(WBO) Bhuzzard

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The clamps that come with the kit are very boring, so I bought a VW exhaust clamp to use instead. The holes are just a little too close together but I should be able to make them work.

Here's the lame clamps from the kit...
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Here's the VW clamp...
J10320-0_4.jpg

I've got to leave for a gig in Chattanooga today so I'll use the down time to soak the clamps in vinegar to strip the gold zinc off of them.


.
Does the vinegar work good for removing the zinc coating?
 
Yes, it will take it down to raw metal.
Here's a thread that has other suggestions as well.
Does it ever, I never got to thank you for that suggestion during BO9, saved me a lot of sanding on bolts.
Here's a motorized Higgins of similar vintage that I ran into at the same swap meet I bought my WBO bike at, thought it may be inspirational, not that you need inspiration.
 
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Does it ever, I never got to thank you for that suggestion during BO9, saved me a lot of sanding on bolts.
Here's a motorized Higgins of similar vintage that I ran into at the same swap meet I bought my WBO bike at, thought it may be inspirational, not that you need inspiration.
You're welcome for the tip.:)
I had forgotten about that bike. I remember liking it when you posted it the first time. I love the football looking tank (I wonder if it had one on the other side also?). I hope that mine turns out half as cool as that one!
 
Measure once, cut twice. :13:

The sprocket that came with the kit would not fit over the Morrow hub so the center hole had to be enlarged. I measured the hub and determined that a 2" hole should be a nice fit. Without free access to a machine shop, I decided that the best way to go about it was with a hole saw. With the hub opening already in the sprocket, it was necessary to weld in a bridge for the center drill.
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Cutting the sprocket was easy. I'm now wondering how well this soft steel will hold up with a chain wearing on it.

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Everything turned out just as I had planned until I removed the brake arm and dust cover from the hub and discovered that there is a flange on the hub that I didn't allow for. :blackeye:

I had to borrow the hole saw, so depending on if I can get another one 2 1/8" or not, I might just use a metal rasp and grind it out the rest of the way. At least I know that it'll work if I do it over with another saw.
 
Okay, I'm back on track. After closer inspection, the hole in the sprocket only needed to be enlarged another 1/16" so I used a rasp and a file to open it up.
I put it all together to see what I'm up against with the chain line and it turned out to be very close to working as is. The chain is against the chain stay but not by very much. I'm wondering about possibly notching out the chain stay instead of using the tensioner. Has any one else tried this?
I also discovered that the chain is too short. :( The kit came from an individual that tried to install it and gave up, so I'm thinking that maybe he took some links out of the chain before I got it. No matter what the reason is, I've got to find some more chain. :banghead:

It was hard to get a picture showing the chain line, but here it is...
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Come on get to the motor mock up , cant wait to see that part , I have thought about doing one of those kits

As you can see, I did roughly mount the engine. I'll try to get some pics of that soon.
 
Did you see that tool someone here made to dimple tubes?
Vise grips with a tooth welded into one of the jaws.
Was pretty slick. Couldn't find the link tho...:(

Carl.
 
Because I entered this build-off so suddenly, I didn't have a plan going into it. I had to quickly think of a name and I haven't really liked it very much. So, today I spent some time correcting that.

I had been playing around with some variations of the Whizzer name because this bike is a poor man's Whizzer. While bouncing some ideas with my co-worker and friend Dan, he threw out the suggestion 'Buzzard'. I liked it! So I drew up a logo loosely based on the original Whizzer logo and kept the 'H' for good measure.

This bike is now officially a Bhuzzard!


BHUZZARDLOGO_zpse809baf1.jpg
 
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Nice work with the logo.
Have you thought about doing a skateboard wheel chain tensioner? It would look pretty cool.
I'm wondering if I even need a chain tensioner if I can clear the frame. It seems that the main reason for having it is to route the chain past the frame where it typically hits it.

Maybe I'm missing the point, but does anyone have a good reason for using it?
 
Just spitballin' but maybe...
adjustment for when the chain and gears break in...

Carl.
 

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