RRBBO13 THICK as a BRICK <Last peek!>

[Toeslider]

So, I'm getting ready to lace in the new copper rim in the rear to match the front, but I have an issue I need opinions on. The old wheel has 72 spoke holes (36 on each side) but only uses one side. The new rim only has 36 spoke holes, 18 per side. I knew this when I ordered it, and my intention was to just drill the extra holes on one side so I could lace it the same and not worry about offsets or spoke length. The issue I have is that the holes on the original wheel are 1" apart from each other, or 1/2" from the center, and on the new rim they are 1.5" apart from each other, or 3/4" from the center. I'm worried that if I go with my original plan the whole wheel will be off by 1/4", potentially causing clearance problems.

So the question I ask is: would you go with my original plan of just using some of the existing holes, or should I play it safe and just drill a whole new row of holes 1/4" inboard of the existing ones? Appearance probably isn't going to be an issue with what I have planned...

Let me know what you think!

Despite the picture, wheels are the same width.

Original wheel has spokes all in line with each other.

New rim has staggered holes, but they are further from the center than on the original.

Frame appears to be offset specifically to fit this hub, so I don't want to stray too far from the original setup and run into alignment problems.

 

[gowjobs]

I'd say go for it. You should be able to move the rim more than 1/4" either way with just a turn or two of the spoke nipples.

 

[RustyGold]

I wouldn't drill any more holes...if you need dish, you can do it regardless of hole locations. I don't understand why the previous rim (Rabbit Hole?) didn't alternate.

Jason

 

[RustyGold]

...answering my own question ...
https://surlybikes.com/blog/rabbit_hole_rims_160mm_rotors_brakes_spokes_and_you

 

[kingfish254]

With my Speedway, it took a while before I even noticed that the rear wheel was only laced on one side and the left side drops are offset inwards a good bit. The offset is done to allow normal (non fat) hubs to be used. I am no expert when it comes to lacing a wheel, but you just have to make sure that you have enough dish in the wheel to keep the wheel centered and to provide chain clearance. Good luck.

 

[Toeslider]

Well, the rear wheel is done (for now)! Took some trial and error to get there, but I got it figured out. Here is a video if you want to see what it took:





Here's where I'm at for the rest of this weekend probably. I don't think I'll get to anything else:

 

[RustySprockets]

Everyone starts out by tightening the wrong side at least once.

 

[Chad T]

Those copper wheels really go with that frame color. Nice stagger on the tires. Bike is looking good.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Love those wheels!

 

[OddJob]

Wheels turned out well. Dig the machined stem as well. Not really sold on the bars; but I'm not coming up with a better idea either. Maybe more of a mustache style bar, bend forward and then back?

 

[G-Matt]

Wheels are sweet [emoji1303]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GuitarlCarl]

I was just thinking some copper anodized bars on there would be pretty awesome. But I'm not sure if you could find some bow or mustache bars in anodized... Your color scheme is awesome though.

Carl.

 

[Toeslider]

Wasn't planning on working on the bike tonight, but I got bored and decided to flip the stem upside-down to see if it made a big difference. In the process I tried a few other things. Most of them looked better in person than in pictures, but I think my original plan is still the best.

Just flipping the stem and bars as a unit gave me upright bars. Eh.

Rotating the bars so they lined up with the stem gave me this. I didn't hate it, but the bar ends pointed slightly forward. That bothered me more than the fact that they were also pointing downward.

Rotating them up a little bit gave me this look. Again, I didn't hate it, the bar ends were just pointing down and not forward. A bit of an improvement.

Same as last, different angle.

Flipping just the bars is closest to what I envisioned. It seems to flow the best when the bar drop is lined up with the fork. I'll probably go with this, looks a little better than before in my opinion.

Here's another angle. I like the way this looks. A shorter stem would be ideal, like 100mm instead of 135mm, but I just stumbled across someone selling this one and don't know where to find another that is shorter. I'll probably cut a couple inches off the ends of the bars as well.

I tried angling the bars so they were level with the ground, but it looks wrong to me. May still try different bars altogether. I think I have a flat 1" bar here for a project motorcycle that I could try just to see if it flows any better.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Some of it could just be the bulk of the stem and bar combo in comparison to the fork stanchions. My eyeballs are drawn to the disparity between them

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Awesome work so far on this one!
Question, do think that an offset rear sprocket would have served the same as the one side lacing (which is pretty cool).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[macncheese]

My preference with an angled stem is usually that the bars are parallel to the stem. I think you're pretty close in the last one.

The silver of the bars and stem isnt represented anywhere else so I think thats throwing it off. Might look better once the bars are dressed. Also, I'd fill the machined girder pattern in with black, like an italian race bike stem!

 

[OddJob]

Love that ^ idea filling in the girder pattern with black! And if you wrap the bars with a vintage bar tape, like a black cloth tape or cork, it should tie in nicely!

 

[Toeslider]

Small update, was originally going to paint the cranks, but came across these chrome plated ones and thought I'd give them a shot. (I know all these pictures kind of look the same):

I like the way they work with the chrome in front, especially since I'm not planning any other chrome in the rear at the moment, so I think I may go with them.

Couldn't believe when I got the package that it was actually the cranks I ordered, even though I knew that's what it was. These are honestly the HEAVIEST cranks I think I've ever had. I had one in one hand and a HAMMER in the other, and weight-wise I really couldn't tell the difference! Oh well, go big or go home I guess...

Next I need to nail down my sprocket choice.

...Oh yeah, and remove the bottom bracket to take off the dumb chain guard mount! Cmon Felt, you knew everyone was instantly going to remove the $3 plastic chain guard, why would you make the bracket so hard to remove? I'm honestly thinking of bolting a bottle opener to it just so it would serve a purpose and I wouldn't have to mess with removing it.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

The chrome cranks look good and balance with the chrome bars.

I think you've got plenty of time to remove that pesky mount but the opener would be useful.

 

[furyus]

Bike looks great. Speedway! 1933 Crocker for inspiration...