I have a set of "chopper" forks, a threadless headset, and all of the cups and bearings and whatknot that came along with it. The bearing set included this rubber ring that caused the whole steering stem and all to be loose, so I took it off. The instructions were to tap the upper triple tree down with a mallet (done), and tighten, and then install the headset to the steering stem, and then there is a star nut and cap that goes into the top of the steering stem. Anyhow, I "tapped" the daylights out of the upper tree, but I still think that the steering set up is loose, anyone have any tips for getting it tighter? I don't have access to a press or anything like that, but it seems to me that I am not getting something in the process right. Thanks
Tightening Steering
- Thread starter davegerard
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
I'm pretty sure that the rubber ring has a function, usually it's the last piece to go on top of the headset (except for spacers). Put it back on.
You should install the triple tree and the stem, but do not tighten them yet! Tighten the top cap just enough to get rid of the looseness. Now you can tighten the triple tree and the stem. If the headset is either too tight or too loose, and doesn't have a sweet spot (not loose but turns smoothly), then it's probably installed wrong.
Make sure that the top cap is only touching the stem, and not the fork tube. Also, make sure that your bearings are not upside down.
Try here for detailed instructions: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html . Let us know how it works out.
Hugo
You should install the triple tree and the stem, but do not tighten them yet! Tighten the top cap just enough to get rid of the looseness. Now you can tighten the triple tree and the stem. If the headset is either too tight or too loose, and doesn't have a sweet spot (not loose but turns smoothly), then it's probably installed wrong.
Make sure that the top cap is only touching the stem, and not the fork tube. Also, make sure that your bearings are not upside down.
Try here for detailed instructions: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html . Let us know how it works out.
Hugo
"...The instructions were to tap the upper triple tree down with a mallet (done), and tighten, ..."
As Hugo said, this is wrong.
Leave it all loose so it will move, adjust the headset (including using the rubber ring, it's important!) and only when the bearings have the proper tension, then tighten up all the bolts on the triple clamps and the stem (which should be left loose during the whole process too).
I might even suggest practicing with a typical threadless headset before further complicating the issue with a triple clamp fork. Learn one step at a time and I think you'll find it all much easier, I know I did.
Once you understand the principle involved none of it is really that complicated.
As Hugo said, this is wrong.
Leave it all loose so it will move, adjust the headset (including using the rubber ring, it's important!) and only when the bearings have the proper tension, then tighten up all the bolts on the triple clamps and the stem (which should be left loose during the whole process too).
I might even suggest practicing with a typical threadless headset before further complicating the issue with a triple clamp fork. Learn one step at a time and I think you'll find it all much easier, I know I did.
Once you understand the principle involved none of it is really that complicated.
Well, I already cut away the rubber ring, so I will have to replace it. I realized that I have made several mistakes, thanks to your guys instructions and the links. Number 1, I did not press the cups on, I just sat them into the neck. That is easily fixable, and will probably work wonders alone. And I misread the instructions to leave a little gap for the top cap, I thought it said don't leave a gap, that could be an issue as well. So just to reiterate the tightening order, the top cap gets tightened first (just a little, enough to seat it), and then the top triple tree, and then the headset. This is of course after the cups have been pressed in and all of the pieces of the bearing set installed in their proper order. Thanks for the help.
After the top cap is tightened, it doesn't really matter if you tighten the stem or the triple tree first. It's important that they are loose when you tighten the top cap, however. The top cap should be tightened just enough to get rid of play on the bearings. They should turn smoothly after that.
Are you calling "headset" the part that holds on to the handlebars? I'm calling it a stem, and headset is all the bearings and races.
The gap above the star-shaped nut is also important to keep the top cap from hitting the fork tube. The top cap should only touch the stem, to push it down and compress the bearings. If the top cap is hitting the fork tube, the bearings won't get compressed no matter how much you tighten, and the headset will be loose.
As for the rubber ring, did it look like the centering sleeve on this pic?
If it did, then it's very important. It needs to be just the right shape. You won't be able to replace it easily and the headset won't work properly without it. However, if it was sort of an o-ring about as wide as the widest point of the headset, then you're ok, it was just a sealing ring. Put grease on the bearings regularly and stay out of the mud.
Hugo
I am calling what you call the stem the headset, but I understand what you are saying. I think the rubber ring was just a seal, it wasn't as thick as the one in the pic, and it wasn't tapered. This thing is not really going anywhere crazy, it's just for low-key cruising, so if something seems off I'll try to find a new rubber ring, but I think they key things are to press in the cups and to fix the cap issue, you are definitely correct about that, mine is pressed right up against the fork tube.
