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I wouldn't mind finding a shock ease, that's a cool fork for sure!


The truss rods are half finished. The top half is bent and aligned with the bracket. It only took a little tweaking to get the bracket right. Now that I have this much set in place, I can move my attention to the bottom flanges to mate with the axle.

The rods are actually steel tubing made for lamps. The ends were threaded for lamp parts so I utilized what was already there. The only draw back is that it has a 27tpi straight pipe thread which turns out to be a very uncommon size for nuts and bolts. So far I haven't been able to find any acorn nuts to cap the ends with. I have plenty of these jam nuts and it looks good enough like it is, so I'm not concerned.

100_8734_zpsu2nf6rwe.jpg
 
The Renaissance Man said:
I wouldn't mind finding a shock ease, that's a cool fork for sure!


The truss rods are half finished. The top half is bent and aligned with the bracket. It only took a little tweaking to get the bracket right. Now that I have this much set in place, I can move my attention to the bottom flanges to mate with the axle.

The rods are actually steel tubing made for lamps. The ends were threaded for lamp parts so I utilized what was already there. The only draw back is that it has a 27tpi straight pipe thread which turns out to be a very uncommon size for nuts and bolts. So far I haven't been able to find any acorn nuts to cap the ends with. I have plenty of these jam nuts and it looks good enough like it is, so I'm not concerned.

100_8734_zpsu2nf6rwe.jpg
Click to expand...
I think but I'm not sure that T.V. Coaxial cable has the same thread ends the splitter that was outside the house for our sat tv had caps to cover the ends that was not used. You might be able to find something like that .
 
You should be able to find some lamp finials that would look cool. (I think that's what they call those fancy threaded nibs that hold the shade on a lamp...)

Carl.
 
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GuitarlCarl said:
You should be able to find some lamp finials that would look cool. (I think that's what they call those fancy threaded nibs that hold the shade on a lamp...)

Carl.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that same exact thing. Just google finial and you'll see lots to choose from from mild to wild. Here's a basic one.

3997245-420


Build is looking sweet!

Edit: After going down the lamp finial rabbit hole a little further I spotted this.

00132.jpg


21 cents each from mylampparts.com
 
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lookin good RM.:thumbsup:
Glad to see that I am not the only one has to deal with crankarm clearance and chain scrapes...
I remembered when I purchased the first engine...The seller said you have to have some sort of mechanical mind,as there are no instructions. he couldn't figure it out.
The engine mounting and conections are the easy part...
It's the rest,that you have to think outside the box on.:grin:
 
Thanks everyone for the props and suggestions.

I had already been looking into the finials (and actually have a couple of knurled brass ones that would work) but I really want to keep the look of something that would have been original 60+ years ago. That's why i'm looking for acorn nuts. I've even found some already that are brass but I'm still holding out for steel if I can find it. Like I said earlier, I'm not that concerned about it, knowing that there are some options at this point and it looks pretty good as is.
 
That's a possibility Luke, thanks. I can always just make more truss rods and thread them 3/8-24 also, but it's really a minor thing at this point.

Right now I'm thinking about how to best jump my latest hurdle.

I started looking at the rear fender chain clearance and mounting points. This frame is a middle weight and made for narrow fenders and the fenders that I plan to use don't play nice with the mounting braces. I was thinking first about dimpling the sides of the rear fender but the more I looked, I believe that it would still need to move forward even if it mounted flush against the brace.

So at this point, I'm looking at removing the brace and making another one to properly locate the fender. I may have to change the bottom brace as well. It bugs me if fenders aren't aligned with the wheels. I got into that with Southern Flyer and had to relocate the fork dropouts to be satisfied.

Here's the problem area...
100_8739_zpsz2uswlrq.jpg
 
Cutting the inside curve of that bracket to match the fender will be tedious, but a die grinder and hand filing seem to be the tools I'd use.
Would that raise the fender too far?

Carl.
 
Yeah Carl I considered that also, but it would just be a guess to get it to the right location. I can just cut it out completely, make it or something else fit the fender, and then mount it back to the frame to insure that it's where it needs to be.
 
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The Renaissance Man said:
I believe that it would still need to move forward even if it mounted flush against the brace.
100_8739_zpsz2uswlrq.jpg
Click to expand...

I am not sure what you mean by move forward? Because of the fender attachment braces? I can't picture your dilemma. It would look great if you cut into the fender(instead of denting) the reverse image of the frame brace indents.
 
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