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@RustySprockets shared those sweet barbed wire fence pliers he uses on spokes, would those work for cables too? Anyone else care to share what they use for cutting through cables and stuff? I'm hacking the heck out of them when I strip a bike down, would like something cleaner for finish work.
 
I use Pedro's cable cutters. Clean cut. Prior to them I spent 35+ years botching the job with assorted methods.
 
MattiThundrrr said:
@RustySprockets shared those sweet barbed wire fence pliers he uses on spokes, would those work for cables too? Anyone else care to share what they use for cutting through cables and stuff? I'm hacking the heck out of them when I strip a bike down, would like something cleaner for finish work.
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I use these for cable work. They're inexpensive and cut really clean. The larger cutter works great for housings and the smaller ones for the inner cables. They stay in my bike tool box and are only used for cables so they don't get boogered up.


20220107_155043.jpg
 
This is not a common job, but if you ever need to reshape your fender braces under the fender, it can be very difficult due to the weakness of the metal where the rivet holes are. To even out the pressure away from the weak spot, I cut a buck out of plywood to press the shape.

The pictures will explain the rest:

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For some extra force, I finished with a good squeeze in my bench vice.

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Obviously I had removed the braces from the fender but it might be possible (I haven't tried it) to do this while they are still attached. You would have to allow for the thickness of both parts and also notch out for the rivets.
 
MattiThundrrr said:
@RustySprockets shared those sweet barbed wire fence pliers he uses on spokes, would those work for cables too? Anyone else care to share what they use for cutting through cables and stuff? I'm hacking the heck out of them when I strip a bike down, would like something cleaner for finish work.
Click to expand...
I happen to have the Park Tool cutter, but the alternatives the other members have mentioned will work fine, too. The important feature to look for is that 'bird beak' blade that gathers the cable strands in an ever-diminishing circle. Traditional side cutters flatten the cable and cause fanning. No bueno.

You probably already know this, but brand new cables arrive with their tail-ends soldered. This permits them to more easily pass through housing, guides, and ferrules. I never cut them to length until they've been installed and tested for function. Once clipped, every new insertion becomes a gamble.
 
I came up with this by accident the other day. I needed a coaster arm bolt and couldn't find anything suitable. I was digging through my misc brake parts and used a cable bolt from an old side pull caliper. These have flat sides and fit perfectly into the bracket on my nirve frame. Has a clean look with just the button head showing and is easy to take on and off as you just need a wrench for the nut.

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MattiThundrrr said:
Can't remember where I found this one:
"Cleaning: Been using the same thing forever...learned it back in my motorcycle shop days, wash with dishsoap and a soft brush, dry, and then coat it in lemon Pledge and wipe with a clean rag.

Pledge does miracles on scratched, dry paint. Used to buy it by the case to clean the used motorcycles we traded in...works great on faded MX plastics too"
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Try simple green to wash parts. It cleans up a dirty bicycle real nice.
 
hamppea said:
Twist ties to hold cross pair spokes in place when replacing rims with similar ERD values. Use marking tape on either side of the valve hole before removing.

View attachment 173497
I've seen folks use tape at the crossings. Best if the spokes are allowed to slide.
Observe the flange sides for entering spokes in the proper holes. Start around the valve. Wide rims generally have offset spoke holes making it easier to identify which side goes where.

Use ties often, grab a bunch at the market... need to replenish.
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I just tape the old wheel to the new rim so the valve holes match. Then transfer a spoke over one at a time. I learned this from a Norwegian road racer. He used a truingstand and built a new perfect wheel in under 10 minutes. I don’t use a truing stand. This is harder ro do with 20 inch wheels.
hamppea said:
Twist ties to hold cross pair spokes in place when replacing rims with similar ERD values. Use marking tape on either side of the valve hole before removing.

View attachment 173497
I've seen folks use tape at the crossings. Best if the spokes are allowed to slide.
Observe the flange sides for entering spokes in the proper holes. Start around the valve. Wide rims generally have offset spoke holes making it easier to identify which side goes where.

Use ties often, grab a bunch at the market... need to replenish.
Click to expand...
I just tape the old rim to the new so the valve holes match and transfer a spoke at a time, old rim to new until you have transferred them all and you have a new wheel.
109CC3F9-639D-4B00-BBFC-36BFBF70EF49.jpeg
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MattiThundrrr said:
I have a bottle on the shop bench and one at the laundry sink. I like the smell, has notes of absinthe
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Oh man, speaking for one who knows, that stuff is not a substitute for booze. It will clean your guts more than you could ever imagine and your gas will be accompanied by bubbles, if your fortunate to survive.
 
us56456712 said:
Oh man, speaking for one who knows, that stuff is not a substitute for booze. It will clean your guts more than you could ever imagine and your gas will be accompanied by bubbles, if your fortunate to survive.
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Wait, are you talking absinthe or Simple G?

PS don't let the jerks at the other forum chase you off, they're all contrite now that they realize how stupid they looked bagging on an old dude for not meeting their unwritten rules of etiquette.
 
MattiThundrrr said:
Wait, are you talking absinthe or Simple G?

PS don't let the jerks at the other forum chase you off, they're all contrite now that they realize how stupid they looked bagging on an old dude for not meeting their unwritten rules of etiquette.
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I’ll post here where everyone is just trying to be creative, learn from each other and share ideas. I’m still getting inquiries from them which I answer, but I don’t think I’ll post anymore of my experiments there. Today it’s around -12C but I’m going to experiment, build a fire and try furnace brazing the lateral fake Breezer tubes I’m making out of seat stays tacked together. Probably won’t work, but we’ll see. This is the place for this kind of stuff. The guys at the other forum are too mentally stuck so they won’t get it. I’m not saying their dumb, just not creative or imaginative. I can’t be bothered to explain the obvious.
 
us56456712 said:
I just tape the old wheel to the new rim so the valve holes match. Then transfer a spoke over one at a time. I learned this from a Norwegian road racer. He used a truingstand and built a new perfect wheel in under 10 minutes. I don’t use a truing stand. This is harder ro do with 20 inch wheels.

I just tape the old rim to the new so the valve holes match and transfer a spoke at a time, old rim to new until you have transferred them all and you have a new wheel.View attachment 185059View attachment 185060
Click to expand...
This is my favorite tip/ story today.
 

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