Pilot . Tank Take Two... Tanks

Discussion in 'BUILD OFF 14 - CLASS 1 - BUILD JOURNALS' started by SkyknightJohn, May 1, 2019.

  1. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Starting with a 1950 CWC built Pilot, badged as Seattle Sporting Goods Co.

    11CEBB3F-ABAD-4FC9-820B-A0332DB6D185.jpeg E8D4DE49-5EA4-4D64-9C19-37E212F1CA33.jpeg

    Many of the spokes are broken or nearly so, and I have a wheelset I’ve wanted to use for awhile.

    When I first got it back in December, I did some test fitting: S-A 5 speed drum brake rear and a disc front.
    9D434C85-FBFE-487D-9403-304463BC5E71.jpeg 3B186B6D-5F95-4E2B-8C46-EFC578073658.jpeg
    (it’s back to bare frame now, and I’ve not worked on it since,)

    Using a fork I have on hand that is 1” disc, a bit of a rarity. The original fork had a repair,
    3A3BB357-44CA-494E-9779-15851BABCCCE.jpeg
    Probably fine, but I wanted to use the disc brake wheel anyway.

    I’ve tried the custom scratch builds before and had a hard time finishing. So,

    I’m planning a simple refurb for this. It’s a Pilot, I’m a Pilot, aviation theme seems appropriate.
     
  2. Skipton

    Skipton Come out and ride with The Chicago TailDraggers!

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    So Much COOL here!
     
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  3. GuitarlCarl

    GuitarlCarl

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    Sweet! There's some cool aftermarket stuff out there for aviation themes...

    Carl.
     
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  4. G-Matt

    G-Matt

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    Nice start I’ve had few forks welded and they held up . But then again they where Tig welded by a professional.
    Throw that BMX fork on it and Klunk that bad boy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  5. OddJob

    OddJob

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    Diggin' your start, John! That wheel set combo really gives that old frame a great stance.
    RaT oN~!
     
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  6. rickpaulos

    rickpaulos

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    Wow, that head badge would make a great t/sweat shirt design.
     
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  7. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Tank arrived!

    B205DE25-CF90-4A45-B018-95B2F26BAA35.jpeg 101FEE0F-8681-4CB3-BF16-EF594904331A.jpeg

    Looks good, but it’s a little too tall about 2/3rds of the way back. I wonder if maybe it’s for a Schwinn Hornet, and how hard it might be to mod. :39:
     
  8. RustyGold

    RustyGold

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    I think you need one that looks more like this (with the flare on the back of the tank)...

    20171230_171549_resized.jpg

    Yours doesn't look Schwinn...maybe prewar Monark or early 50s Huffman?

    Jason
     
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  9. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Probably. I’ve had a tough time finding one that was for sure Straight Bar CWC. This one came up and had the right measurements, ~almost,~
    Wouldn’t be worth it if it wasn’t difficult.
    I don’t suppose that one is available?? ;)
     
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  10. OddJob

    OddJob

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    I'd try to tweak the red one you have. Maybe 'relieve' the top by making a cut right under the top bar, and then squeezing the sides at that point (by hand should work) to see if it folds in and down just enough. Well, the theory ^ sounds good anyway! ;)
     
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  11. RustyGold

    RustyGold

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    Just an image I pulled off Google. I've recently gotten a tank (a 3 gill, for a curved intermediate bar) and other related parts from a very knowledgeable CWC guy off thecabe, goes by szathmarig there, he may be able to hook you up :thumbsup:

    (Coincidentally, I'll be running a Pilot badge on mine as well :))
     
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  12. LukeTheJoker

    LukeTheJoker Moderator

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  13. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    From another thread:
    ... so, I’m building and Aviation-Themed Bomber. I guess I need nose art!
     
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  14. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    I stuck this in the how-to section, but since most of the forum’s attention is here, I’ll ask.
    EE70125D-AD87-4E97-A4D7-9C5A0CF8A57D.jpeg
    The shim/insert fits for a 5/8” post. Measures without the insert the seat tube is 13/16”. There are lots of layback posts @ 13/16” to fit modern seats available.

    Has anybody had luck removing the insert?

    I have the 5/8” post and could fab up a top for my seat from another seat post, just curious. Initial tinkering made it feel pretty fixed. (the seat collar came off no prob.)
     
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  15. OddJob

    OddJob

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    I've never tried to remove the seat post shim. 5/8" is a common size for old bikes. I usually want / have to use a laid back post on my builds to get myself stretched out a bit.

    Consequently, I have 3-4 5/8" straight posts in my stash that I'd be willing to part with one if you need it, John.
     
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  16. sdframe

    sdframe

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    Great stance and wonderful mechanical upgrades front and rear. I understand the look you're going after, but the bike would look just a nice without a tank.
     
  17. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Thanks OddJob. I do have the original post, just figured at 6’2” I’d probably want it laid back. Hoped that I’d be able to size up at the same time.

    Thanks! It may end up that way, or with wood, or I’ll figure something out. Design elements still “up in the air.”
    :21:
     
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  18. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Small steps:
    Cleaned up the threads for the axle adjustments.
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    Parts box coming today, might get to a partial test assembly tomorrow. Still thinking on tank and seat issues...
     
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  19. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Bottom Bracket Moderization:

    Using the Truvativ converter.
    C491E7F2-A488-40DB-94A8-A315913F45D4.jpeg

    Popped out the old bearing cups.
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    Cleaned the BB shell. The fenders made me think the original color was mint green. Maybe they were, but the frame appears to have been red. (evidence at the seat clamp concurs.)
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    Needed to grind that little weld ridge so the adaptor cups would press in all the way.
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    Side with the screw heads is the non-drive side (RH Threads). Pressed the other cup in first, then aligned the screws, tightened part way with the screws, but didn’t trust them, though they’re ChroMoly, to pull it all the way.
    BDEA9A68-B645-4DE3-9A3A-3283AC6E6130.jpeg

    Finished with a press.
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    ¡Et Viola! A modern crankset on a vintage frame.
    FBE152C0-9884-43EA-A518-914842DB68D2.jpeg
     
  20. SkyknightJohn

    SkyknightJohn

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    Next, I cleaned up the headset bearings and parts
    5C0565C4-D1E8-4073-AA77-213E043F62A7.jpeg

    Weird, the top nut was too small for any of my quill stems to fit through. Used a top nut from another headset and worked just fine.

    Here’s an early mock up. The seat is just sitting on there-the angle will change- and Those may not be the final handlebars.
    F527F27E-B397-4C51-BB5A-5D85313BCA37.jpeg 9851A252-6136-4082-9790-E10C459960CC.jpeg
     

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