MBBO Won’t finish: Savage B.O.B.

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CRASH

CRASH

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Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
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Location
Visalia, CA
Savage B.O.B. (B!tch!n’ Orange Barracuda)
This is my only “before” picture as it was sold to me. It doesn’t show it well the picture, but it’s in really rough shape. Let’s see what I can do about that.

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Here’s what I know so far: It will be orange.
 
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A little something different for me… a pre-built wheel. A I was researching my direction, I found a solution in this. I will do some work to customize it, but this is a good solution and saves me time. It’s got 36 10 gauge spokes, so they are super thick and add to a “muscle” look.

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That wheel is burly!! I love the bike, very cool. And the ‘itching orange paint scheme is going to look amazing on it. Even without those goofy Temu grips. 😆
 
This bike will have one of the drag forks I built and sold. Unfortunately I built them all to fit the 4” head tube of a Huffy Rail or Schwinn Sting-Ray. The Barracuda’s head tube is just under 6” tall. So…

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Luckily this is an all stainless set, so I don’t have to worry about messing up fresh chrome.

But I did mess up the stainless with some errant slips of the angle grinder, which I’ll have to address.
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luckily I had an extra steer tube. So I cut off the the end, and I’ll get the longer one welded on.
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I’m converting this bike to a 5-speed with a rear disc brake. So the rear triangle needs more room. And do you see how ridiculously big that lock nut is? I don’t need that kind of space, so I switched it out to a thinner one. The wheel will be disassembled and reassembled later, and I’ll address the change in dish when I do that.
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So I broke out my handy dandy spreading tool.
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Once it was cranked open to fit, I had to fix the change in angle for the dropouts.
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Better
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I’ll have to check alignment again after I dimple the chain stays to get a fatter tire in there. Plus I’ll have to check frame alignment. That’s coming up.

But for now the hub fits.
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This is my first real Barracuda. I built the King ‘Cuda 26” clone (see my build page) but that isn’t an original.

The actual Barracuda has some mysteries I have to solve. Such as… why are there 3 chain guard mounting holes, when only the top hole puts the guard in the right position? And why are there two holes in the bottom bracket? I have no idea. I’m consulting two Barracuda experts I know for answers. I’ll let you know. But the OCD in me wants me to close them up if they aren’t needed. Not sure if I will.

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Pulled apart this Eagle. Going to clean it up and spruce it up.
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Some original hardware is getting a much needed Evaporust bath. Not sure what I’ll be using, but most of it was too rusty, and clouds the design process.
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Anything that had grease was just dirty and solid gunk, so I’ll begin my bearing and race restoration with a kerosene bath. What do you use as a strong degreaser? I’ve been using kerosene for years, but it stinks up the garage bad.
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CRASH said:
Pulled apart this Eagle. Going to clean it up and spruce it up.
View attachment 278769

Some original hardware is getting a much needed Evaporust bath. Not sure what I’ll be using, but most of it was too rusty, and clouds the design process.
View attachment 278780

Anything that had grease was just dirty and solid gunk, so I’ll begin my bearing and race restoration with a kerosene bath. What do you use as a strong degreaser? I’ve been using kerosene for years, but it stinks up the garage bad.
View attachment 278781
Click to expand...
The construction company I used to work for use a commercial cleaner called "Grease Gone". Sold on Carolina Chemical Manufacturing website for $81 /5 gals. It is food safe but you should wear eye and hand protection because it will remove your fingerprints too.
 
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CRASH said:
What do you use as a strong degreaser?
Click to expand...

I use an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and Palmolive for 90% of my cleaning and degreasing. I also keep a container of evaporust that can sit inside the ultrasonic bath.

Beyond that I keep 2 spray bottles. One with isopropyl alcohol and the other with a very strong solution of Palmolive and water

For the really stubborn stuff I use low odor mineral spirits.

The spray bottles are amazing. Great for cleaning grease off my hands even.
 
Today I got back the forks with the long steer tube. And it is long!
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Which worried me because what would the fork tubes look like as they came through the top plate? But the original top plate wasn’t going to work. I knew that. So I worked a couple design modifications with my laser guy, pulling the center tube opening back, and knocking off the corners since they only seem to get in the way and hit the shifter.
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Cut that out, smoothed it out and brought it home.

I confirmed my fears. The fork tubes don’t clear the top plate with the full headset set up.
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So… now what? I’m going to have to think about this. The top plate is meant to grab the fork legs and hold them for rigidity. Without it, it may be a wobblin’ goblin.
 
The Renaissance Man said:
I see endless ways to customize the top plate/fork issue. But if you want it to look like the last picture then extending the length is the obvious solution.

I like the orange!
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I haven't welded anything yet. Once I come up with a solution, my brain generally turns off. What ideas do you have?
 

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