Which Brooks saddle?
- Thread starter twister
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I bought a B33, which is one of the biggest ones they have. I tried it on my Basman but couldn't get it to work right with the odd seat post on that bike so I didn't get much ride time on it. Here it is on the new frame but it's not rideable yet. The biggest problem with this seat is that if you're on the heavier side, you have to tighten the seat clamp to where you think it's going to break off and then tighten some more. Also look at the B190 although it doesn't fit some bikes because of the double-decker springs in back. You might also look for a Lepper Primus saddle. Hard to get in the states but a real comfy ride. A friend has one on his Ruff Tango.
I've been riding on a B135 for the past 500 miles or so.
In a lot of ways I really like it. Were I to do it again though I think I would either go with a B67
or a B190.
Probably a B67 for the kind of riding I do. The B67 lacks the secondary springs and is lighter while the B190 is wider. Those secondary springs do make it cushy, but they are heavy and get in the way of things like a regular saddlebag/toolkit and can also interfere with things on your rack.
I bought the B135 thinking the B190 would just be too wide and would bump against the back of my thighs when pedaling, but now I suspect that given the pronounced "T" shape of Brooks saddles that that wouldn't be the case. You don't see it so much in the pictures, but they really do flare out abruptly. They also are quite slick, which seems unusual at first. Once you start putting in some miles on one though you discover that Brooks really does know something about making comfortable saddles and it's on the longer distances where they really shine.
In a lot of ways I really like it. Were I to do it again though I think I would either go with a B67
or a B190.
Probably a B67 for the kind of riding I do. The B67 lacks the secondary springs and is lighter while the B190 is wider. Those secondary springs do make it cushy, but they are heavy and get in the way of things like a regular saddlebag/toolkit and can also interfere with things on your rack.
I bought the B135 thinking the B190 would just be too wide and would bump against the back of my thighs when pedaling, but now I suspect that given the pronounced "T" shape of Brooks saddles that that wouldn't be the case. You don't see it so much in the pictures, but they really do flare out abruptly. They also are quite slick, which seems unusual at first. Once you start putting in some miles on one though you discover that Brooks really does know something about making comfortable saddles and it's on the longer distances where they really shine.
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I've got a pile of Brooks saddles, and have used many over the years. The key is to match the saddle to the bike and your saddle height in relation to the bars.
Springs can be comfy but they also weigh a ton and are noisy in most cases. I have a B133 and it's the only sprung Brooks I'm currently rocking. Got it mostly b/c it looks cool with the braided springs, and the width goes nicely with the extremely upright position of my truck-- the bars are much higher than the saddle. For bikes with a saddle about the same height as the bar, I go with a b17; the Flyer is the sprung model with the same width/length body as the b17. If you've got flipped bars (or just low bars for any reason) and the saddle is higher than the bars, I'd suggest something more narrow and you might not want to mess with springs.
My wife has a B67s on her bike, and the dang thing is so squeaky that it makes me wanna cry when we ride together. She doesn't seem to mind, though.
Springs can be comfy but they also weigh a ton and are noisy in most cases. I have a B133 and it's the only sprung Brooks I'm currently rocking. Got it mostly b/c it looks cool with the braided springs, and the width goes nicely with the extremely upright position of my truck-- the bars are much higher than the saddle. For bikes with a saddle about the same height as the bar, I go with a b17; the Flyer is the sprung model with the same width/length body as the b17. If you've got flipped bars (or just low bars for any reason) and the saddle is higher than the bars, I'd suggest something more narrow and you might not want to mess with springs.
My wife has a B67s on her bike, and the dang thing is so squeaky that it makes me wanna cry when we ride together. She doesn't seem to mind, though.
As said above, Alot depends on your bike. Handlebars higher than saddle- wider sprung models. Handlebars even or below Saddle use a B17 or Flyer.
It also depends on your tush and sit bones. What works for some on a bike, wont' work for others.
It also depends on your tush and sit bones. What works for some on a bike, wont' work for others.
Ive bought a few of these Gyes seats from http://www.crowcycleco.com/ very good price quality close to brooks
MazdaFlyer
Like “RadioFlyer”
I have B17's and B67's. After putting some miles on them they are both good. Sorta depends on the look you are after. The ones with an "S" suffix are women specific as they are shorter.
On a related note does anyone replace the leather on these? I have one in good shape but without the leather part.
Marc
Marc
The secret to preventing spray from killing your Brooks from underneath is fenders. Fenders, and a shower cap or plastic bag from the store as a cover when you park outside, even if you don't expect rain. (Meteorologists agree: uncovered Brooks saddles are the cause of most thunderstorms.)
Seriousness, beyond fenders and a cover in the rain, you'll want to use proofide (sparingly!) to keep your Brooks from drying out. Old Brooks may need to be punched out and laced up to keep the skirts in, and judicious use of the tensioning screw goes a long way, too. Sad fact is, though, the new Brooks aren't as good as the old ones, but that's not Brooks's fault. Current farming practices have cattle growing so fast, the leather never thickens properly, so the saddles are made from thinner, more malleable stuff than they used to. Brooks responded with a "select" version of some of their top-sellers a few years back. The Select Brooks is made from the leather of organically-raised Swedish cows (it sounds like I'm kidding, but I am not) which is thicker, and more robust. Consequently, the prices for the Select series saddles are thicker and more robust, too.
Seriousness, beyond fenders and a cover in the rain, you'll want to use proofide (sparingly!) to keep your Brooks from drying out. Old Brooks may need to be punched out and laced up to keep the skirts in, and judicious use of the tensioning screw goes a long way, too. Sad fact is, though, the new Brooks aren't as good as the old ones, but that's not Brooks's fault. Current farming practices have cattle growing so fast, the leather never thickens properly, so the saddles are made from thinner, more malleable stuff than they used to. Brooks responded with a "select" version of some of their top-sellers a few years back. The Select Brooks is made from the leather of organically-raised Swedish cows (it sounds like I'm kidding, but I am not) which is thicker, and more robust. Consequently, the prices for the Select series saddles are thicker and more robust, too.
I always appreciate a dissenting opinion... sometimes the Groupthink needs a challenge.
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In ride in the Puget Sound area and we've been known to have a little bit of rain at times. There's no rear fender on my regular bike, but I do have a rack that shields the seat from most of the spray. I also liberally smear silicone grease on the bottom of it, which doesn't seem to have harmed it any.
So far I have yet to get my seat really wet, but I do keep it under cover when I'm not riding.
So far I have yet to get my seat really wet, but I do keep it under cover when I'm not riding.
I bought my B33 from Amazon and Brooks was none too happy when I needed warranty service. You're supposed to take it back to the place you bought it, which has to be an authorized dealer and they aren't.
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