I finally got one frame rail notched, bent, and set up pretty close. It needs a little more notching and cleanup before I tack it on.
The tunnel and crossmember need more trimming.
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I finally got one frame rail notched, bent, and set up pretty close. It needs a little more notching and cleanup before I tack it on.
The tunnel and crossmember need more trimming.
Some better photographs of the notching where I am joining these frame channels into a tube, and wrapping them around a steel angle crossmember.
(As photographed, this is all still inverted on the jig.)
Bottom view
Side view
Top view:
Where the fit-up is crooked, it will get cut open even more before welding, as I want to first catch the concealed flanges to the crossmember and each other with full penetration welds.
Here you can see the backside of the notch where I have cut away 1.4” of the 3.5” channel. I will weld the notched metal back into place to fill this hole.
Because I am welding across the bottom of the tube here at a critical juncture, I will put a strap across this joint.
That will make me feel more secure about cutting through the extreme fiber at the bottom of the frame.
Same thing here where I have notched through both channels to make this bend.
There will also be a fish plate to tie the side seam together, and I’ll angle gusset to the crossmember.
(As photographed, this is all still inverted on the jig.)
Bottom view
Side view
Top view:
Where the fit-up is crooked, it will get cut open even more before welding, as I want to first catch the concealed flanges to the crossmember and each other with full penetration welds.
Here you can see the backside of the notch where I have cut away 1.4” of the 3.5” channel. I will weld the notched metal back into place to fill this hole.
Because I am welding across the bottom of the tube here at a critical juncture, I will put a strap across this joint.
That will make me feel more secure about cutting through the extreme fiber at the bottom of the frame.
Same thing here where I have notched through both channels to make this bend.
There will also be a fish plate to tie the side seam together, and I’ll angle gusset to the crossmember.
Today I got the second rail cut, notched, bent, and assembled.
So this is till just clamped together. It needs some more cleaning up before I start welding.
So this is till just clamped together. It needs some more cleaning up before I start welding.
if I squint, I can see a car. 
I can see it until I open my eyes. ;-)
But today is so dim I can’t weld or photograph.
But today is so dim I can’t weld or photograph.
Today should be dry enough to weld in the boatyard. I have been hiding out in the garage, trying to turn some junk into a rocket stove.
I gave this it’s own thread here in Other Talk.
I was going to o/a torch weld this (the puddles be damnned!) but it is drying up enough for tig welding today.
All last week, my pedal would have been in a puddle!
I gave this it’s own thread here in Other Talk.
I was going to o/a torch weld this (the puddles be damnned!) but it is drying up enough for tig welding today.
All last week, my pedal would have been in a puddle!
I haven’t given up yet, guys.
The rains keep coming and going, and so I haven’t been working on the car much at all.
Also everything has been crashing here in one month. The ice maker died, the water heater leaked, and the sewer cracked and it had to be dug up and patched.
I discovered a bad grounding situation, when the water heater was being changed. An aluminum ground cable runs from the main box to an aluminum clamp to a pipe above the water heater.
There has never been a real copper earth grounding rod on the system. That sux.
Grounding to the pipes puts a small charge on them. About 1/2 volt here by my measurement but it can be much more. If it isn’t zero, action from ions in the water will be energized, rusting iron pipes from the inside out.
Also, who let them put an aluminum cable, in an otherwise copper-wired house, for the safety ground?
There’s nothing safe about aluminum wiring done how house wiring is done. Houses were burning from self-loosening wire connections.
See, aluminum moves/grows about 3x as fast as copper when it gets hot. It heats up faster as well. Melts at half the temp. It was outlawed here in the 1970s.
But was it?
My house was built in 1984, so now 40 years old. In my estimation it should not have any aluminum wiring, and after tomorrow it will not.
Today I put an 8’ ground rod in by the main breaker box, carefully snaking it between sprinkler pipes, gas pipe, phone cable, TV cable, and the AC power mains, all buried right there.
There were over six layers of hard pan, between layers of compact sand. We live on the margin of a long risen seabed. It took 2 hours to make an 8’ hole with a steel conduit and water, drilling it in with vicegrips and elbow grease.
But power runs 125’ out to my sheds, and next I will put another rod at the sub-panel there, so there is grounding at the extremes of the system.
This becomes important if the voltage potential from the neutral leg is different from the dirt under you. You might get a shock from the “neutral” leg.
I have, in fact. I measured a 31 volt potential when an electrically “leaky” device was plugged into my aquarium, That’s enough to really feel a shock if you are barefoot.
The rains keep coming and going, and so I haven’t been working on the car much at all.
Also everything has been crashing here in one month. The ice maker died, the water heater leaked, and the sewer cracked and it had to be dug up and patched.
I discovered a bad grounding situation, when the water heater was being changed. An aluminum ground cable runs from the main box to an aluminum clamp to a pipe above the water heater.
There has never been a real copper earth grounding rod on the system. That sux.
Grounding to the pipes puts a small charge on them. About 1/2 volt here by my measurement but it can be much more. If it isn’t zero, action from ions in the water will be energized, rusting iron pipes from the inside out.
Also, who let them put an aluminum cable, in an otherwise copper-wired house, for the safety ground?
There’s nothing safe about aluminum wiring done how house wiring is done. Houses were burning from self-loosening wire connections.
See, aluminum moves/grows about 3x as fast as copper when it gets hot. It heats up faster as well. Melts at half the temp. It was outlawed here in the 1970s.
But was it?
My house was built in 1984, so now 40 years old. In my estimation it should not have any aluminum wiring, and after tomorrow it will not.
Today I put an 8’ ground rod in by the main breaker box, carefully snaking it between sprinkler pipes, gas pipe, phone cable, TV cable, and the AC power mains, all buried right there.
There were over six layers of hard pan, between layers of compact sand. We live on the margin of a long risen seabed. It took 2 hours to make an 8’ hole with a steel conduit and water, drilling it in with vicegrips and elbow grease.
But power runs 125’ out to my sheds, and next I will put another rod at the sub-panel there, so there is grounding at the extremes of the system.
This becomes important if the voltage potential from the neutral leg is different from the dirt under you. You might get a shock from the “neutral” leg.
I have, in fact. I measured a 31 volt potential when an electrically “leaky” device was plugged into my aquarium, That’s enough to really feel a shock if you are barefoot.
1977, the Beverly Hills Supper Club. One of the deadliest fires in US history. Suspected cause was faulty aluminum wiring.
Beverly Hills Fire
Beverly Hills Fire
Yikes! We don’t need faulty wires!
Today I got the second rod in at my welder subpanel. Now I am well grounded at both extremes of the house.
This one had to go through the patio concrete, but it actually went in easier than the first one.
Today I got the second rod in at my welder subpanel. Now I am well grounded at both extremes of the house.
This one had to go through the patio concrete, but it actually went in easier than the first one.
