What makes a strong frame?

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I kinda asked this already but I didn't quite get my answer. What makes a strong frame?. I want to build a FGFS bike, I found a 1 inch trick fork so the cruiser frames are back on the drawing board. Is a big box cantilever frame strong enough for tricking?. If not what makes a suitable frame for such. I also looked for older mtb frames per others advice and didn't find one for a reasonable price. I don't wanna dump a grand since I'm not sure I'll keep doing this or not. Thanks.
 
Heck no big box lights are not for tricks....you want to get a big BMX bike, 26" o.m. flyer! :)
 
I just feel like old cruisers are gonna be to heavy for your needs. Strong, maybe for a short time. Even true fgfs bikes are made from strong 4130 cromo with welded seems not brass braze ons like my '47 cwc. If you want to do it and build a cool ass rat jumper then do it. I jump off 4 foot drps on my 26" ns capital but would be to scared to do it with my cwc bmxed out.
 
Strong materials make strong frames. Wider diameter tubes make stronger frames, up to a certain point. Gussets in high stress areas (eg, where the headtube meets to downtube) make stronger frames. Quality welds or a beefy lugset make strong frames.

You have other concerns, though, for your build.... I think it will help if the frame is relatively lighter, and geometry is huge if you're trying to do tricks. I'd imagine most of those tricks would be hard to perform with long chainstays, which most cruisers and old-school mtb frames have...
 
I'm liking these answers. Thanks for the recommendations and foresight. I'm starting to get the picture. That NS Capital is one of the coolest bikes I've ever seen. The SE is a good deal too. Thanks guys! I'll either keep an eye out for an oversized bmx, dirt jumper or just buy a fgfs bike.
 
Spinach of course.
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I don't think a lot of the old cruisers were really all that strong. I remember my buddies and I breaking old cantilever frames when we tried to turn our old muscle bikes into BMX bikes. Now the BMX bikes that followed were hell for stout. Just take a look at all the gusseting on an old Mongoose or Race Inc.

I would be looking at old rigid mountain bikes myself. If you look around a little you should be able to find one for cheap.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4339551417.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/4336286912.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/4305809374.html
These are just a few I dug up on my local craigslist.
 
There are mathematical formulas and such to calculate stress on a given design. In theory I would imagine that a lugged diamond frame would be the stronger design. That said some bikes (road bikes especially) are built with fairly thin tubing because they have to be light weight and super strength isn't required. To be honest most cruisers (even prewar) aren't that strong. The tubing tends to be fairly thick, but the joints are crude. Lets also not forget thin spot welded dropouts, and usually a pretty weak connection where the seat stays meet the seat tube. If you had to have a cruiser style frames a schwinn heavy duti, worksman or one of those double top tube diamond frame emorys might be worth checking out. Thats just my opinion though.
 
Structurally a triangle is strongest.
4130-40, 531 Renolds, and 6061 aluminum seem to be the best tubing for bicycles.
Outer and inner diameters of tubing, bigger can be better but not always...
I have a GT Zaskar, made of large diameter aluminum, stiff and harsh are the only ways to describe the ride.
My Dyno cruiser is mild steel, normal sized tubing, it rides soft and supple!
Like was mentioned, geometry is everything for tricks, cruisers don't lend themselves to abrupt changes in altitude....
 
It's sounding more and more like FGFS or old mtb are the way to go. I'll just save up. Thanks for keeping me from breaking something guys :p. I knocked my teeth out as a kid and busted a helmet doing some crap. I learned to ask first lol.
 

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