THE RICKPAULOS COLLECTION

[LukeTheJoker]

I would be hesitant to use one of those with a coaster brake set up. Every time you peddle backwards the underside of the chain tightens up, those things are only held by the tension of the nuts in the BB, designed only to work against gravity not back peddling/braking... Perfect for this application here, but I would not recommend it for coaster brakes!

Luke.

 

[rickpaulos]

I would be hesitant to use one of those with a coaster brake set up. Every time you peddle backwards the underside of the chain tightens up, those things are only held by the tension of the nuts in the BB, designed only to work against gravity not back peddling/braking... Perfect for this application here, but I would not recommend it for coaster brakes!

Luke.

I asked because I have another conversion project on hold where I'm fitting a coaster brake to a bike with vertical dropouts. I've tried some different combos of cog sizes and half links but it hasn't worked out yet. That bike has a English treaded 35mm bb so the cheaper eccentric bb's for American large bb shells won't fit.
Yeah, you are right. Same goes for the hanger mounted tensioners. Way too much pressure when hitting the brakes. I see there is a Blackspire model for ISCG frames that have eye holes for bolting them in place but that requires a ISCG frame or welding on tabs. The Blackspire plate doesn't look beefy enough to withstand back brake pedaling pressure over time.

 

[kingsting]

A lot of cheaper derailleurs were held on with a mount plate that was kept in place by the rear axle nut or skewer. Some of these were removable so any better standard derailleur would thread on it. Find one of those and you're good to go.

One pictured here:
http://www.bikeparts.com/search_results ... =BPC109497

The little bolt pictured keeps it at the proper angle and in place when the wheel is removed. I'd drill and tap the dropout and thread the bolt in.

 

[rickpaulos]

Really.

From a scrapped out ~1974 Sears Hydraulic bike. I saved the brakes.

The tubing for the front brake is petrified and cracked apart.
Amazingly enough the rear brake still functions.
I think the front could work again with the right tubing.
The lever is missing the cover with reflector.
The lever strap bolt is rusted to the nut. Mounting similar to a regular weinman/diacompe lever.

How does it work?
When you squeeze the lever a disk in the lever body compresses both pads pushing air/oil through the tubes to the calipers. A bellows mounted on the top of the calipers expands and pushes the levers in opposite directions. Works like a "linear" push brake. There are adjusters on the side of the calipers for fine tuning the brake pad distance from the rim.

Sears still has parts listed but only 1 part is still in stock.
http://parts.sears.com/partsdirect/part ... t=&shdMod=

Wow, not included: matching head light for the left side of the handlebars (see parts diagram).

Would these look cool (working or not) on your rat rod? They can be yours.

(see another thread viewtopic.php?f=10&t=48845)

donor bike:

parts diagram from Sears parts

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Wow! Those are trippy! Interesting thinking behind it...

Luke.

 

[kingfish254]

Those are pretty wild. I like how they tried to hide the main actuator with a headlight.

 

[CRASH]

I've never seen anything like that! I was eyeballing a brand new $3k Mt Bike at the LBS with hydraulics and disc brakes and was scratching my head at how you work on such a set up. And now you've got the grandfather to those brakes! Good luck with them! What and interesting conversation piece!

 

[rickpaulos]

Missing a dust cap if any one has a spare.
In pretty decent shape.
Super rare.
Dated: 85 86 87 88

 

[mikeeebikey]

The beginning of clip in pedals, requires a special shoe if I remember correctly.

 

[rickpaulos]

Just takes a special cleat (Look brand) bolted to the bottom of most cycling shoes. Most any cycling shoe made in the past 25 years will have the built in screw holes for Look, Shimano SPD, Time, Speedplay, Eggbeaters or many other cleats. The Look cleats are bright red plastic and rather quick to wear out if you walk on them at all. A rather lousy design despite their huge popularity among racers, racer wannabes and tourists. The reason to use cleats is you use ALL the muscle groups in your legs. That eases the effort of any 1 set of muscles. That means you can go faster and farther with less effort. When your feet are locked to the pedals, you pedal in circles, not being limited to pushing down.

 

[rickpaulos]

Just spotted on ebay.

a black Sears Hydraulic in vg condition (for its age). $125 New jersey.

It has the optional matching headlight on the left side of the handle bars.

Very little wear on the cogs. I don't think it got ridden very much, like 100 miles tops.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sear-Ro ... 43be62c9dd

Oh yeah, another Green version in Indiana:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1974-Se ... 5af7f863b9

Okay, is it just all of my computers or is the right side of the photos getting cut off for everyone else too? sigh, got to resize, reload, relink. Or right click on the image, View Image to see the whole thing.

 

[rickpaulos]

sold in 2003 & 2004.

 

[horsefarmer]

What makes it a "fresh find"? did you buy it back?

 

[rickpaulos]

Oh, no I just got it. Trek sold this model in 2002 & 2003.

 

[horsefarmer]

Wow, too bad I'm a decade or so late...

 

[rickpaulos]

This was donated to the local coop today. The donor said it was his kid's bike but the kid has outgrown it. They bought it locally. So now it is at the coop and already drawing attention. Several tried to ride it today. It is more teen size so full grown adults will have issue.

Some build notes. The front of the frame and top of the fork is 1970s ladies Varsity. Rear frame is chrome plated freestyle, perhaps a haro or gt. Fairly recent 20" wheels. Nice sting ray seat. Schwinn middleweight bar, stem and grips. Generator light system but the clip that holds the headlight in is broken so the lens keeps popping out.








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[Stevil]

Rise the seat with more sissy bar ,
otherwise it's hard on the eyes.
Stevil

 

[rickpaulos]

Trek 800 covered in stickers. BB is junk and it won't budge. 24" crescent wrench with another 18" cheater bar and I can't get either side to move. Liquid Wrench hasn't worked.






John Deere. Men's 10 speed from the early 1970s. Pretty clean. Minus the wheels and drive train. Someone put on the flat bars and wrapped them with foam tape. The orginal brake levers were criminally bad. A screw held the suicide levers on but the screws would fall out. The way the levers were designed, that would leave the bike with NO brakes. The cable end hooked in to the suicide lever instead of the main lever like all other brands. One other unique item about these bikes were the welded on reflector mounts. The two seat stay reflector mounts are broken off. The head tube reflector is still there. Thinking of a single speed conversion. I have these two hot pink deep dish rims...

 

[horsefarmer]

Trek 800 covered in stickers. BB is junk and it won't budge. 24" crescent wrench with another 18" cheater bar and I can't get either side to move. Liquid Wrench hasn't worked.

Have you heated it with a propane torch? I had a Raleigh M30 that I picked up with a bad cartridge BB. After I pulled the cranks and started heating it, I found the non drive side retainer was plastic. Melted it to carbon and plucked it out. other side came out then. Cleaned the threads (bubbled a little paint in the area) replaced the bearings and flipped it.

 

[rickpaulos]

I got a propane torch out last night so that's on todays task list. I expect flames from all the penetrating oils. The screw for the plastic cable guide is seized too. I've found some Treks with that screw so long it bottoms out on the cartridge.