain length to get it right, as I said a few colourful
words came out during that process!!!!

O.K., so I'm in doubt also.

First I'd like to say that the bike looks very cool and it has inspired me on the idea of locating gear changers in that nice open space! Total props to you!

Here's where your loosing me... In order to change the ratio, you have to input a certain rpm and then output a different rpm. Unless I just can't see it in the pictures, there is no output from your gear changing hub.

Here's a simple way to clear this up: If you remove the chain that connects to the top hub, will the rear wheel stop turning when you pedal? If you can still pedal and spin the rear wheel, then your gear changer was never part of the drive train and therefor has no effect.

 

[moleman]

My 2 cents,
If the 3-speed hub is not connected to the rear wheel, it is not part of the drive-line, dead stop.
However....
That hub looks like it is 3-speed/generator hub. If it is, why not mount a headlight and tap the hub for power? You could even use the 3 speed to change the speed of the generator and the amount of power/light.
If that works, I might even look at adding some weight to the hub so it would continue to spin and generate light when you stop.
Looks great, ride and enjoy!