
Yes!!!
The start:

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I knew it would look wickedThanks to the idea from @ingola , I decided to give it a go. Granny is out of retirement!
This evening I got the bike in pieces in about half an hour.
I can't imagine this going to the scrapyard... the bike rides great (rear tire empties very slowly), nothing is worn or rusted badly.
Everything came of easy and the bottom bracket bearing turns perfectly smooth.
Pictures:
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Smooth
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Lets Goo!!
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Clean threads! Like new.
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Perfectly rusted cone. Time's signature.
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Flipped frame!!
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Looking good.
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I have this lying about. USA bottom bracket pot.
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And cranks!
I have some neat ideas and no plans regarding looks yet. I'll let it evolve.
I thought about that and then I looked in my shed for spaceOh, leave the crank where it is, add a second frame on top and have a tall bike!![]()
I knew it would look wicked
If I'm guessing right this will become some overengineered completely bonkers but awesome contraption...These parts fit on a stock JIS square taper shaft and a push-on three slot sprocket will fit perfectly.
Stay tuned to see where this is going
This gon' be awesome!e
*Laughs hysterically* Yes!If I'm guessing right this will become some overengineered completely bonkers but awesome contraption...
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Thank you, I appreciate it.Why a 4° conical fit, instead of a straight press or shrink fit? I'm just learning about some of this stuff so curious. I have a small little old Craftsman 6x18 lathe bought off a coworker and I need to get it up and running, this is inspiration!
Let's see...cog driver with a square taper...my guess is some sort of layshaft. Will be easy to swap around ratios! And you mention chain tensioning, so I suppose it'll go into an eccentric maybe, for managing tension to the crankset's chainwheel...which must be on the left unless you're flipping the rear wheel too.....this is going to be wild.
Who do I talk to about getting a "totally confused" emoji added to our list?![]()
That is not a bad idea...! Thanks!I like it. Flipped like that, it looks almost like a 2 bar swing bike.
Thank you!Looks as if my thoughts were heading in the right direction...
...I love everything about your plan!
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I was hoping you were going this way loved where the chain guard was when you first flipped the bike*Laughs hysterically* Yes!
Thank you! Yes it will.
Thank you, I appreciate it.
The main reasons I went for a tapered fit are: Firstly, if you see the measurements of the original parts (post #6), I could not simply make them cilindrical in the lathe. The only diameter overlap is around 27mm, but then I would have a very small contact surface if you know what I mean.
(Let me know if you want a visual representation of my explanation, happy to help).
The second reason is, that conical pressed fittings are incredibly tight. I wanted the sprockets to be able to take the newtonmeter punishment.
That is not a bad idea...! Thanks!
Pictures below: Can you see where I'm going with this?
Build title: Chainz is plural
I pressed the parts together with loctite 601 and a line of fine grit. Checked if it still turns without wobbling. If loctite doesnt do the trick, I will weld it.
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There will be a seatpost welded on this spot, so the chain will rotate close to the seat.
So I wanted to remove the bottom bracket bearing and shaft so I could clean and prepare for paint.
But the plastic teeth were dry and instantly broke off...
Then the next option is fire:
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I got it out, need to carefully clean the bb threads.
Mattie your thinking to much againI would be scared of having two sets of rotating teeth in this areaView attachment 255742
Mattie your thinking to much again