Tryke this on for size

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Having issues with my rear wheels, but Standard Suggestons* don't really apply and Simple Solutions* are anything but. Not all trykes are made the same and this is especially true when it comes to the rear ends. Because the build is so different, routine maintenence and basic part replacement can be more complicated than it seems. My tryke has presented a plethora of challenges for me, partly because I never had one before and partly because I have ideas that do not recognize the limits of my experience.
Several modifications have been made so far, but the rear wheels have to be dealt with in order to actually be able to take this thing out riding. Normally, having a wheel slightly out of true is not great, but when there's 2 wheels on 1 axis and both are even barely out of true, it amplifies the problem exponentially. Not being able to swap out parts easily due to unavailability of these parts creates a whole 'nother nightmare. I made a small list of normal, logical, apparent *SS's, followed by why they're not *SS's after all.
SS #1 Why can't you just true the wheels? Right, But...Flanges on hubs have taken abuse and show slight anomalies in shape, while the hoops themselves may be warped and could also be blamed for wheels being un-true. Not sure they can be trued at this point.
SS #2 Change the whole wheel? Good idea! Easy if the hubs are normal, but they're not, not even close, and after looking extensively, no replacements have been located. The current hubs affix to the axle by cotterpin or similar, and do not move independant of the axle like normally seen.
SS #3 Get new hoops & re-lace the wheels, and why not go with 26" hoops instead of 24"? Again, good idea! But, if the hubs are bent from abuse, the wheels still may not true, PLUS because the hubs are 28 spoke, and 26" hoops start at 32 spoke, it's either 24" hoops and hope they'll true or replace the hubs, but see answer to SS #2.

There must be a solution to this, I just have yet to find it. Finding replacement hubs would be a start, even better would be a 26" solution, but whatever works will do. If lacing the wheel from parts keeps the cost down, even better. A consideration for one's budget is always in play.

 

[twojs.bike]

I am making a mental note to never work on a trike. I never have.

There have been others in this site with similar trike problems. I don’t recall if they were ever resolved.

I believe the rear wheels on trikes take a lot of sideways force. The rims are likely bent.

My thought is to remove the hubs, and re lace the wheels with new spokes and rims. Have you been able to remove the cotter pins? If not I have some ideas. In my opinion removing the cotter pins is the next step.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

I thank you for your reply. The wheels are easily removed from the rear, the cotter pins were never NOT removable. The bolt thru the hub and axle is in place of the HUGE cotter pin that was there. You are quite correct about the side force which is another reason the hubs are different- They are made of steel and are quite the heavy duty steel at that, as seen in the pic. New hoops and new spokes and nipples may be what I ultimately do, but I think I'm limited to 24" hoops, whereas I thought while I was rebuilding the wheels, I might upgrade to 26", But hoops vs. hubs spokehole count is not same at the 26"size, only the 24"size. I (all of a sudden) guess the 24" size might take the side force better than larger wheels. I really am surprised at the lack of results in my search for replacements for the hubs themselves, I've literally found none. I appreciate your comment. This is the other wheel:

 

[twojs.bike]

I just looked at the pictures in your other thread. Cool trike. Now I do want one!

Do you know the history of it? Look like someone built it out of an old mountain bike. Cool gear box.

How bad are the wheels? They didn’t look too bad in the pictures.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Thanx! When I first got it there was a beasty old-looking frame attached to it. By "it", I mean the rear end. I looked it over when I first got it and realized that the front end and the rear end could be separated, so first thing I did was get them apart. The Gary Fischer was my casual rider MTB and with loosening a few bolts and putting the MTB wheel back on it, it can be original in about 10 minutes. The real star of the show is that rear end which can be bolted to not any, but MANY conventional bike frames and Voila! a (enter brand name here) Tryke is born. It was almost a KHS or a Cannondale, but the GF was right there and bolted up great first try. It was an in-hub style 3-speed when I got it, but not knowing that I couldn't, I completely rebuilt one of the rear axles, and turned it into a 24-speed psycho-tryke. There are a couple adjustments that still need to be addressed for the thing to utilize all 24, but it will shift into all of them. The differential does allow each wheel to be powered like a car is where whichever wheel has the less drag gets the power. Tilt it to one side and the wheel off the ground spins, tilt to the other side blah blah same same. Kind of a trip that if the axle is moving the wheels are too. I tell people that ask about it that the Wheels don't turn, the axle does, and there are no bearings in the rear wheels, but they do roll. I am often the recipient of very blank stares.