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Aaarghhh how long do I have to wait to assemble? This is more boring than...

What's more boring than watching paint dry?
waiting for bare metal to rust so I can shoot it with clear?
 
I never thought of using a cinder block. I’ll have to paint the umbrella stand black after each use. The cinder block don’t care what color it is.
Did I say cinder block? I meant to say Rat Rod Paint Stick Holder.
IMG_20200905_120746398_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

Stick goes in hole, shard of brick wedges stick in place.
 
Haha Sandman on the edge of his seat waiting for this one!
It should be rideable by the end of the week. Theoretically. Sometime this winter I might get some details painted. When the littlest gets faster in a year or two, I'll add a drivetrain. So it might be finished by 2022.
 
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PS this thread was started a year ago. Notice how much built up stuff I posted on day one? This build started before the thread. I don't always update right away.
 
So, it's together.
IMG_20200911_144833359.jpg

IMG_20200911_144843185.jpg

Wacky clip on bars, couldn't slide em down as far as I wanted, and scratched the paint in the process. Wanted them below the curve, but they're actually sorta comfortable
IMG_20200911_144908638.jpg

Raw hockey stick footrest/place to jam your foot into the back wheel to slow down
IMG_20200911_144902468.jpg

Solid steel nuts. Reasons.
IMG_20200911_144855953.jpg


Obviously there are issues. Apparently I didn't really do a tight fit mock-up last year or I might have noticed this:
IMG_20200911_144936204.jpg

Anyone have a solution that doesn't include cutting it shorter?

Also, brakes might be nice. Maybe a u brake on the front.

We good, Sandy?
 
So, it's together.
View attachment 138513
View attachment 138516
Wacky clip on bars, couldn't slide em down as far as I wanted, and scratched the paint in the process. Wanted them below the curve, but they're actually sorta comfortable
View attachment 138515
Raw hockey stick footrest/place to jam your foot into the back wheel to slow down
View attachment 138514
Solid steel nuts. Reasons.
View attachment 138517

Obviously there are issues. Apparently I didn't really do a tight fit mock-up last year or I might have noticed this:
View attachment 138519
Anyone have a solution that doesn't include cutting it shorter?

Also, brakes might be nice. Maybe a u brake on the front.

We good, Sandy?
I have used a piece of PVC pipe as a spacer a few times. Used a big washer on top of the PVC. Found those in the electrical conduit parts at Home Depot.
bcd8815878ee7a0f16789bfad28a9958.jpg


Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
What is the problem? The top nut won't go all the way? I have some that can be screwed all the way down so check your other headsets if any on hand. Also you could get the bottom nut from another headset and use it as a top nut, then you put some spacers and the real top nut.
 
Yeah the top but isn't threaded all the way through. There's a little lip preventing it from going down any further. My parts stash is limited, the only other headset I have also has the lip on the top nut. I guess I'll have to prowl around for something to use for a spacer. Thanks guys.
*Still software trouble, can't see the image @handyandy1100 shared
 
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Ok, just take the bottom nut from the other headset and use i as a top nut, then some washers and the original top nut on top. Perfect case scenario would be - bottom nut, anti rotation washer, second bottom nut, another anti rotation washer, then a few spacers and the top nut. I tried a fork with a longer steer tube that I didn't want to cut, but wanted to hide the rest of the thread.
Something similar to this (only in this pic I tried a spacer under the bottom nut because not enough thread, duh, and there is a second top nut in between):
IMG_20200614_172819.jpg
 
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