TRADITIONAL In the “Nick of Time Procrastination Maggot”

I can’t find the handlebars I want to use. I might have to use these.
I’m soaking parts, busting rust.
The mystery frame. It’s English, it has a Bayless Wiley BB, cranks are stamped Made in England and I think it’s a Willam’s chainring but there is no Williams trademark stamp on it. It’s a Williams look alike. All the nuts and bolts are Witworthless. It has 5 small holes drilled in the frame by previous owners. I filled them. It’s almost rust free but has three layers of paint on it that I’m stripping. There is a missing grease fitting on the down tube near the head tube. You can see where it was in the photo. I’ll replace that. I don’t think it’s a missing steering damper, they were usually on the top and on the opposite side.
It’s most likely a BSA but BSA didn’t keep any records of its serial numbers and they weren’t consecutive. Serial number is M 70114. You can see the serial number on the seat tube clamp in the above photo. It’s impossible to date an old BSA bicycle. The 5 bolt crank arm attachment for the chainring Is supposed to be before 1930 but who knows if the crank is original. It’s old enough that it’s got a modified clip style headset. Same headset as the clip but designed to work without a clip. So it could even be 1940s - early 50s? I hope to have the frame and fork stripped tomorrow. It was probably an English club bicycle and originally was either a coaster brake three speed with a front drum brake or had Phillips clamp on brakes. There is no brake drilling on the frame or fork. Some of the entry level club bicycles were designed to double as a commuter. I have another 1936 high end BSA club bicycle and there is no comparison to the quality. The 1936 has a clip style headset. The English club scene didn’t last for very long after WWII. It makes me think that this frame might be from the early 1950s. Some of the parts that came with it are 1910 to 1920, but are they original? Since it doesn’t have a chainring with BSA stamped as a design in it it could be from the 1910s as early BSAs didn’t have the BSA stamped chainring. It also has flat pump mounts that are older, but I’m not sure when they went to the fancier braze ones. My 1936 has fancy pump braze ones, but it’s an upper level bike.

kingfish254 said:

I like those bars you are thinking about using.
It caught me off guard for a moment not seeing seatstays on the frame, but I remembered how some of these frames removable ones. Interesting detective work going on too.

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Yeah I took it all apart as the grease was like a combo of bees wax and semi dried epoxy. The crank was pretty sticky and almost stuck. I really didn’t want to disassemble it but it’s not that hard to do. It’s easier to sand the frame with the seat stays removed. So, I reluctantly took it apart. If the crank turned well I probably would have thrown parts on it without stripping paint.

Got most of the 3 layers of paint off. Good enough-perfect. It’s got wipe on etching primer on it. It has to dry until tomorrow. First nice day I’ll paint it. I won’t bother putting up my spray booth, I’ll shoot it in the open. I’m thinking blue, which was the original color. Or maybe satin black.

us56456712 said:

Got most of the 3 layers of paint off. Good enough-perfect. It’s got wipe on etching primer on it. It has to dry until tomorrow. First nice day I’ll paint it. I won’t bother putting up my spray booth, I’ll shoot it in the open. I’m thinking blue, which was the original color. Or maybe satin black.View attachment 272263

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The parts are in good shape with most of the nickel still there, except on the drive side crank arm. I once had an old Raleigh with a gallows seat post so that could be original. The inch pitch is baffling, I thought these were only used on early English track bikes. Perhaps it was a factory option?

I found several cans of Spray Max 2K Epoxy Primer in our closet. It’s supposed to be used in 6 months, mine are 4 years old. It sputtered and sprayed out some strings and blobs. I finished spraying the frame and fork and then there was thunder. I moved the parts into the garage to dry, just in the nick of time. I should have waited for better weather but it’s a procrastination special and the weather hasn’t been any good any way. What the heck, good enough-perfect. It’s supposed to be 70s F with calm winds tomorrow. I’ll paint a bad top coat on then. Problem is I’d like it blue like the original. I do have 2 cans of 4 year old 2K red top coat. I might have to use that up as it’s now or never.

After clean up the Williams logo showed up on the chainring. What is an old school, heavy steel track chainring doing on this bike? It look like it’s seldom been used, minimal tooth wear.

The Williams makers mark is also on the crank arms.
Unfortunately I also found this mark on the crank arms.
That’s right they they are for 1/2 inch pedals. I can’t use my Raleigh 9/16 pedals, Boho. Who ever heard of a Cottered crank taking 1/2 inch pedals, other than early American bikes like some Schwinn New World, Superior, or Paramounts. I got a frankenmess. I have a pedal set that will work. I could also use adapters. I have a few sets of adapters in my junk.

I’m going with pedal adapters cause I have them. I procrastinated so long there’s no time to order anything. Gotta use what I have. I had a heck of a time finding the second adapter. One was where it was supposed to be. I had to dump out boxes of junk to find its mate.

I found the bars I want to try. The clamp area is a little ovalized, slightly bent a the right near the clamp, so they may not get tight in the stem. I’ll have to try it.

It’s painted with the first coat. It’s 30 year old Duplicolor metallic blue. I might leave it instead of fine sanding and putting on a final coat. It’s the wrong blue with the metallic. I’m tired of procrastinating so it might be good enough.

Most of these old BSA bicycles were black.

I have some satin black. I just might forget about blue. A light sanding of the blue and then black, done.

Oh well, back to blue. It’s close to the original color. It’s a krp procrastination quick good enough job. It’s 81 degrees and dead calm. Good to spray.

It’s been 80 to 83 degrees here for a few days but spray paint refuses to dry. It’s the high humidity. Rustolium and Duplicolor are supposed to dry to the touch in 20 minutes but 5 days later it is still sticky. I painted a final coat over the sticky mess. It hasn’t lifted in 6 hours but the top coat is still tacky. I’m going to let it sit and bake in the sun in my truck cab for a few days. If it’s still tacky I’ll shoot a thin layer of 2K clear over it. Can’t hurt it as it’s already fouled up beyond all recognition.