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I thought I was the only one who built bikes in the living room 😁bike looks great
Lol. It’s the only place I have to right now. My second apartment build. My first build off bike was built while I was remodeling my house to sell in Kansas. It was a nice distraction from tedious work retiring and old home. But now I’m in an apartment and bored. At least the wife is cool with me doing what I do.
 
Lol. It’s the only place I have to right now. My second apartment build. My first build off bike was built while I was remodeling my house to sell in Kansas. It was a nice distraction from tedious work retiring and old home. But now I’m in an apartment and bored. At least the wife is cool with me doing what I do.
I'm up to three in the apartment since joining this site you guys have seen every room in my bit the bathroom 😂 kids rooms mostly daughter has to explain to her friends why theres a bike in there every time they come over.
 
This bike is cool now and will still be cool (if not cooler) 10 years from now
Wow those are really kind words. Thank you very much! 🙏🏻 I am so glad I found this frame. And parts have been falling in place. I’ve thought about selling this one, but it would be hard to part with. I am exited about adding a few things to the bike, just under the gun now to complete the three speed part of this build. I have been aiming to give this bike a feel that it was built long ago, and I hope I am achieving that to some extent. From 1959 to this very decade, this bike has parts from. Thank you for checking in on it!
 
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The bike has a very cohesive look to it, everything works together well. Reminds me of a transition bike between a Sting-Ray and a low rider.

Looking good! 🍻
Thank you much! It appears I naturally go for that cross breed style of low rider and muscle bike. I’ve built two 26” bikes with a lowered springer, and now two with the regular height. I’ve never been able to afford a Sting Ray, so I chose to build my own with similar stylings. A more grown up version I guess.
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Fed Ex delivered my 26”x2.125” wheel master steel wheel today. I picked one with a 12 gage spoke, for a beefy look. I will bring my 333 hub to work tomorrow and use a pin gage set to find the correct diameter. I may need to drill out the holes on the hub to accept a 12 gage spoke. Then off to get laced with the new rim. I may pick up a front wheel now that I know the tires I have match up with the rim.
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Exquisite work, and tape skill @Shrunken_Head_Pedaler. Beautiful tank and material usage. Your post reminded/inspired me of my father's custom tape stash he used for intricate paint jobs. Found his 1/8'' rolls which still work great. It was cut in the late 70's. I was just a shorty then. My build too requires detail painting.
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Heavy gauge spokes standout. Use a high speed drill for cleaner holes:thumbsup:
 
Exquisite work, and tape skill @Shrunken_Head_Pedaler. Beautiful tank and material usage. Your post reminded/inspired me of my father's custom tape stash he used for intricate paint jobs. Found his 1/8'' rolls which still work great. It was cut in the late 70's. I was just a shorty then. My build too requires detail painting.
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Heavy gauge spokes standout. Use a high speed drill for cleaner holes:thumbsup:
Thank you for the kind words! It took most of my tape roll to get it right. Your father’s tape stash is awesome! Good luck with your painting! It is always a crap shoot for me.
 
Love the scallop tape work! The tank is looking amazing!!

I see a problem with your fork and brake though. You have your brake mounted to the stationary part of the fork, while the wheel is mounted to the moving springer section. That means the every time you springer is under load, it will be out of allignement with the brakes. Depending on the springiness of the bump, the brake pads could even damage the tires.
If you mount the brake to the front struts similar to what you did for the sissy brake, then it could work.

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Love the scallop tape work! The tank is looking amazing!!

I see a problem with your fork and brake though. You have your brake mounted to the stationary part of the fork, while the wheel is mounted to the moving springer section. That means the every time you springer is under load, it will be out of allignement with the brakes. Depending on the springiness of the bump, the brake pads could even damage the tires.
If you mount the brake to the front struts similar to what you did for the sissy brake, then it could work.
Love the scallop tape work! The tank is looking amazing!!

I see a problem with your fork and brake though. You have your brake mounted to the stationary part of the fork, while the wheel is mounted to the moving springer section. That means the every time you springer is under load, it will be out of allignement with the brakes. Depending on the springiness of the bump, the brake pads could even damage the tires.
If you mount the brake to the front struts similar to what you did for the sissy brake, then it could work.

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Thank you for the kind words! I have been thinking about the front brake. Typically, I don’t even run a front brake, but there was a hole so I stuck it in there! 😄Most of the action in the springer, results in horizontal movement and the vertical movement is minimal. I think I can find a sweet spot for the pads to ride. I believe the only time I have ever pulled a front brake was on my freestyle bike as a kid. My first build off bike, I attached a bell to the brake lever. Mostly for looks.
 
I disassembled the new wheel. Time to drill out the spoke holes to accept the 12 gage spokes. Then the decision to find someone to re-thread the spokes, assemble and true the wheel, or go ahead and buy the tool and the 12 gage thread die and do most of the work myself. I may have better luck doing the work myself than finding someone with that die needed. Just trying not to spend another 40 bucks for another set of spokes. Still a month from deadline but definitely in a pinch. Can anyone direct me to a spoke calculator to see what length I need? Any help is appreciated!
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It's been too many years since I last had to do that math and laced a wheel. I'll let others chime in. I'm sure you have already done some googling around too. I would suggest checking out any tips on the old Sheldon Brown site.
 
@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler
Use a ruler to measure the following in mm. If you have a vernier caliper great, if not a good ruler will suffice.
Use thick paper such as a mail flyer for cutting out around the axles where you can't stretch across a ruler easily and then measure the distance between the paper for the flange diameter listed below.

Find the spoke length of anyone of the spokes you removed.
How to
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Find the spoke flange diameter of the original hub. The diameter is measured center of the spoke holes, not the outside of the flange.
How to
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Lastly, find the flange width of the original hub. The measurement points are taken center of both flanges which is around several mm thick.
How to.
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I know the wheel is a low profile ISO: 559 hoop, and I already have all the Shimano 3 speed hub data.

I can calculate the rim's ERD with the measurement you provide and tell you if the spokes can be reused without re-threading. You'll need to know this info for spoke calc anyway. You're not making a offset wheel which makes calculating easier.

Gluck
 
I can’t believe I re-laced wheels as a kid without any calipers or instruments. I just started swapping spokes till I found something that fit.

I used the Sheldon Brown calculator when I ordered my spokes, but they’re not here yet, so we’ll see how I did.

I paid $38 with tax and shipping for 36 stainless spokes and chrome brass nipples. I just stuck with 14 gauge and I will not increase the spokes unless I find my self snapping them when I ride.

I don’t think that will ever happen because I keep my wheels tight.
 
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