Lookin for a little input if anyone has used one of these before:http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...estoreid=&pagename=Shop by Subcat: Road Stems
My John Deere commuter bike rebuild took a turn for the worse and the only way I can think of to save the front fork assembly is to use a threadless converter stem. Basically the top of the steer tube had a bend about 1.25" down still in the threaded section, my attempt to straighten it jacked up the top irrecoverably. :x :x
What I'm thinking about doing is cutting off the top of the steer tube below the bend (note that the top of the steer tube would now be below the level of the upper head tube berring cup). With the stem converter acting as an internal sleeve as well as a vertical clamp, use a section of steer tube cut from another fork to bridge the distance from the top of the shortened steer tube past the top of the upper head tube berring cup. Since the new section of tube wouldn't be threaded, I'd need a replacement upper berring boot/race, then use spacers and a new stem to attach my bars.
This poses some obvious observations and questions:
1. Will the converter have the lateral stability to withstand the torque loads generated within the head tube?
2. Being as the steer tube is not very thick in the sidewalls, would welding the two peices of steer tube together be a feasible option?
3. Am I asking for a catastrophic failure in rush hour traffic and getting turned into road pizza? :shock:
thanks gang.
My John Deere commuter bike rebuild took a turn for the worse and the only way I can think of to save the front fork assembly is to use a threadless converter stem. Basically the top of the steer tube had a bend about 1.25" down still in the threaded section, my attempt to straighten it jacked up the top irrecoverably. :x :x
What I'm thinking about doing is cutting off the top of the steer tube below the bend (note that the top of the steer tube would now be below the level of the upper head tube berring cup). With the stem converter acting as an internal sleeve as well as a vertical clamp, use a section of steer tube cut from another fork to bridge the distance from the top of the shortened steer tube past the top of the upper head tube berring cup. Since the new section of tube wouldn't be threaded, I'd need a replacement upper berring boot/race, then use spacers and a new stem to attach my bars.
This poses some obvious observations and questions:
1. Will the converter have the lateral stability to withstand the torque loads generated within the head tube?
2. Being as the steer tube is not very thick in the sidewalls, would welding the two peices of steer tube together be a feasible option?
3. Am I asking for a catastrophic failure in rush hour traffic and getting turned into road pizza? :shock:
thanks gang.