Unofficial March Shootout II

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No advantage to either, both have non replaceable chainrings. Are they both 170 mm crank arm length? Neither has offset teeth to make index shifting more percisle. Both gotta have 6/16 pedal threading. Check the pedal threads and the threads by the square taper. Are the chain lines the same for each? The chain line is measured from the center of the down tube to the inside edge of the middle chainring. The chain line determines the spindle offset for an asymertical spindle. They probably have the same chain line, 45 mm, perhaps 50?
Yes, both have 170mm cranks and take the same 9/16" size pedals. I figured they were probably pretty equally rated, possibly low end, especially with the rivets holding the sprockets together. I guess I will just use the original parts.

Thanks us56456712.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
View attachment 114759 KP
Trying to decide between these . A S3S with freewheel or SA SRC3 + with coaster brake . Was also looking at spoke calculators , has anybody built a 1.75 wheel using one of these ?
You could use the one on the sapim website, that's pretty reliable.

Or you could is this:

Measure the erd, add the rim thickness twice.

Substract the hub flange diameter, measured on the outside of the holes.

Divide by 2.

This is your basesize.

For a 3 cross pattern, add 30 percent of the size of the hub flange

For a 4 cross pattern add 45 percent of the size of the hub flange.

Example

Erd is 610 mm
Rim thickness is 2.5 mm

Hub flange is 55 mm

610+5-55= 560 mm

Divide by 2 = 265

Add 30 % of 55 = 16.5

Spoke size is 265 + 16.5 = 281.5

So you take spoke 282



Verstuurd vanaf mijn motorola one met Tapatalk
 
upload_2020-3-7_16-49-32.jpeg

I used a calculator that you input the Rim manufacture and model then a hub manufacture and model , then it spit out a size ? The spokes I ordered came in a few days ago , will see ?
 
Last edited:
Know when to Fold'em...

I checked on my Amazon order for the Schwalbe tires the other day and noticed on the UPS site the tires were to ship to some place in Louisiana, not little ol' Willow Spring, NC. Contacted the vendor and they apologized and will resend the order to the right address. So will have to wait awhile longer to change the tires.
Got the bottom bracket back together and installed the crank set. New pedals came in today. Was going to get folding pedals like what came on the bike originally, but couldn't find anything that looked like they would hold up in an off road environment, so I bought some BMX pedals instead.

I like how more red has faded out on one side than the other.
5e9914f6c4fe18ec7dd46edc593995c1.jpg
c6e1d7decc2c0a467c925a85f2225620.jpg
176e38d69d56a8e021aa0ec941d33297.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
You KNOW I want to try that!

The original V brakes were stamped steel. The original crank was steel. Junk original pedals. Original 700c x 38 mm tires that measure 33mm. Canti brakes fit the brake mounts and can be adjusted to work on the original rims. The tires I’m using are 29 x 1.95 which measure 44mm on the original wheels. They are low profile tires and nothing bigger will fit. The original BMX freewheel is better than average for a cheap bike as it is slotted so it an be removed. Frame size is 22 inches. I used old road bars and stem and brake levers with safety levers. I used a Tange head set. A sealed B.B. would be a good thing but I’ll try and use the original. I used a old alloy 5 arm double chain wheel crank with a single 44 tooth sprocket. The chain line was fine tuned with a washer on the crank bolts. Bar wrap is foam pipe insulation covered with cloth hockey stick tape. I plan to use mountain bike clip less pedals. I should have my chain next week.
 
I'm in?

I haven't seen any special designation for the BigBoxStore mini build off...but, I'll do that if it exists...

... cobwebs and all...came from deep in the dungeon...no obvious evidence of mouse intrusion :tmi:.
IMG_20200307_185415934.jpg


...a little peek :nod:.
IMG_20200307_185510460.jpg

Any guess to which dirt cheap Walhuffy is in there?

ISM004
 
Last edited:
I'm in?

I haven't seen any special designation for the BigBoxStore mini build off...but, I'll do that if it exists...

... cobwebs and all...came from deep in the dungeon...no obvious evidence of mouse intrusion :tmi:.
View attachment 114980

...a little peek :nod:.
View attachment 114979
Any guess to which dirt cheap Walhuffy is in there?
The vintage Red Rider one with tires and seat ?
 
@handyandy1100 the two tone paint reminds me of Trimble's "Split Personality" paint scheme, different colors on either side!
Hard to show in pictures, but black on one side, white on the other
View attachment 114982 View attachment 114983
Can be handy when commiting a crime.
"I saw it officer, he rode away on a red bike!"
"Did any of you men see a red bike?"
"All we saw captain, was some dude on a white bike."

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
I'm in?

I haven't seen any special designation for the BigBoxStore mini build off...but, I'll do that if it exists...
No, my friend there is no BigBoxStore buildoff per se. Just a subset of our little buildoff here. Most of us are using cheaper box store bikes, mine is a Sam's Club exclusive. Anyone that wants to could offer a trophy for their own BigBoxBike choice if they wanted. I'm creating a trophy cup for the winner of the voting in April.

Carl.
 
...I used a calculator that you input the Rim manufacture and model then a hub manufacture and model , then it spit out a size ? The spokes I ordered came in a few days ago , will see ?
Good if you use a manufacturer that's on their list...
I doubt my crusty 1930's rims qualify.

Oh my. How can something as simple as a bicycle spoke be so complicated to figure out?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Oh my, how many manufacturers of rims AND hubs can be combined into how many versions of wheel? But it's not complicated just specific. You can use math or a spoke calculator or created lists to figure your spokes for a custom application. Or you can just use existing wheels if it's to overwhelming or if your build doesn't call for anything special.

Carl.
 
It's so cool, some of you guys are cooking along on your bikes. Me, I'm just waiting on parts. I do need to scruffy up the powder coated paint on mine, so the next color has some tooth to bite into. but the other dozen things I'm involved in are taking up my free time. Wednesday is the shipping target date on my spokes and the new fork... I also need to source a bigger sprocket and crank arms for my 3 piece. The dinky one on there won't push the 3 speed very hard... and even though I ride with the Chicago Taildraggers and it's mostly cruising, I still like to kick it down the road. (at some point me n' @Pookie42 need to run a tiebreaker, I got him in a Stingray race a couple years ago and he smoked me in a rolling start last year)

Carl. :eek:
 
Got my tires in today
28efd523c5f5ee11fdb21e6584425c25.jpg

I have an idea how to adjust the fenders. With the back I’m going to put a big washer fasten it to the rear axle then drill holes to attach the fender braces
8ce9837f8555b4e4b19547b24404ddfe.jpg
01c6ced0fbb4aeda9def24fef39768e2.jpg
53f58df1369756e83dd0a66ea005d0ac.jpg

The front fender I can drill a hole in the front brace but the bottom one I’m short 2 1/2”
df49daf853f670285b1674a85f875757.jpg
0344f32fdf1456ce3049064ac9a76aba.jpg
4491a693ac14f517443ea4220b7ed568.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

I have cut off the end of the brace and over lapped another brace with the end attached. You can hold them together with sheet metal screws and tack them together and then grind off the sheet metal screw head and tack the screw and file flat. If you don’t have a welder just leave the sheet metal screws in place.
 
ISM004

Unpacking day!
IMG_20200308_141744823.jpg


So, both of my daughters, as adults, have bought boxed Walmart Schwinns, and they generally had good welds, put together decently, lubed, etc. I have bought a Walgoose...and it was generally the same...I thought both the headset and bottom bracket were light on grease, but the were greased. This is my first Walhuffy :39:. First thought, well packed. Second thought, WTH!
IMG_20200308_141913482.jpg


Fender bridge massively crooked...as well as the 'integrated' (tacked on) seat clamp :doh:.

Closer look with the fenders off. Seriously, how does this happen?
IMG_20200308_152313118.jpg


Couldn't find my wrench to remove the cranks. Slid wheels and fork together to get an idea of stance...
IMG_20200308_155335314.jpg


:39:... skeptical. I think that is too much fork (29" monocog). I will probably try a 26" monocog fork.

I should have just waited to pick up one of these used...but, I really wanted the orange and it was only $99 at the time. The paint is already pretty shot as it was obviously assembled before the paint dried. Headset was lightly greased, but was so tight I couldn't turn the forks with one hand. The bottom bracket spins...but not freely. Fenders and chainguard are so thin they bend looking at them crooked.

I just want to say that I'm sorry. Everytime I heard one of those BigBoxStore bike horror stories, I just assumed y'all were too picky as my experiences 'weren't bad.' Well...I now see the light...:blackeye:.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top