- Joined
- Aug 21, 2024
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 14
Having issues with my rear wheels, but Standard Suggestons* don't really apply and Simple Solutions* are anything but. Not all trykes are made the same and this is especially true when it comes to the rear ends. Because the build is so different, routine maintenence and basic part replacement can be more complicated than it seems. My tryke has presented a plethora of challenges for me, partly because I never had one before and partly because I have ideas that do not recognize the limits of my experience.
Several modifications have been made so far, but the rear wheels have to be dealt with in order to actually be able to take this thing out riding. Normally, having a wheel slightly out of true is not great, but when there's 2 wheels on 1 axis and both are even barely out of true, it amplifies the problem exponentially. Not being able to swap out parts easily due to unavailability of these parts creates a whole 'nother nightmare. I made a small list of normal, logical, apparent *SS's, followed by why they're not *SS's after all.
SS #1 Why can't you just true the wheels? Right, But...Flanges on hubs have taken abuse and show slight anomalies in shape, while the hoops themselves may be warped and could also be blamed for wheels being un-true. Not sure they can be trued at this point.
SS #2 Change the whole wheel? Good idea! Easy if the hubs are normal, but they're not, not even close, and after looking extensively, no replacements have been located. The current hubs affix to the axle by cotterpin or similar, and do not move independant of the axle like normally seen.
SS #3 Get new hoops & re-lace the wheels, and why not go with 26" hoops instead of 24"? Again, good idea! But, if the hubs are bent from abuse, the wheels still may not true, PLUS because the hubs are 28 spoke, and 26" hoops start at 32 spoke, it's either 24" hoops and hope they'll true or replace the hubs, but see answer to SS #2.
There must be a solution to this, I just have yet to find it. Finding replacement hubs would be a start, even better would be a 26" solution, but whatever works will do. If lacing the wheel from parts keeps the cost down, even better. A consideration for one's budget is always in play.
Several modifications have been made so far, but the rear wheels have to be dealt with in order to actually be able to take this thing out riding. Normally, having a wheel slightly out of true is not great, but when there's 2 wheels on 1 axis and both are even barely out of true, it amplifies the problem exponentially. Not being able to swap out parts easily due to unavailability of these parts creates a whole 'nother nightmare. I made a small list of normal, logical, apparent *SS's, followed by why they're not *SS's after all.
SS #1 Why can't you just true the wheels? Right, But...Flanges on hubs have taken abuse and show slight anomalies in shape, while the hoops themselves may be warped and could also be blamed for wheels being un-true. Not sure they can be trued at this point.
SS #2 Change the whole wheel? Good idea! Easy if the hubs are normal, but they're not, not even close, and after looking extensively, no replacements have been located. The current hubs affix to the axle by cotterpin or similar, and do not move independant of the axle like normally seen.
SS #3 Get new hoops & re-lace the wheels, and why not go with 26" hoops instead of 24"? Again, good idea! But, if the hubs are bent from abuse, the wheels still may not true, PLUS because the hubs are 28 spoke, and 26" hoops start at 32 spoke, it's either 24" hoops and hope they'll true or replace the hubs, but see answer to SS #2.
There must be a solution to this, I just have yet to find it. Finding replacement hubs would be a start, even better would be a 26" solution, but whatever works will do. If lacing the wheel from parts keeps the cost down, even better. A consideration for one's budget is always in play.
