want to add a chain tensioner to Cranbrook

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Location
Clinton, Maryland USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have an almost new Huffy Cranbrook. I'm having difficulty keeping the rear wheel axle from slipping forward in the dropouts. Sometimes when I'm trying to pull a wheelie, sometimes when I'm just pedaling hard. I'm ~193 lbs.

After the axle has slipped a little then it's, understandably I guess, prone to the chain slipping off the sprockets. Maybe from excessive looseness in the chain or because the rear sprocket isn't aligned well with the front. A couple of days ago my chain came off while I was pedaling hard coming out of a left turn and I took a spill, got skinned up a little on the pavement.

I've found some chain tensioners on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/BICYCLE-BIKE-CH...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c6e7d1a6)that work well on my son's 20" BMX-style bike, but the dropouts on it face the rear.

On the Cranbrook the dropouts face the front. Should these work on it? (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290576126752&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
 
In my experiance...

Star washers are NOT up to the task.

They only just flatten out and are about a usless waste of space on a rear axle.
 
You need grease on your threads, a good washer, and a good ring spanner to get correct torque on the nuts. no washers on inside of axle!also check your cones are locked off!
 
JOScatRATrod said:
You need grease on your threads, a good washer, and a good ring spanner to get correct torque on the nuts. no washers on inside of axle!also check your cones are locked off!
Agreed on the cones. If the nut locking the cones in place are not tight, the cone may move inward. Not only does that place undue stress on the bearings, but allows the outer nuts to become loose by default. I imagine you can get the nuts torqued down with a basic wrench though. I use one every day and none of my wheels slip. But I would suggest the serrated washers over serrated nuts, unless they are the ones where the built in washer can spin independently. You need that nut to turn without turning the washer to get it to really dig in.
 
clamdigger said:
consider Wald 318 rear serrated axle washers , they are thick, the hole is a nominal 3/8 " to 10 mm, o d - 23 mm. one of the sponsors here - Pork Chop BMX sells them

Thanks for this tip, I found them on ebay. I now have one of those under each axle nut:

Cranbrook5_serrated-axle-washer.jpg


JOScatRATrod said:
You need grease on your threads, a good washer, and a good ring spanner to get correct torque on the nuts. no washers on inside of axle!also check your cones are locked off!

Thanks, I removed all the star washers including those inside the frame when I installed the serrated washers.

What is the correct amount of torque for these nuts? I have tightened them more than I had them before, but if I can determine the correct amount I'll get a torque wrench and use that.
 
yegbert said:
What is the correct amount of torque for these nuts? I have tightened them more than I had them before, but if I can determine the correct amount I'll get a torque wrench and use that.
I just crank on 'em and go :lol: do they really need a certain torque?
 
Back
Top