The Flying Dutchman

[toro1978]

Thank you, SpikeFC.
These aren't bad at all, they take some effort to remove and install. It could be the partially sanded surface underneath instead of smooth black paint or chrome (usually found on handlebars LOL) that helps with the issue.
I would like something more distinctive though. And maybe bolt-on if I find something with the right look. We'll see, there is a flea market in two weeks.

P.S. I like your signature

 

[OddJob]

Nice work on your build so far toro! I really like the headlight and your photo captions along the way too.

On that cable stop where the housing meets the stop, a cable housing 'end' would keep that from pushing back on the plastic housing. It will also keep your shifting more precise over time.

That frame has a beautiful style to it. I don't think I've ever seen a head tube that long before on a traditional 2 wheeled bike!

RaT oN~!

 

[SpikeFC]

Feel free to PM me if you need anything Stripped a lot of old Polish bikes trough the years and I might have some old, small rear lights with brackets & old Romet black handle bars + some other old Polish stuff

P.S. I like your signature

 

[toro1978]

Aaaahahaha now I remember! Ash is cool!
Thanks for the offer, we'll see what my next project would be...

 

[toro1978]

Nice work on your build so far toro! I really like the headlight and your photo captions along the way too.

On that cable stop where the housing meets the stop, a cable housing 'end' would keep that from pushing back on the plastic housing. It will also keep your shifting more precise over time.

That frame has a beautiful style to it. I don't think I've ever seen a head tube that long before on a traditional 2 wheeled bike!

RaT oN~!

Thanks, Oddjob, I have that stopper and thought of using it, but I can't because when I want to put the cable end through it the connector shell is in the way - the one that connects the cable to the chain. On the other end I the cable housing is in the way.
I won't worry too much about it. Those housings are sturdier than they look, even damaged. This stopper has a tightening in the middle (pic) but now that I think about it I could widen it with no trouble, right? Even better because it will cover more of the housing.

As you see I also have this pulley for the gear chain. It is from a Sturmey Archer hub. It takes such an achsle nut, the problem is this on the pic is not the correct nut. While it fits the pulley's plastic casing very well it has the wrong achsle diameter. I gotta look really thoroughly for the Sturmey Archer bolt it came with, because it has the same thread as the Torpedo and then I will be able to use it. I am sure the gear chain will be more than grateful for rolling over a bearing instead fo rubbing on the bare static metal, I would assume it would make the shifting softer.
Unrelated question! I have these wheels:

Both of them are a part of two wheelsets. Both are 26" and 36 holes. Can I use the spokes and the rear hun and just lace them in the other rim? The other rim seem to have a bit of a elevation in the middle though, is it too much?

 

[SpikeFC]

Unrelated question! I have these wheels:
View attachment 95390
Both of them are a part of two wheelsets. Both are 26" and 36 holes. Can I use the spokes and the rear hun and just lace them in the other rim? The other rim seem to have a bit of a elevation in the middle though, is it too much?

Theoretically it should work. It looks like both of the rims have near-identical inner diameter

 

[sdframe]

The bike looks great! Nice work.

 

[toro1978]

Thnank you
After a few rides I came to the conclusion that these thin tires are no fun on a seated position bike. Luckily I have another ancient set, this time in regular 28" (622mm).
After rubbing the dirt and dust off:

After some spa procedures:

I love the engravings on these old wheels. My modern wheels don't have any. Also cool pattern on the side of the rims.
Nice gum wall Continentals that really go well with the green frame:

I put these pedals on. I love those black/silver spike pedals, but they are too raw for this bike I think. I found these in my "treasures":

Nothing special obviously, but sometime less is more. They also are pretty ok, have a lot of surface and also have these pins to prevent shoe slippage.
I don't remember how was the rear cog attached to the hub, but after the spring ring slot ther were like 5mm more place, so the cog would be moving across the achsle. Sorry I forgot to make a "before" photo, but here you can see that I was forced to rat it by using a cone ring for a tapered fork I had lying around as a spacer:

As you see a Torpedo 3 sp hub. I checked other hubs I have and they have completely normal spacing, all of the cogs I have are the same thickness as well, even an offset one. Weird.
This ancient hub comes probably from the bronze age, because you can see that it actually has these bronze wingnuts for achsle nuts They have "bronze" and "F&S" (Fichtel und Sachs) written on them:

They are cool and all, but I am not sure they would be the right choice. I think the ones it has now look better.
By the way this hub comes with this gear attachment setup, but the one with the black box is interchangeable - you just have to unscrew the gear chain from the wheel achsle and replace with the other one and you are done:

 

[SpikeFC]

Definetely like those brown Contis there, much better than the white walls.

 

[toro1978]

Well, mystery solved, it turned out there was supposed to be a cap and spacer ring on the hub, which would have been obvious to anyone except me:

The other wheel was missing those, for reasons unknown, so it looked like this:

So that's why I had to improvise to get the cog snuggly in place. I was focused on the spacing and not on what the hub should look like. I rode it and it works so I guess I will leave it like that.
The bicycle also rides much more comfortably with the normal 28" tires instead of those slim road tires. Those are really only suitable for a bike where you can stand from the seat and cushion the bump hits with your joints.

 

[SpikeFC]

If I recall correctly those bronze wing nuts were used by Sachs in the fifties and sixties. You could use them but you would need to run wheel tensioners like I did on my Ukraina. They take a lot of tension from the nuts so that you don't need to tighten them as hard as you need to without the tensioners.

 

[toro1978]

I just re-read this! It had never occured to me I could use tensioners on an IGH. Thanks for the advice, will probably do it!

 

[KJV]

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Nice work!

That's a cool bike. Very unique chain guard.

 

[Machine Age Victim]

Nice bike! They're a very comfortable ride, can't wait to see what you do with it.

Here's my Dutch bike, made just outside Amsterdam

 

[toro1978]

I managed to finish this bike. I think this will be the main pic for the finished thread:

It is a sort of "Kubrick shot", but I am also pretty fond of 3/4 rear shot, so not sure yet:

A few more pics:

Last work done: I swapped the black pedals for this silver/black pair, replaced the black headlamp holder for a chrome one, replaced the rectangle rear light for a rounded one, used the original butterfly achsle nuts.

 

[kingfish254]

Beautiful classic!!
BRAVO!!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Looks great!

I think I like the 3/4 shot mainly because it shows off the unique top tube better than the first one. Either one looks good though.

 

[toro1978]

Thank you, guys! This is a high praise coming from you.

 

[OddJob]

I like the second photo as well, with the 3/4 rear view. There's a certain elegance, yet sturdiness to the look you have created. Bravo!