UCB Hub Project- Bendix Original Rebuild

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CRASH said:
I got mine apart. Not exactly like the instructions (I don't have a dust cover... then the other side slipped out and bearings when flying that I can't find...) but other than that... at least it's apart! :D

I'm sure I can replace the bearings. Currently it's all soaking in kerosene. Tomorrow I'll clean it up and inspect the internals. It had a lot of back and forth slop in it before I pulled it apart.

What should I be inspecting for wear and damage?

Check the bearings, races, and cones for pitting. Check the internal surfaces for cracks. Check the brake shoes for excessive wear.
 
The assembly below, it came apart whole. I don't see how to get it apart.

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Done. There was so much built up dirt/old grease/corrosion, that it was stuck like solid. I bent the dust cover a bit, but think I can tap it back into shape.

Last disassembly question: I don't have a cone wrench big enough, or a regular wrench thin enough to get in to this race nut. I cleaned it up, but do you think it would be ok to leave? I have 2 concerns: 1) The hub is getting relaced, so will that change anything for the centering, requiring a movement of that race? 2) There is some thread damage to the axle. Hopefully you can see some of it in the pic, but it doesn't seem to be dramatic, I just wanted a second opinion on it.


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What about greasing this whole thing? What did you guys use and how much? I used Finish Line Teflon based grease on last coaster brake I did. 1990's? Schwinn Falcon.
 
I like white lithium grease most of the time. If you live in an area with lots of hills I would use a heavier grease. The lithium grease turns to liquid at a lower temp than most other greases and will burn off in one good down hill run. You can use just about any grease you like, I have also used blue brake rotor grease, black all purpose grease, green Teflon grease, and some kind of dark blue railroad grease. Shoot, some of the original service manuals I have seen recommend petroleum jelly.
 
sktenspeed said:
What about greasing this whole thing? What did you guys use and how much?
I use Phil Wood waterproof bearing grease. I have a tube from waaaaaaaay back when I worked in a bike shop. When I run out of that... I'll probably buy more. :lol:

I fill the bearing cages, then I coat the whole cage, then I coat the race. When I put it all together I just wipe off what squishes out. That may be excessive for cruisers, but for old school MTB bikes in the days before sealed bearings, that's how we did business.
 
I don't know why but mine started to turn white and now it would not shine again. The brake arm started to rust and everything was put away in a box.
 
gcrank1 said:
Ax, you got some kind of chemical reaction going there........residue from a cleaning solvent maybe? Did you use 'Brake Clean'?


No I didn't use any brake clean. Maybe one of these days I'll try to polish it again
 
udallcustombikes said:
The lithium grease turns to liquid at a lower temp than most other greases and will burn off in one good down hill run.

the data I've seen on white lithium grease reports that it has an operating temperature range of -15 degrees (F) to 300F.

do coaster hubs get hotter than that inside?
 
huh. I learned something today. And disc/drum brake wheel bearing grease is rated to about 520'F.

had no idea bearings got that hot.
 
udallcustombikes said:
ratina said:
Do you grease everything inside? Mines squeeling a little and I pulled it apart again and put more grease and its still doing it

When is it squealing? Pedaling? Coasting? Breaking? All of the above?

When braking, not every time. I put more grease and it seems to have went away. Just wondering what should go in there, I know some hubs take oil.
 
udallcustombikes said:
The Bendix hubs use grease. The type of grease doesn't really matter much. Sometimes the shoes will get a glazing on them. I will buff the friction surface of the shoes with some 2000 grit wet/dry to remove the glaze.

that could be it, I will try that next time. I have a few more of these hubs laying around
 

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