Thanks everyone for the advice!
We just got back late last night, and had an unbelievably amazing experience. Our place in the Bywater was the perfect proximity to everything, and still relatively quiet at night. It also felt safe, but I suppose I could see that someone who wasn't street smart might have an issue(?) Anyway, we rode bikes around the city every single day, from early morning until 9pm-3am-ish at night. Loved everything about the place, the architecture, food, people, history, music, art, etc, it was absolutely bursting with life. We can't wait to return!
As for bikes, they are everywhere! By far the most bike-able city in the US that I've ever been to. It's as flat as can be, and nothing is too far away. It could use some more bike infrastructure, but that goes for every US city. Most drivers are aware of cyclists. Some roads are bad, but fine if you're paying attention. We were only in a car twice, to get from and to the airport, other than that it was two wheels all day every day. Most bikes are junk, like our airbnb loaners (basic coaster brake balloners), but they easily get the job done. I did spot a early 50's Monark mens bike with a double springer and deep fenders, and a handful of other old timers, they are all pretty well worn but they were being used and that's cool in my book.
If you like to travel, my suggestion is to go there! Just stay away in the heat of the summer. We had flawless temps in the 70's to low 80's every day. Ahh, I'm already getting nostalgic