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Specialized was pure serendipity. I had planned to pick up the Schwinn then scanned C/L shortly before we left.
And the Crossroads had just been listed 10 min before. Called the guy right up and said I'd take it today. When I picked it up he said,"There's about 5 people who wanted this bike wishing you were a no show". Pretty cool he was original owner, only selling cause he got a sweet deal on a former Trek rental bike. Who needs 2 bikes, right?
 
Been a while. This bike was part of a sweet swap with a local bike enthusiast.
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I can justify it as I did not increase my bike inventory, Also I think it's cool. :thumbsup:

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No CW so it's AMF then?
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Not a lot of room in the Ashtabula fork middleweight only. :confused:
No existing holes for head badge ID either.
Any info appreciated!
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/forums/builds.21/
 
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Not exactly "fresh finds", more like freshly unearthed from the deepest recesses of my horde during my clean up.
1957 Schwinn middleweight 3 speed. I will call it a phantom because stainless fenders.
Story it came with was it was backed over by a car! Frame, fork, sprocket, rear rack and rear fender usable. Bought as part of a package deal, I don't remember if it came with wheels or not - but lookit that kickstand.
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I wonder if you still have the rear rack. It looked pretty good. I think you could make that bike into a keeper that could be passed down for years to come.
 
Helped with a couple of rummage sales and was given this Monark bike of unknown year. My late brother picked this bike up at the AnnArbor swap. He never got around to working on it. Needs tires and TLC. Will start a build thread. I don't know anything about the Bendix 2 speed!
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crazy front brake!
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This bike has a lot of drag like the bearings are dry or the coaster brake is stuck...
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I can't make out the model name...
Maybe "Americana" ?
 
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That's probably a rare Monark. Everybody started building cantilever frames in ~'57 because Schwinn's patent ran out... Monark was done by '58. It looks like that has a Monark style mono BB to chain stay junction, so it isn't a latter rebadged Huffy.

A last year Monark with a whole new frame design... very cool!
 
This is not a fresh find more of a stale one...
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Picked this frame up years ago at a swap and painted it. Went to build it and seat post was stuck. Unable to free it after much banging and pb blaster it sat in a corner till today. Cut the battered pedal shaft / crank arm off and cant pound it in deeper, so I am going to weld a seat post on it, too nice to leave it setting. BB tag almost fell off with all the shenanagans, cool paint underneath.
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I believe it is Monark made, Web search turned up a couple cool examples...

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How would you even do that? Lay the tire out on some blacktop on a hot sunny day for a few hours?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I did that in the 70s. I was living in a small town, no Schwinn parts. Lots of detergent and stubbornness. It worked, rode it for a few years. It was no harder to put on than some modern tubeless tires. Getting it off might be easier than mounting it, but the tire and tube will probably be kaput.
 
Helped with a couple of rummage sales and was given this Monark bike of unknown year. My late brother picked this bike up at the AnnArbor swap. He never got around to working on it. Needs tires and TLC. Will start a build thread. I don't know anything about the Bendix 2 speed!
View attachment 208143
crazy front brake!
View attachment 208145
This bike has a lot of drag like the bearings are dry or the coaster brake is stuck...
View attachment 208147

View attachment 208148View attachment 208149View attachment 208150
I can't make out the model name...
Maybe "Americana" ?
I have a Bendix two speed that I rebuilt and have rebuilt them for others. I had to buy two junkers on eBay for missing parts. They didn’t make it very long because they came out with the kickback, which worked much better than their manual 2 speed. It’s valuable, especially with the cable, clamps and shifter. The brake is weak, the brake has a long back push before it engages, the brake has horrible modulation, it’s hard to adjust it to shift, blows up if it’s run on trails and overall doesn’t work very well. If you rebuild it, you will probably think you screwed up because they are so hard to adjust. You will wonder if it’s right. What I do after I rebuild one is to not attach the cable. I hand pedal it in a stand and move the tiny shifting rod in and out by hand. If it shifts, which it always has for me like that, then I know that I just need to fiddle with the adjustment. It takes micro turns of the adjuster to get it right and can easily go out of adjustment from cable stretch, or clamp movement. Their pretty easy to rebuild. Be careful with the tiny shifting rod with the micro fine threads. It’s easy to strip the threads reassembling and adjusting. One of my buddies started to rebuild his, stripped the shifting rod, found a NOS one on eBay and started to rebuild it again. When he rode my bicycle and another one I rebuild he lost enthusiasm and didn’t finish. He said he was excited to get it working but when he rode the bikes and saw how bad they were he gave up. They work but to me their just a novelty that a lot of people who don’t have one think is cool. I suppose they are cool, vintage fine American machining.
 
I have a Bendix two speed that I rebuilt and have rebuilt them for others. I had to buy two junkers on eBay for missing parts. They didn’t make it very long because they came out with the kickback, which worked much better than their manual 2 speed. It’s valuable, especially with the cable, clamps and shifter. The brake is weak, the brake has a long back push before it engages, the brake has horrible modulation, it’s hard to adjust it to shift, blows up if it’s run on trails and overall doesn’t work very well. If you rebuild it, you will probably think you screwed up because they are so hard to adjust. You will wonder if it’s right. What I do after I rebuild one is to not attach the cable. I hand pedal it in a stand and move the tiny shifting rod in and out by hand. If it shifts, which it always has for me like that, then I know that I just need to fiddle with the adjustment. It takes micro turns of the adjuster to get it right and can easily go out of adjustment from cable stretch, or clamp movement. Their pretty easy to rebuild. Be careful with the tiny shifting rod with the micro fine threads. It’s easy to strip the threads reassembling and adjusting. One of my buddies started to rebuild his, stripped the shifting rod, found a NOS one on eBay and started to rebuild it again. When he rode my bicycle and another one I rebuild he lost enthusiasm and didn’t finish. He said he was excited to get it working but when he rode the bikes and saw how bad they were he gave up. They work but to me their just a novelty that a lot of people who don’t have one think is cool. I suppose they are cool, vintage fine American machining.
Thanks US.
I think I may have to adjust the shifter, it works but low gear is noisy, I think it was quieter before I removed the wheel so I'm sure I messed with the adjustment.
 
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