They're not any better than walmart paint for this application. The Montana stinks like heck too, the Ironlak wasn't so bad but it took forever to dry. It peels like crazy if you don't let it COMPLETELY dry. I'm talking 3 days or so. Also the sprayers sucked, I followed the directions on both brands and it splotched no matter what I did.
types of rattle can paint
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They're not any better than walmart paint for this application. The Montana stinks like heck too, the Ironlak wasn't so bad but it took forever to dry. It peels like crazy if you don't let it COMPLETELY dry. I'm talking 3 days or so. Also the sprayers sucked, I followed the directions on both brands and it splotched no matter what I did.
Ironlak type of paint won't work. It's very chalky and it fades. It's for artwork stuff, it's not for metal restoration. I like enamel paint Krylon & Rust Oleum. I do my painting in the summer. when its 95 + degrees outside. I do light layers and that heat bakes it and cures it very well.
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for flat black that covers easy and dries quick i use walmarts own 96 cent paint! the grey primer is good too! but like stated make sure your item being painted is warm and your paint is warm! i also use my car as a baking oven right after painting! works great! i also use krylon for colors!
Another fail for Krylon...
I bought a can of a fern-like green to do the trim on this bike. Well it it wouldn't flow out and lay flat on top the black finish, and it wouldn't cover without ridiculous number of recoats...
So I tried Duplicolor engine enamel and it worked better in every respect.
How many times do I have to say never again...
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/just-foolin-around-1941-colson.78405/
I bought a can of a fern-like green to do the trim on this bike. Well it it wouldn't flow out and lay flat on top the black finish, and it wouldn't cover without ridiculous number of recoats...
So I tried Duplicolor engine enamel and it worked better in every respect.
How many times do I have to say never again...
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/just-foolin-around-1941-colson.78405/
I sprayed my Roadmaster project with Rustoleum rattle can, Canvas White.(Which of course they only sold in Michigan when I was picking colors. and not in Texas now that I need more......) I topcoated the white and the blue on the forks with their Crystal Clear.. I tried to bake the paint in front of my Gas space heater but.....I still managed to mar the paint in a few spots where it wasn't dry enough. I left it alone for a few weeks and now it seems to be toughened up...but...it seemed to take a very long time even with the extra heat to cure. The clear also got a bunch flatter over time, it looked like glass when I sprayed it. I have a feeling the cold temperatures right after I painted didn't help. I let it flash off in 50 degree air temps and it got even colder before I brought the parts inside to cure the next day.
The clear pulled off the white when I was checking out my masking patterns for the two tone. Hopefully it will let me wetsand it smooth and not go thru the white, so I can do the second color..then clear again this time I will wait and wet sand the color first.
The clear seemed really fragile...which is just the opposite of what I expected.
The clear pulled off the white when I was checking out my masking patterns for the two tone. Hopefully it will let me wetsand it smooth and not go thru the white, so I can do the second color..then clear again this time I will wait and wet sand the color first.
The clear seemed really fragile...which is just the opposite of what I expected.
I agree with Menzorro.. SEM is a quality product unlike the generic rattle can. It takes more prep, their primers (mostly the high build) are tough and quick drying and thier paint is chemically matched to their primers. Drying time is a little longer but it retains a smoother and better gloss finish. If not going custom (Roth, House of Color) I only use SEM.
Bringing up an old thread. I like SEM products as stated above. They are extremely durable, But expensive. However I recently decided to do faux patina on a new tank to match a 39 Columbia. The hues are numerous and an odd color to begin with. That being the case, I felt I needed a wide range of colors. I ended up trying Valspar from Lowes Home Improvement due to price and accessibility. For a spray can paint, it is extremely easy to work with. No problem with recoats or layering different shades over each other with little wait time between coats. Also did not react negatively to use of other brands over it. I use water when doing faux patina jobs, and this paint held up fine to use with water, which is not always the case with spray paint. I have used a lot of spray paints, but Valspar really surprised me in terms of ease of use, layering, mixing, use with water, etc. Durability has not been tested yet, as the project is still ongoing. But I used krylon primer on pre-rusted metal, krylon in one base shade, Valspar in two base shades (even on a wet rag), then krylon and Walmart brands on a wet rag over the Valspar which was not fully cured. I had no wrinkling or removal, no peeling or otherwise negative response. I will likely try Valspar on future projects, especially with the numerous shades available. It makes it easier to simulate fading or darkening.
I bought some Duplicolor black metallic spray paint last night and was very impressed! I was pretty bummed about one of my frames being metallic (little flakes) instead of just gloss black. Long story short the rattle can stuff matched!
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Also I painted a seat post last week with Krylon Fusion spray paint and so far that's done pretty good. I always thought the Fusion paint was for plastic.
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Watch your recoat times now that it is summer and the paint gets dry so quickly...
The instructions on the Duplicolor engine enamel I just used on a valve cover for my bud's 66 Ford say: 2 light coats followed by one medium coat to prevent sags and runs....apply all (3) coats within one hour, allowing ten minutes between coats. After an hour for additional coats wait 7 days for the paint to fully cure.
If the directions sound anything like this the paint has a recoat time that if ignored can result in lifting of the already sprayed paint...no amount of flooding on more paint will eliminate all the lifting and wrinkling..I waited too long on the valve cover and now have a slightly wrinkle finish job....The only cure is to wet sand it smooth and repaint, this time waiting 7 days to do it. Or, I could strip back to bare metal and reshoot.
The instructions on the Duplicolor engine enamel I just used on a valve cover for my bud's 66 Ford say: 2 light coats followed by one medium coat to prevent sags and runs....apply all (3) coats within one hour, allowing ten minutes between coats. After an hour for additional coats wait 7 days for the paint to fully cure.
If the directions sound anything like this the paint has a recoat time that if ignored can result in lifting of the already sprayed paint...no amount of flooding on more paint will eliminate all the lifting and wrinkling..I waited too long on the valve cover and now have a slightly wrinkle finish job....The only cure is to wet sand it smooth and repaint, this time waiting 7 days to do it. Or, I could strip back to bare metal and reshoot.
I had to wetsand and respray a fender last night, it wrinkled instantly (darn southern heat).
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I thought the same thing. Nozzle seemed odd at first, like no response, but then full blast. Just took a second to adjust and get used to, now I like it better. Also on the dry time. Dry to the touch in no time.
Whatever you guys do don't buy the regular Rustoleum satin black! The nozzle bleeds like mad and the paint stays tacky forever (regardless the temp).
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I've ditched Rustoleum completely. Even the primer stays tacky. And no matter how much you shake it, it is inconsistent. And every can I've tried is one-time-use, as the outlet tube that the nozzle sits on will clog within the first use. Nozzle is fine when tried on another can, and pressing the outlet tube down by hand yields no results. I've tried shaking, letting the can sit in hot water, nothing works. Just a bad product. There are too many good primers out there to waste time on Rustoleum.
Only time I've had luck with Rustoleum was with thin layers of there "painters touch ultra cover" and I preheated the parts in an over before painting and then after they stopped stinking I baked them again (used to have an electric oven in the garage for stuff like this)
Otherwise no luck with there products.
Best thing is to stick to flat paints then use a good clear coat (that's a pita as every time I find a clear I like I can never find it again)
Otherwise no luck with there products.
Best thing is to stick to flat paints then use a good clear coat (that's a pita as every time I find a clear I like I can never find it again)
Rustoleum Satin Black -- I thought I just got a bad batch last summer so I'm glad to see it wasn't just me! Painted some tube doors for my Jeep and that stuff was still tacky 48 hours later -- I wound up sanding the fingerprints off and reshooting with their flat black and I was driving around with my elbow on one door 24 hours later with no problem.
Rustoleum Flat Black over their Flat Black Auto Primer, on the other hand -- I used those for my bike project this summer and so far it has worked out quite nicely. Just got a couple of compliments on the paint job yesterday, in fact! I've thought about a flat clear coat over it but I'm half-afraid to mess up what's currently a good thing.
Rustoleum Flat Black over their Flat Black Auto Primer, on the other hand -- I used those for my bike project this summer and so far it has worked out quite nicely. Just got a couple of compliments on the paint job yesterday, in fact! I've thought about a flat clear coat over it but I'm half-afraid to mess up what's currently a good thing.
