Trike guys...little help?

[Jaypem]

I've got a couple of ideas for three wheelers I want to pursue, but really have no idea where to go for drive train parts...?

 

[fjernt]

There is such a thing as a bolt-on tricycle conversion kit. It's basically a drivetrain and an axle, that you bolt on where the rear wheel would go. I've been looking into these myself lately. It seems like a good way to convert pretty much any bike into a trike. You can find these on ebay and several other sites. If you want to build the frame yourself, you can at the very least scavenge parts from one of these. Hope that helps, good luck!

 

[Fv2]

I agree with fjernt, the kits are simple enough.
But it also depends on how deep into it you want to get.

Depending on where you live, you can check Craigslist or Kijiji, or letgo. Whatever classified sites you have, also swap meets and garage sales, police auctions.Also the for sale thread, might be something there.
Never know when you might find a trike.

Then there's cost.
Personally, I've been lucky with mine. I got one in trade for a set of ape hangers, I paid $75 for one. I bought one of the kits at the local police auction, it was connected to a junk mt bike.
But I also paid $250 for a worksman portatrike once.

If you want to go all new parts, there are lowrider sites like bicycle designer. Or your LBS might be able to get parts for you.

I guess the type of trike you want to find depends on how you want to build it.
Some kits call for hollow hubs, while others allow you to bolt on a regular wheel set.

If you want to try to build the rear end yourself, you could try to find a set of spoked wheel chair wheels. They're usually hollow hub 36 spoke, and can lace them to whatever size rims you want.

Or if you want to get all kinds of crazy, you could get an old lawn tractor and use the rear end of it.

So that was a long winded way of saying... What kind of parts are you wanting?

 

[Jaypem]

I'm interested in doing a truck type of three wheeler.
Really liked the build Pushie Pirate has going on the WBO!

I'll build the frame, maybe 26" front wheel and 20" rear?
Single speed...But geared low.
Or maybe gears, if it winds up looking like a heavy cargo hauler?

I'd like to use a sturdy drive train, but hopefully not too pricey.
Hollow hubs and build the rest sounds like a workable plan...Unless I can find a decent Doner trike of some kind.

Any links to the above mentioned set ups ? Or anyone want to show off their builds here?

 

[Fat Willy]

Here's a sneak peek at this years build off bike. Just something that I noticed bolting on the rear end... it is meant for a ladies bike (smaller rear triangle). So it will have to be modified.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fv2]

Here's the finished link to my b.o. ten bike.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/artemus-riding-into-the-sunset.93146/

Can't find the build thread, but if you zoom in on the first pic you can kinda see how I fit a trailmate rear to a Roadmaster frame.

 

[Fat Willy]

Here's the finished link to my b.o. ten bike.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/artemus-riding-into-the-sunset.93146/

Can't find the build thread, but if you zoom in on the first pic you can kinda see how I fit a trailmate rear to a Roadmaster frame.

That's amazing! Why would I have thought I would be the only one with a CWC trike!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jaypem]

I checked out the bike designer site. They've got a good selection of different sized hollow hub wheels. Anyone know what the quality is like with these?
Looks like you pop a cog on a shaft, bolt the hollow hub wheels on, add a couple of pillow blocks and you've got a drive.

This would be good for a single speed set up, and be sturdy, but is there a better way?
Would the drive off of a nice used trike work better?

 

[Fv2]

I'll get you pictures of my trikes tomorrow.
Using the rear of a factory trike can be a bit heavy, but if you made a multi speed jackshaft it would help.

The bolt on kits are quite a bit lighter, could use a jackshaft with those too. Just all depends on how you build.

I honestly can't give much about bicycle designer, I've only ever bought a single wheel from them. The chrome isn't the best quality, but the wheel is study enough.

 

[Bicycle808]

I like a trike rear end to have a diff, so you can brake....

Lots of trike parts here: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/me...71c4c04554917f1c72f&Store_Code=hb&Screen=PLST Look under "Parts," not "tricycles".... b/c those are just completes. A lot of trike bits under wheels and hubs and stuff....

 

[Fv2]

That's a good link to have, completely forgot about husky.

 

[Danssoslow]

All of my rear end parts were purchased from Husky. The shipping is quick. Staton Inc. is awesome for oddball stuff.

If you are close to Louisville, KY, there has been a Trailmate Desoto on Offer Up floating around for about a month for $75.

 

[Fv2]

Here are some not so good pics of different rear set ups.

The bolt on kits.

The wheels just bolt into dropouts.
But on one side you bolt the cog in.

Then there's the split axle with hollow hub setup.

And the solid axle hollow hub setup.

Finally, the worksman portatrike.

It has a solid axle that has a jackshaft style setup, then to the internal 3 speed.


For lightweight, the bolt on kits are best.
The portatrike rear end alone would be light enough.

The solid and split axle rear ends are pretty heavy, and you have to build a multi speed jackshaft.

Hope this helps.

 

[Jaypem]

I like a trike rear end to have a diff, so you can brake....

Lots of trike parts here: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/me...71c4c04554917f1c72f&Store_Code=hb&Screen=PLST Look under "Parts," not "tricycles".... b/c those are just completes. A lot of trike bits under wheels and hubs and stuff....

Just wondering how this hub works?
I like brakes too!

Thanks for the links and pocs, there's definately some stuff to work with here.
Probably not going with the bolt on, but do want to learn more about the other set ups.

 

[Fv2]

That hub is basically its own jackshaft.
Your BB chain runs to the cog around the hub shell, then another chain runs from the drive cog to the rear axle.
That allows you to use the internal geared hub and the coaster brake.

I agree with 808 on wanting rear brakes on a trike, otherwise you have to rely on a fork mount brake. That can sometimes lead to flintstoneing.

 

[Bicycle808]

That hub is basically its own jackshaft.
Your BB chain runs to the cog around the hub shell, then another chain runs from the drive cog to the rear axle.
That allows you to use the internal geared hub and the coaster brake.

I agree with 808 on wanting rear brakes on a trike, otherwise you have to rely on a fork mount brake. That can sometimes lead to flintstoneing.

hmmm....The way i always see'm hooked up is: the primary drivechain runs from your front sprocket (crank) to the sprocket on the diff. hub's driver. The sprocket affixed to the hubshell drives the sprocket on the rear axle. That allows for easy chainline, and it also allows everything to coast, brake and (in the case of an IGH) shift normally. I think that if the driver's sprocket were attached to the axle, then the cranks would need to turn whenever the rear wheels were rolling (like a fixed gear), but when you turned the pedals, the driver would allow the diff. hub to spin without engaging the rear axle drive, b/c of the driver's coast function...

But, now that i'm thinking about it, my head is spinning and i'm second guessing myself... what IF we were to hook the fixed sprocket to the crank, and the driver's sprocket to the axle?? I think i'm right, but now....

 

[Bicycle808]

Just wondering how this hub works?
I like brakes too!

Thanks for the links and pocs, there's definately some stuff to work with here.
Probably not going with the bolt on, but do want to learn more about the other set ups.

See above on how the diff works...

If i were you, i'd watch CL for a cheap old trike, and buy it to tinker with, modify, and/or pillage for parts.

 

[Fv2]

hmmm....The way i always see'm hooked up is: the primary drivechain runs from your front sprocket (crank) to the sprocket on the diff. hub's driver. The sprocket affixed to the hubshell drives the sprocket on the rear axle. That allows for easy chainline, and it also allows everything to coast, brake and (in the case of an IGH) shift normally. I think that if the driver's sprocket were attached to the axle, then the cranks would need to turn whenever the rear wheels were rolling (like a fixed gear), but when you turned the pedals, the driver would allow the diff. hub to spin without engaging the rear axle drive, b/c of the driver's coast function...

But, now that i'm thinking about it, my head is spinning and i'm second guessing myself... what IF we were to hook the fixed sprocket to the crank, and the driver's sprocket to the axle?? I think i'm right, but now....

You're right, I mis thought and mis typed. Looking at the picture of my portatrike, that is the setup.

Thinking about it, you wouldn't notice the gear change if the crank connected to the shell.

 

[Bicycle808]

You're right, I mis thought and mis typed. Looking at the picture of my portatrike, that is the setup.

Thinking about it, you wouldn't notice the gear change if the crank connected to the shell.

Exactly, b/c it wouldn't even drive the wheel.... the diff hub would spin, but the driver would "coast"....you'd effectively have an exercise bike. But if you started rolling downhill, you'd be forced to turn the pedals in time with the rear end, b/c coasting would be disabled...

 

[Bicycle808]

ps-- wouldn't engage the coaster brake properly, either....