I used to race on tubulars, aka sew ups. Rode on them for about 20 years. Yours look like cyclocross tires. Not smooth riding at all. Wait until you put some road tread on and you will find out about smooth.
We always glued them on. No tape. I used to prep them for new bikes and other racers when I worked the a race bike shop. But really racers were expected to learn how to do their own. There are solvents that will remove the old glue. The wrong glues are much easier to remove. Name brand glues like Clement were the best. Tubasti (tube nasty) wasn't as sticky. There is a 3M product that was acceptable and a lot cheaper. Similar to what the auto industry uses to attach interiors to steel car bodies. A version of contact adhesive. Weldwood contact adhesive was used by cheapskates. Sold in quart cans that would last forever or until you spilled it. That stuff works great on counter tops and other smooth surfaces but the backing tape on sewups isn't very smooth. I don't think I would race crits using it. Rolling a tire in a race isn't good. Race bikes used to get pre-race inspections for properly glued tires, then they changed the rules so riders were held responsible and faced suspensions if they rolled a tire in a race. A ruptured tube of glue in a tool box was a bit of a disaster so we never kept the glue near tools. Most glues are best applied like contact adhesives: put glue on both surfaces, smooth it out, let dry til not sticky to the touch, then lift on to the rim, don't slide them on. Some models needed pre-stretching to make it possible to get them on without sliding. Another method is to put them on the rim without glue, then use a skinny glue applicator and lift the tire bit by bit, put the glue in and work your way around the wheel. it's easy to make a mess and that's the sign of a newb. You will need some solvent to clean any stray glue off the rim braking surface. A small dab on a rag and only wipe the rim clean, not the tire.
Long ago tires were listed in ounces. 7 ounce was a light tire. In the 1970s, they were listed in grams. 290 grams was medium weight, 230 grams was light. 190 grams were super light. Tires were made with cotton casings or nylon or silk. Of course the silk tires were the most expensive, lightest, smoothest, etc. Some would brag about using "Egyptian" cotton. Whoopie do. More urban myths that many athletes subscribe to.
Rim weight was a factor too. A popular rim was the Fiamme brand. Yellow (aka Ergal) were about 230 grams, red about 300 grams. There were some crazy light rims like the Hi-E rims. Tubular rims needed less metal , ie, no sidewalls sticking up, so they are usually pretty light.
Most better sewups had latex inner tubes. Lighter but they leak out faster. Needed more air daily. The Japanese nylon casing tires had latex tubes so they were preferred for training. Most racers had race wheels and training wheels.
Race spokes weren't 14g or 2.0mm like is so common today. The lightest I used were 15/17g double butted.
Tubulars can be far lighter than clinchers. Less rotating mass means faster acceleration and climbing up hills. One advantage of tubulars is you can ride on a flat with much more control than clinchers. Flat clinchers flop around and will want to come off the rim and jam up. Decently glued on tubulars stay put.
New tires were put on old rims and partially inflated to age in a dark place. Inflating them off a rim causes them to shrink and invert and makes it all that much harder to install.
There aren't nearly as many brands and models available now. During the bike boom cheap tires were $10 and the best were $30. Now they can cost as much as $160 each.
