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Mingo

Mingo

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So, this is my Schwinn. She's a classy one, but I'm aiming to make her downright sexy. First, I'm going to paint her green. a Shiny candy green. But I'm wondering about the head badge.

It's riveted on and already a little loose from previous owners spray painting the bike. If I take it off, how can I do so without bending it up, and how can I secure it back on after the paint dries? I've never had to used rivets before and when I have, they were inconsequential.
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Then when you want to put it back on, use screws from a music cassette :wink:
 
Those look like screws on there already. I would spray it with wd-40, rustbomb, etc. to get the rust loosened and get a very small screw driver. Push hard on it while unscrewing and try not to strip them.
And here's a good paint idea its what I used for my Jaguar
http://www.schwinnbikes.com/schwinn-lif ... ette+speed
And here's my Schwinn, I used the same green Testors too.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=43937
 
@kickback, I looked closer and you're right, they are screws. However it looks like they may have been tapped in with a hammer. I'll wrestle with them in the morning. I love your paint job, it's exactly what I had in mind. I appreciate the links!

@schwinnray, that's a great idea

@wildcat, I thought of that also, but it doesn't lay flat and if I can take it off, I can slap some JB Weld on the back before I put it back on. Make it sit nice a flush.

I love this forum already.
 
if you have a dremmel and a steady hand, you can grind a small slot into the screws and use a small screwdriver. I use tape to protect the badge
 
I've done the dremel thing also. Use the cutting wheel to reslot the screws. Worst case scenario you twist the heads off of the screws. Then the badge will be off while you drill the holes out. I forget what size bit I used, I think it was 3/32. Take your time, get it drilled then wiggle the bit just a little to get some clearance and the new screws should go in without too much trouble. Take your time with those too, you may have to screw them in and out a little at a time to cut the new threads. But let's hope the old screws come right out. Good luck.
 
Also, you may not want to jb weld it back on. Just in case you ever have to take it off again. But once it's off, use something a smaller diameter than the headtube to bend the badge around. Then when you put it back on the bike it will fit nice and tight. I had a 40's bfgoodrich badge in my back pocket and forgot about it and sat down and flattened it. I bent it around a steerer tube and it went back on the bike even better than before.
 
Thanks, Ozzmo. Good tip about bending the badge to get it snug. You can't see it in the picture but the screws were curled a hair from being tapped in. I was able to snip the heads right off, then with a needle nose I spun the threads out.

Paint is on hold till I get all the parts together. I want to dry run with the new parts on mostly because of the kickstand. I plan on going with some mean ape hangers, but I'm afraid the extra height on the front end will cause problems with the built in kickstand and I may need to opt for a taller one. I don't mind taking a cutoff wheel to it, just so long as I don't have a fresh couple coats of paint on her.
 
I might be confused, but you apparently want ape-hanger handlebars. These won't change the actual ground clearance of the bike, as they just sit on top of the bike. In fact, since 26" wheels are 26" wheels, you could even swap your wheelset to 26x2.125 and likely keep the stand. Even a standard springer fork shouldn't mess you up. I've put a 26" bent springer on a bike which lowered it in the front a bit, but I didn't have to cut the stand, as well as run the same bike with a standard springer and the stand was good too. Still a dry-run is always good if you have that option. Sometimes the look of the bike assembled will inspire colors, ideas, modifications, and designs.
 
I'm not so much worried about the clearance on the front end. I'm worried the extra height from the apes will cause the bike to lean too far when it's on its factory kick stand and I may have to replace the welded one for a longer, aftermarket kickstand.
 
Yea, Jaysmo. With a little bit of finesse and WD40, I was able ot twist them out with a needle nose pliers. I've been kind of busy with work, so I'll be stripping it down this weekend and painting real soon. I'm going to try someone else's idea and try screws from an old cassette tape to reattach it; if I can find one in my seemingly bottomless closet.

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