I just got a 1993 Trek 930 lug frame that is going to have to be restored. Trek's website says they won't release decals to "civilians". e-bay doesn't seem to have any. Anyone know of a good source, or someone who can reproduce at a reasonable price?
Trek Decals
- Thread starter bigj
- Start date
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Bicycle Refurbishing and Upgrading Tips
This page includes some tips concerning the maintenance, refurbishing and upgrading of vintage bikes. It includes specifications on vintage Treks that can be used to select replacement parts. Included is a list of places where you can get additional information and where to get vintage repair parts. Click on the menu items below to take you to that topic.
Before you start wrenching on a bike that is not new, I strongly suggest you apply a penetrating oil, such as WD-40, Liquid Wrench or Kroil, to anything you want to unscrew without breaking. That little screw may look inexpensive, but replacing it may entail buying a new brake caliper or derailleur. If the part is stuck, applying liberally and waiting overnight can be the best insurance against heartbreak.
SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION
HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT
HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS
BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES
STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS
HELICOMATIC HUBS
PAINT
TREK DECALS
PAINT TOUCH UP
INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME
THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY
CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM
ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING
UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK
CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS
SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS
IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?
SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT BIKE INFORMATION
Sheldon Brown has placed an extraordinary number of excellent bike articles on his web site. See them at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.html.
Perhaps the best source of information on pre-1984 bikes is the Classic Rendezvous discussion list. http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinf ... rendezvous. These are the heavyweights of classic lightweight collecting, so to speak ;-). Many famous members, people with hundreds of bikes, at least one with a thousand bikes. LOTS of information in the archives: http://www.bikelist.org/pipermail/classicrendezvous/ Search there first so that you don't ask a questions that has recently been addressed. Important - Read the rules before posting. Caution - you will get 20 or more emails/day from this list. Dale Brown, of Cycles de ORO, is the owner and tireless moderator of the list.
The oldroads.com Vintage Lightweights Discussion forum is an informal source of information. http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_def.asp?rec_count=1. Few rules there. You can search past posts.
The iBOB discussion list is another good source of information. You will have to join first but it is easy, go to: http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/Internet-bob. iBOB is Bridgestone Owners Bunch, but they have a kinship with old Treks and their owners. Their vintage interest overlaps with the dates of vintage Treks. Cautions: 1. You will get 40 or more emails/day from the list. 2. It is an unmoderated list -the rudeness can be surprising, and the off topic posts are a waste of time.
HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT
Trek Technical Support web contact interface:
http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/contact.php
NOTE: This address changes fairly frequently, If the above does not work, dive into the trekbikes.com site and track it down.
HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS
For most people, before the advent of the Internet, it was difficult to find parts for old bikes. Most of us were not fortunate enough to have a nearby shop that specialized in used bikes and parts. Not everyone had the patience for swap meets or garage sales or knew how to find collectors (their spouses know them as hoarders) of parts who were willing to share.
Buying another used bike to get a needed part is an oft-used technique. However, this usually produces a number of nonfunctional bikes in one's garage; requiring more parts to get them running. This downward spiral results in less and less available garage space.
Now, one can search eBay.com for both used and new old stock (NOS) parts. One can also search for parts for sale on various forums or discussion lists (see the Buy/Sell page for a list of some of these). One also can post a wanted notice on the forum or list describing what you want. Most members of these lists get enjoyment out of placing an unneeded part with a good home; the monetary return is secondary.
There also are online bike component stores that handle NOS or used parts. Here are a few of these stores:
Harris Cyclery - http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/
Loose Screws Bicycle Small Parts - http://www.loosescrews.com/
Bicycle Classics - http://www.bicycleclassics.com/
Rivendell Bicycle Works - http://www.rivendellbicycles.com
Here are some of the leading online bike and bike component stores selling new modern parts:
Performance Bicycle - http://www.performancebike.com/
Bike Nashbar - http://www.nashbar.com/
Colorado Cyclist - http://www.coloradocyclist.com/
Alfred E. Bike - http://aebike.com/
BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES
Seatpost Diameter - Nearly all road Treks prior to the mid 90s have the standard seatpost diameter of 27.2mm. Exceptions are the Model TX300, which has a diameter of 26.8mm, and the Model 170 at 27.4mm. Additionally, a 1985 Model 2000 (aluminum bonded frame) with a 27.4mm seatpost has been reported. For newer Treks, tandems, and mountain bikes, see Sheldon Brown's Seatpost Size Database.
Seat Tube Outside Diameter - 28.6mm or 1 1/8 inches. (The front derailleur clamps onto this tubing size.)
Stem Diameter - 22.2mm (7/8"). This is the current standard size. Vintage Treks came with quill-type stems, rather than the currently-used threadless stem.
A 1982 730 and a 1983 720 have been reported using a stem size of 0.833" (21.15mm); a 22.2 stem was too big. The owner of the 730, Jack Romaine, found that a 22.2 stem would fit into the bottom end of the steerer tube. (Hmmmmm - the plot thickens.) Upper-level steerer tubes are butted (thicker wall size, smaller internal diameter) at the bottom end of the tube. Apparently, Trek fork builders brazed at least two steerer tubes upside down. Jack sanded the I.D. of the upper end of his steerer to make it larger, enabling him to use a 22.2mm stem.
Stem Clamp Diameter (Handlebar Diameter) - The majority of vintage road Treks (drop handlebars) have the standard 26mm size. This includes the Italian-made Belleri bars). An exception is the Cinelli bars and stems which are 26.4mm. Mountain or hybrid bikes (with straight or or raised handlebars) take 25.4mm stems.
Headset - 1" dia. (ISO) headset (the most common standard headset). Vintage Treks take threaded headsets in contrast to the more modern threadless headsets. When replacing the headset, remember that stack height (the vertical space taken up by the headset) is important. You should try to match the old height. If the new height is too tall, you won't be able to screw on the lock nut (big problem). If too short, you will need to add a spacer(s) that you can buy at your LBS (local bike shop).
Bottom Bracket - All are the standard (most common) English/Japanese spec of 68mm wide with threads of 1.37" x 24 TPI.
Rear Dropout Spacing - Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. Spacing went to 130mm with the advent of 8 speed cassettes, which were phased in on Trek bikes from 1991 - 95. Modern 9- and 10-speed road hubs still use the 130mm spacing.
Frame Size - Trek used two measurements for frame size. As their primary measurement, Trek measured their frames in inches from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the top of the top tube. This is called "center to top" or "c to t" or "c-t". Trek also provided a measurement, in centimeters, from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the center of the top tube. This is called "center to center" or "c to c" or "c-c". It is measurement "A" in this drawing. Both of these measurements are taken along the center of the seat tube, not vertically up to the top tube. (Note: The frame geometry drawings in the 84 catalog incorrectly show measure "A" as to the top of the top tube instead of to the center of the top tube.)
Trek made early production vintage Treks in these sizes: 19.75" (or occasionally 19" instead), 21" 22.5, 24" and 25.5". In the late 80s, Trek added 18" and 19" frames and dropped the 19.75" size for some models. Trek custom frames and some upper level racing frames, were typically measured in cm, (cc) although some drawings show frame sizes in cm and mean center to top. Jeff Paterson noticed in the 1981 catalog that the 25.5" Model 610 and 710 are shown with two different "A" measurements, 62 and 63 cm respectively. Rather than being a typo, this probably shows actual differences in the geometries and suggests 25.5" frames are "nominally" that size.
STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS
A common question is: "What is are the differences between the various tubing types used in early Trek bikes." Related to that question is: "How does this affect 'ride quality'?"
In addition to tubing properties, factors such as rider weight and strength, frame size and geometry and frame builder talent affect ride quality. The ride quality experienced by a 150 lb rider on a bike designed for him will be quite different from the experience of a 250 lb rider on that same bike.
The flexibility of a tube is described by it's Young's modulus (also called the modulus of elasticity). The steel alloys used in the various tubesets provided by manufacturers have the same modulus of elasticity, The yield strength and tensile strength (see Table 2) are important properties of the steel used in bike tubing, but come into play only when the frame is stressed enough to be permanently bent or broken.
Tubing diameter affects frame rigidity, but the vast majority of steel frames, including all vintage Trek frames, have the same outside diameter. So - the tubing wall thickness is the tubing characteristic that most strongly affects frame rigidity. Wall thicknesses are given in the Table 1 below:
Table 1 - TUBING WALL THICKNESSES*
Tubing Name
Wall Thickness, mm
Tubeset
Weight**, gm
top
tube
down
tube
seat
tube
fork
blades
chain
stays
seat
stays
Columbus SL
09/06/0.9
09/0.6/0.9
0.6/0.9
0.9
0.7
0.7
1925
Columbus SP
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/1.0
0.7/1.0
1.05
1
1
2295
Ishiwata 022
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6
1
0.8
0.8
2185
Reynolds 501
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6
0.9
0.9
0.9
2300
Reynolds 531, 531C
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.9/0.6/0:9
0.8/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.8
0.8
2050
Reynolds 531CS
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.9/0.6/0:9
0.8/0.5
0.9?
0.9
0.9
2150 (est.)
Reynolds 531P
07/05/0.7
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.7/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.6
0.5
1900
Reynolds 531ST
08/05/0.8
1.0/0.7/1.0
0.8/0.5
1.2/0.8
0.8
0.9
2200
Reynolds 753R
0.1/0.5/0.7
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.7/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.6
0.5
1800
Tange 2001
Mangalloy
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/0.85
1
0.9
0.9
2415
True Temper RC2
0.9/0.6/0.9
09/06/0.9
0.9/0.6
N/A
0.8
0.76/0.97
N/A
Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*
Tubing Name
Tensile strength, psi
Yield Strength, psi
Columbus SP, SL
128,000
107,000
Ishiwata 022
113,790
106,675
Reynolds 501
116,500
?
Reynolds 531
116,500
100,800
Reynolds 753
168,000
134,000
Tange 2001 Mangalloy
112,650
?
True Temper RC2
110,000
?
* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.
**Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.
HELICOMATIC HUBS
Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html.
What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.
PAINT
Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.
Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Spectrum Cycles uses Imron as does Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing and Desperado Cycles. If you know of other painters who do, please let me know.
Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.
Trek will repaint an old Trek but has only the current year graphics and colors to place on it. According to Trek, your local dealer can arrange this.
TREK DECALS
One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals. Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals. You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected].
PAINT TOUCH UP
Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.
Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."
Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with it's own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.
Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well. Currently, browns also are plentiful.
Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.
THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY
Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for many of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985. A clever idea - that has it's supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.
INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME
Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust in the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.
To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .
People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.
A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)
The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.
This page includes some tips concerning the maintenance, refurbishing and upgrading of vintage bikes. It includes specifications on vintage Treks that can be used to select replacement parts. Included is a list of places where you can get additional information and where to get vintage repair parts. Click on the menu items below to take you to that topic.
Before you start wrenching on a bike that is not new, I strongly suggest you apply a penetrating oil, such as WD-40, Liquid Wrench or Kroil, to anything you want to unscrew without breaking. That little screw may look inexpensive, but replacing it may entail buying a new brake caliper or derailleur. If the part is stuck, applying liberally and waiting overnight can be the best insurance against heartbreak.
SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION
HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT
HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS
BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES
STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS
HELICOMATIC HUBS
PAINT
TREK DECALS
PAINT TOUCH UP
INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME
THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY
CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM
ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING
UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK
CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS
SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS
IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?
SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT BIKE INFORMATION
Sheldon Brown has placed an extraordinary number of excellent bike articles on his web site. See them at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.html.
Perhaps the best source of information on pre-1984 bikes is the Classic Rendezvous discussion list. http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinf ... rendezvous. These are the heavyweights of classic lightweight collecting, so to speak ;-). Many famous members, people with hundreds of bikes, at least one with a thousand bikes. LOTS of information in the archives: http://www.bikelist.org/pipermail/classicrendezvous/ Search there first so that you don't ask a questions that has recently been addressed. Important - Read the rules before posting. Caution - you will get 20 or more emails/day from this list. Dale Brown, of Cycles de ORO, is the owner and tireless moderator of the list.
The oldroads.com Vintage Lightweights Discussion forum is an informal source of information. http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_def.asp?rec_count=1. Few rules there. You can search past posts.
The iBOB discussion list is another good source of information. You will have to join first but it is easy, go to: http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/Internet-bob. iBOB is Bridgestone Owners Bunch, but they have a kinship with old Treks and their owners. Their vintage interest overlaps with the dates of vintage Treks. Cautions: 1. You will get 40 or more emails/day from the list. 2. It is an unmoderated list -the rudeness can be surprising, and the off topic posts are a waste of time.
HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT
Trek Technical Support web contact interface:
http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/contact.php
NOTE: This address changes fairly frequently, If the above does not work, dive into the trekbikes.com site and track it down.
HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS
For most people, before the advent of the Internet, it was difficult to find parts for old bikes. Most of us were not fortunate enough to have a nearby shop that specialized in used bikes and parts. Not everyone had the patience for swap meets or garage sales or knew how to find collectors (their spouses know them as hoarders) of parts who were willing to share.
Buying another used bike to get a needed part is an oft-used technique. However, this usually produces a number of nonfunctional bikes in one's garage; requiring more parts to get them running. This downward spiral results in less and less available garage space.
Now, one can search eBay.com for both used and new old stock (NOS) parts. One can also search for parts for sale on various forums or discussion lists (see the Buy/Sell page for a list of some of these). One also can post a wanted notice on the forum or list describing what you want. Most members of these lists get enjoyment out of placing an unneeded part with a good home; the monetary return is secondary.
There also are online bike component stores that handle NOS or used parts. Here are a few of these stores:
Harris Cyclery - http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/
Loose Screws Bicycle Small Parts - http://www.loosescrews.com/
Bicycle Classics - http://www.bicycleclassics.com/
Rivendell Bicycle Works - http://www.rivendellbicycles.com
Here are some of the leading online bike and bike component stores selling new modern parts:
Performance Bicycle - http://www.performancebike.com/
Bike Nashbar - http://www.nashbar.com/
Colorado Cyclist - http://www.coloradocyclist.com/
Alfred E. Bike - http://aebike.com/
BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES
Seatpost Diameter - Nearly all road Treks prior to the mid 90s have the standard seatpost diameter of 27.2mm. Exceptions are the Model TX300, which has a diameter of 26.8mm, and the Model 170 at 27.4mm. Additionally, a 1985 Model 2000 (aluminum bonded frame) with a 27.4mm seatpost has been reported. For newer Treks, tandems, and mountain bikes, see Sheldon Brown's Seatpost Size Database.
Seat Tube Outside Diameter - 28.6mm or 1 1/8 inches. (The front derailleur clamps onto this tubing size.)
Stem Diameter - 22.2mm (7/8"). This is the current standard size. Vintage Treks came with quill-type stems, rather than the currently-used threadless stem.
A 1982 730 and a 1983 720 have been reported using a stem size of 0.833" (21.15mm); a 22.2 stem was too big. The owner of the 730, Jack Romaine, found that a 22.2 stem would fit into the bottom end of the steerer tube. (Hmmmmm - the plot thickens.) Upper-level steerer tubes are butted (thicker wall size, smaller internal diameter) at the bottom end of the tube. Apparently, Trek fork builders brazed at least two steerer tubes upside down. Jack sanded the I.D. of the upper end of his steerer to make it larger, enabling him to use a 22.2mm stem.
Stem Clamp Diameter (Handlebar Diameter) - The majority of vintage road Treks (drop handlebars) have the standard 26mm size. This includes the Italian-made Belleri bars). An exception is the Cinelli bars and stems which are 26.4mm. Mountain or hybrid bikes (with straight or or raised handlebars) take 25.4mm stems.
Headset - 1" dia. (ISO) headset (the most common standard headset). Vintage Treks take threaded headsets in contrast to the more modern threadless headsets. When replacing the headset, remember that stack height (the vertical space taken up by the headset) is important. You should try to match the old height. If the new height is too tall, you won't be able to screw on the lock nut (big problem). If too short, you will need to add a spacer(s) that you can buy at your LBS (local bike shop).
Bottom Bracket - All are the standard (most common) English/Japanese spec of 68mm wide with threads of 1.37" x 24 TPI.
Rear Dropout Spacing - Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. Spacing went to 130mm with the advent of 8 speed cassettes, which were phased in on Trek bikes from 1991 - 95. Modern 9- and 10-speed road hubs still use the 130mm spacing.
Frame Size - Trek used two measurements for frame size. As their primary measurement, Trek measured their frames in inches from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the top of the top tube. This is called "center to top" or "c to t" or "c-t". Trek also provided a measurement, in centimeters, from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the center of the top tube. This is called "center to center" or "c to c" or "c-c". It is measurement "A" in this drawing. Both of these measurements are taken along the center of the seat tube, not vertically up to the top tube. (Note: The frame geometry drawings in the 84 catalog incorrectly show measure "A" as to the top of the top tube instead of to the center of the top tube.)
Trek made early production vintage Treks in these sizes: 19.75" (or occasionally 19" instead), 21" 22.5, 24" and 25.5". In the late 80s, Trek added 18" and 19" frames and dropped the 19.75" size for some models. Trek custom frames and some upper level racing frames, were typically measured in cm, (cc) although some drawings show frame sizes in cm and mean center to top. Jeff Paterson noticed in the 1981 catalog that the 25.5" Model 610 and 710 are shown with two different "A" measurements, 62 and 63 cm respectively. Rather than being a typo, this probably shows actual differences in the geometries and suggests 25.5" frames are "nominally" that size.
STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS
A common question is: "What is are the differences between the various tubing types used in early Trek bikes." Related to that question is: "How does this affect 'ride quality'?"
In addition to tubing properties, factors such as rider weight and strength, frame size and geometry and frame builder talent affect ride quality. The ride quality experienced by a 150 lb rider on a bike designed for him will be quite different from the experience of a 250 lb rider on that same bike.
The flexibility of a tube is described by it's Young's modulus (also called the modulus of elasticity). The steel alloys used in the various tubesets provided by manufacturers have the same modulus of elasticity, The yield strength and tensile strength (see Table 2) are important properties of the steel used in bike tubing, but come into play only when the frame is stressed enough to be permanently bent or broken.
Tubing diameter affects frame rigidity, but the vast majority of steel frames, including all vintage Trek frames, have the same outside diameter. So - the tubing wall thickness is the tubing characteristic that most strongly affects frame rigidity. Wall thicknesses are given in the Table 1 below:
Table 1 - TUBING WALL THICKNESSES*
Tubing Name
Wall Thickness, mm
Tubeset
Weight**, gm
top
tube
down
tube
seat
tube
fork
blades
chain
stays
seat
stays
Columbus SL
09/06/0.9
09/0.6/0.9
0.6/0.9
0.9
0.7
0.7
1925
Columbus SP
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/1.0
0.7/1.0
1.05
1
1
2295
Ishiwata 022
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6
1
0.8
0.8
2185
Reynolds 501
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6/0.9
0.9/0.6
0.9
0.9
0.9
2300
Reynolds 531, 531C
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.9/0.6/0:9
0.8/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.8
0.8
2050
Reynolds 531CS
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.9/0.6/0:9
0.8/0.5
0.9?
0.9
0.9
2150 (est.)
Reynolds 531P
07/05/0.7
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.7/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.6
0.5
1900
Reynolds 531ST
08/05/0.8
1.0/0.7/1.0
0.8/0.5
1.2/0.8
0.8
0.9
2200
Reynolds 753R
0.1/0.5/0.7
0.8/0.5/0.8
0.7/0.5
1.0/0.5
0.6
0.5
1800
Tange 2001
Mangalloy
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/1.0
1.0/0.7/0.85
1
0.9
0.9
2415
True Temper RC2
0.9/0.6/0.9
09/06/0.9
0.9/0.6
N/A
0.8
0.76/0.97
N/A
Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*
Tubing Name
Tensile strength, psi
Yield Strength, psi
Columbus SP, SL
128,000
107,000
Ishiwata 022
113,790
106,675
Reynolds 501
116,500
?
Reynolds 531
116,500
100,800
Reynolds 753
168,000
134,000
Tange 2001 Mangalloy
112,650
?
True Temper RC2
110,000
?
* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.
**Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.
HELICOMATIC HUBS
Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html.
What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.
PAINT
Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.
Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Spectrum Cycles uses Imron as does Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing and Desperado Cycles. If you know of other painters who do, please let me know.
Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.
Trek will repaint an old Trek but has only the current year graphics and colors to place on it. According to Trek, your local dealer can arrange this.
TREK DECALS
One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals. Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals. You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected].
PAINT TOUCH UP
Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.
Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."
Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with it's own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.
Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well. Currently, browns also are plentiful.
Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.
THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY
Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for many of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985. A clever idea - that has it's supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.
INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME
Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust in the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.
To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .
People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.
A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)
The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.
Thanx for all the info. Hopefully I can get some where with this! 
There is a guy who posts on our CL here in Cali with the stickers I think your talking about.Try there,you should be able to pull it up.
