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kingfish254 said:
It's been too many years since I last had to do that math and laced a wheel. I'll let others chime in. I'm sure you have already done some googling around too. I would suggest checking out any tips on the old Sheldon Brown site.
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I’m a bit nervous about it. Did some googling and checking out a bike shop nearby. Hopefully solving the issue over the weekend.
 
hamqqea said:
@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler
Use a ruler to measure the following in mm. If you have a vernier caliper great, if not a good ruler will suffice.
Use thick paper such as a mail flyer for cutting out around the axles where you can't stretch across a ruler easily and then measure the distance between the paper for the flange diameter listed below.

Find the spoke length of anyone of the spokes you removed.
How to
View attachment 202279

Find the spoke flange diameter of the original hub. The diameter is measured center of the spoke holes, not the outside of the flange.
How to
View attachment 202280

Lastly, find the flange width of the original hub. The measurement points are taken center of both flanges which is around several mm thick.
How to.
View attachment 202281

I know the wheel is a low profile ISO: 559 hoop, and I already have all the Shimano 3 speed hub data.

I can calculate the rim's ERD with the measurement you provide and tell you if the spokes can be reused without re-threading. You'll need to know this info for spoke calc anyway. You're not making a offset wheel which makes calculating easier.

Gluck
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Thank you much @hamqqea for this tutorial! I will use these steps. Unfortunately I left my calipers at work today, (after I tried to quit my job and they wouldn’t let me 😂) so I may have to wait till Monday. Or I’ll go grab them tomorrow and maybe work a couple extra hours. Thanks again! Super helpful! 💪🏻
 
Ulu said:
Bravo on the scallop tank paint.!

It was a problem with motorcycles to put the brake on the traveling fork because when you hit the brake it locks up your suspension.

If you’re on a bumpy surface that can get real exciting.
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Thanks for the kudos on the tank! Yeah I image it would get harry when the suspension fails due to your brake work. I would rather smash the rear brake and let the thing slide out from under me that to take a ride over the handlebars.
 
Perfect day to paint the tank! Maybe? I’m shooting a test piece of metal and partially taped. See when I should pull tape. May need thinner paint, who knows. Ive had this trusty and easy to use Badger air brush for years. It has been used for two bike paint jobs and many other projects. Just typically use a larger vessel.
5FE4A9B8-FEF3-40BE-B503-D70B9F49190B.jpeg
 
I’ve painted many a thing in a cold garage using the cardboard box and some heat lamps.

I still have a tiny little Binks airbrush from the 1970s and I will have to go take it out.

You shot One-shot with a reducer? I’ve never bought any before so I have no idea what it’s like to work with. I figured it was straight up thick sign paint.
 
Ulu said:
I’ve painted many a thing in a cold garage using the cardboard box and some heat lamps.

I still have a tiny little Binks airbrush from the 1970s and I will have to go take it out.

You shot One-shot with a reducer? I’ve never bought any before so I have no idea what it’s like to work with. I figured it was straight up thick sign paint.
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That’s cool. Never get rid of an old brush if it still works. I have some for fine work, but this one I use, you just twist the head to adjust spray volume. There is a reducer for one shot, but I risked it with at Testors reducer. I gave it several days to see if it mixed well together. Seems to be ok. I did not use any hardener so it will take a few days to cure most likely. I was worried about pulling paint off when pulling the tape. It will most likely get a flat or satin clear added. The 1Shot is thick sign paint, but it is sprayable.
 

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